GB BLF LuckySun D80-SE Need long tubes? -3/3/16

Maybe this will help, shows up as virtually the same color, be difficult to tell really without actually putting it on the head with the tail cap on it.

Its 2 bucks guys. Just order the thing if you want it…

Is there a coupon for it? IT"S $2.72... closer to 3 Bucks.

No, original price was 2.99.

Crazy just got one of mine today and it swallowed my 30q with a few mm to spare can’t believe people are having a hard time with protected cells but then again I don’t own any…

I’m hoping the boogie monster didn’t get my other one. It supposedly shipped two days before this one but I had tracking on this one only. Not gonna go without from now on. I hate not knowing.

Very unique little light supposed to be 5a but I’m not sure seems a bit greenish need to compare it with my a6’s I suppose.

Thanks for the opportunity krono! :smiley:

I think, my comment got lost:

The 2900s can lash out >7A before protection kicks in.
These are the cells from this thread: Discharge Capacity Tests on Soshine 18650 2900mAh Protected, cells courtesy of Louis Huang of T-mart. NCR-PF/Soshine graph added
They hold capacity even up to 5A continuous load!

Just ordered one tube, thank you.

I still do not quite understand how does this way work. So the heat from the emitter will soften the dome? And then what to do?

this flashlight has enough room for DD FET driver?

In post #2665 I listed a DD FET driver as part of my mods. I used a 17 mm driver - it's a little loose but can be secured fine with the retaining ring. I believe the stock driver is 19 mm, but not 100% sure. For height there's no problem - DD FET drivers are a low profile.

Thanks, i found your mod

Tell me pls, where I Can buy this powerful driver? :wink:

With de-domed XP-G2 S2 will it be better thrower?

Ahhh - I build up my own from OSHPark bare PCB's and reflow the parts myself, write the firmware to my likings, and program the MCU (I used an Attiny25 in this case). I dunno where you are located but Richard (RMM) at has the equivalent and lots of choices in firmware. Also may be out of stock, but the BLF A6 driver from is also similar.

For throw, of course you could de-dome the U4 1C and get at or near double the kcd. XP-G2's are a bit more finicky - first to get properly centered and don't know of any centering piece you can buy for that to fit a D80 reflector, then second: get lucky to get decent amount of amps from the XP-G2, but if you do, then yes: better throw than a de-domed U4 1C in theory.

This is a view of the driver used in my D80:

The stock driver is 20mm. How did you mount a 17mm? Not hardly support on the 20mm shelf?

I have a BLF A6DD driver to mod into the D80, but not enough shelf support for it as is. I confirm the retaining ring will secure and make contact properly. But not enough support for 17mm board IMO withot some sort of mod.

I replaced the stock driver with a MTN 20DD from MTN Electronics. It’s single sided so no problem there. It needed to be sanded down a little bit to 19mm. I removed the positive contact pad from the original driver and soldered it onto the new one. I found the new driver a little thicker than the original one so I sanded the retaining ring making it thinner to compensate for this. Just don’t take too much off the thread side because there isn’t much there to engage the threads to start with. It works great.

I may be confused (do that a lot lately), but pretty sure the 17mm driver just barely catches the edge but site a little lower, and the retaining ring does a good job to lock it down. I added the solder on the ground ring as shown above to ensure good contact.

Definitely took the pics of the exact driver I used in the D80, and didn't do anything else special to mount it. I tossed the brass button in favor of the wired spring. I'll check it again later to confirm. We could be talking fractions of an mm difference in diameter of drivers to work or not work. I don't have any BLF A6 drivers handy to check the dimensions.

Yep - I originally was gonna do the same thing onchiman did - sand down a 20 mm driver, so pretty sure it is made for a 19 mm driver.

Original driver is 18.9 mm dia.

But I am also using a 17 mm DD+1 driver (built from an MTN pcb).
It fits fine, but the pcb ground rings do not make contact. Three solder pads on the spring side, similar to TomE’s photo above does the job.

EDIT: Photo added:

Yeh, i was eyeballing it..hadn't removed the original D80 driver yet. So I didn't actually place it on the shelf as wires in way. Calipers confirm the 17mm contact ring will work alright.

I got mine today - it will not turn on with any combination of batteries… any idea?

does not turn on shunting the switch either.

Justin: oh boy, I'd take a first look at the LED: be sure the wires are connected good, no grounding. Unscrew the bezel and get out the lens and reflector.

Here's what I measured, varies from 18.95mm to 19.05mm or so:

Installed with the solder blobs showing a little:

Finally got my D80 5A!

I was pleasantly surprised by it’s small size and great finish. Does not look like a $21 light for sure. Will do some tests tonight.

Thanks everyone for this light.