It obviously depends on the light. I have 5 or 6 modded lights[V54] that are 4 or 5 years old and their use throughout their life has been at least 80% Turbo and they still run well. :+1:
Good night,been a very long day,up at 5:30 for my morning hike!
No, as I’m not using a 21700. I’ve just got a 3D printer and want to use it.
My most powerful iron seems to have a horrible tip that won’t melt hot butter, so I’m not certain whether I’ll be able to remove the MCPCB for sanding, but the reports and photos of its underside have convinced me that the heat transfer should be checked and improved if possible.
It’s good that people are enjoying the light just fine in its stock configuration and interesting that wolfdog effectively “ran-in” his light until the popping sounds went away ;), but this “wood-grain” issue will worry me incessantly unless I check mine out.
I won’t receive my light for another week or more, but I did receive my Lii-500 charger and Lii-50A 26650 cell (Black) Monday, so I’m good to go.
This cell is not as good as some of the others being mentioned, but it measured 5430mAh after it’s first cycle and showed an internal resistance of 27mOhm, which are typical numbers for this cell in this charger. I paid $4.02 for it during the AliExpress Anniversary Sale, so I can always buy a “better” cell if I decide it’s necessary.
In 18 days, I got a decent charger and seemingly decent 26650 battery for US$19.96 with free shipping, so I’m pleased.
With this light, I’m happy to run a few decivolts less than some of you. I’ll have slightly less output and let others find out how durable this emitter really is 
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Pop the MCPCB up off the shelf first so that it’s not still in contact with the rest of the body - makes it a lot easier, because it won’t be transferring heat to the body.
My MCPCB was actually pretty smooth, but I gave it a hit anyway to make it shiny.
Banggood have said they don’t have the gasket, but they’re passing it onto the team to see if it’s worth getting on their store. I’ve 3D printed a replacement, but I don’t think it’ll be appropriate. Oh well, that’ll teach me for not taking my time on cutting it (it snapped quite a bit off).
Those are great cells, assuming they are the same as the older black Liitokala. Those cells pulled about 17A-18A in my 70.2 L6.
Lately there was one guy who’s black 50A’s were catching on fire while charging. I don’t know if they were fake cells or maybe it was something to do what is charger. Maybe Liitokala switched to a different black cell? IDK what’s up with them, but I’d be wary of buying them from a store your not confident in.
Just wondering if silicone can be used to replace the gasket?
Maybe… I’ll check it out. It looks like I haven’t centred it right when putting it back together anyway (weird second “ring” happening), so I’ll pop it open and check it it tomorrow night. Zzzzz.
Banggood refunded me. Now I have a free GT mini with a half working switch and a free FT03 with a cracked glass.
This is minor, but I would have followed the path of Thrunite[TN42/Cat V6, ect.] and I am sure other manufacturers[Acebeam T27 I had for a short time]
The light in the switch is ON when the light is OFF! Only thing I can think of is that it is to locate the light. Serves no purpose to me. When my single cell lights are OFF, the tail switched is loosened primarily for accidental activation while driving[light in holster/seat belt has activated before] and on the trail before use and idle time.
Regardless of how much parasitic drain FT03 has, now the tail cap is absolutely loosened while the light is not in use.
ALL my single cell lights have the batteries in them. My 3 and 4 cell [battery carrier lights]lights have the batteries out until I am ready to use.
It would be better served if it was ON, even if it was not used as a LVI[Low Voltage Indicator], just to be able to find the switch, if need be.
Not an issue because I had no problems finding the switch when using it, just my preference and makes more sense to be lit when light is on like the aforementioned torches.
Riffing off Woldog, I too wish I could turn off the switch light by partially unscrewing the tail cap. I do this with my all my lights when I am not using them to 1) prevent them from being accidentally turned on and 2) prevent parasitic draw. My unit won’t disconnect power until the tail cap comes all the way off. I know there is a way to program the light to have it off, but that is, relatively speaking, a pain to do each time you want to use the light.
I do like having the green switch light on when I am using it as it helps me locate the light more easily. The light also distinguishes the rubber switch from the rubber cover over the charging hole. They have similar tactile feels.
I'll take full credit for having the switch LED ON when the light is OFF. I built this into Narsil/NarsilM intentionally from day one basically, been that way for several years now, made popular by the Q8 of course. It's a "locator LED", and that's it purpose.
To me it's a great purpose - I have literally a dozen lights on my nightstand with all different color switch and light pipe LED's.
If you don't like it - too bad (
), you can disable the LED completely thru the configuration settings.
Makes more sense to me this way - I always thought the "other way" was the wrong way. Just say'n... 
I'd like to remind everyone I wrote the NarsilM firmware in this light, some of the tech based on TK's work, some based on JohnnyC, some based on others, maybe a lot on my work. The UI evolved from many here on BLF with suggestions, mostly from the massive Q8 thread over many months in the waiting process. Certainly some things were my ideas, or least functions/features I felt strong about, the locator LED functionality being one of them perhaps. I'm not 100% happy with it of course, and a few improvements I would have liked to have made in NarsilM got into Anduril, which is cool with me. I haven't had the time to make the improvements I'd like to do, but it seems to be surviving the test of time and the literally 1000's of users who seem to like it.
Mine disconnects after about a 6th of a turn. I like the LED light statying on. sometimes it can be hard to find the switch in the dark without it
I would expect you to promote it and back it up because you designed it! 
We can agree to disagree. This is NOT an EDC light that sits on my night stand. It is a mid ranged search light.
Like I said, to me it is not a major issue.It is a great light as I indicated in my posts.
It just makes more sense to me the way it used in the other lights that I mentioned. 
Yea, we can agree to disagree because just because a light is big, doesn't mean I don't want to find it in the dark. I definitely keep large high powered lights on my nightstand, up to ~35K lumens in one modded light with NarsilM and a switch LED (16x of XHP50's):
Personally I leave the locator LED’s on with my lights as well, got a bunch of them staring at me right now.
The locator LED uses so little power it really doesn’t effect much. If I won’t be using the light for very long periods (for example the lights I keep in my cars), I will do a physical lockout with the battery tube.
Otherwise I just charge up all the lights every 6 months or so. This is a good idea anyways since a lot of them get a little use here and there.
Measured 0.1 mA standby current with my cheap multimeter (switch light active)
Disregard that piece of Junk Bronze light in back and far right!! That was 7 years ago and I did not know any better, T-Mart days!
I have numerous lights scattered throughout the house. Bedroom/Bathroom/under lamp shades[Light on Low or ML instead of the lamp!]ect.
Here are the majority of my lights on my Hutch. Modified Search lights straight ahead[Exception FT03] and Four of my primary EDC lights to the left.!
Here is another thing important to me. I do NOT believe in Shelf Queens. ALL my lights are in a rotation and used. If I start getting too many I sell them. There are about another Dozen lights scattered throughout the house that get used.To me it is a waste if they are not used. I USE my lights, I do not collect them. For those that do, that is fine.
I believe they are made to be used, NOT looked at!
This is my first light with Nasril UI so i am still working it out. The majority of my lights are mechanical tail cap lights except for like my S70 and L6 and a few other brand name lights (most of them i no longer use).
I like the UI its great but my girlfriend was playing with this light and some how put into mode select mode with only low and high and it took me legit 30 mins to fix it lol. I only just learnt Biscotti a few months ago sigh took me months to get my BLF A6 out of the 4 mode setting lol. I think I’ll leave it in ramping mode and that’s that. I mean not even i can get ramping wrong (I hope) lol.
You shouldn’t have to do this every time you use it. Once it is de-ativated is stays deativated, even with the electrical connection broken (tailcap off).
I do not understand that. I barely have to unscrew mine and it disconnects,I estimate 1/10th of a turn.
Almost sounds like your threads are NOT anodized?
Thinking that by mistake you may have screwed wrong end of body tube[non anodized] to the tail cap. So I tried to attach the body tube in reverse w/ the Non anodized threads in the tail instead of the head. It won’t work.
See if your tail cap threads are anodized? Possibly they were not, but I doubt. I have exhausted all ideas except some electrical problem that I would not know.