GB Interest ///OFFICIALLY CLOSED 11/8 @ 9pm CST/Maxtoch M24 Sniper with XP-L HI /// 250K lux @ 4.3 Amps!!!

The amperage is measured at the emitter on these lights, it is 3.4 to 3.6 at the emitter. (with stock driver)

I am not the one who did the measurements, the figures came from Richard (RMM)

Maybe Dale will chime in and explain how it is all done? Or TomE if he knows?

Yeah, the tail amperage won’t be all that high because it’s 8.4V to a Buck driver which steps the current down to the emitters Vf. So the protected cells with high capacity are a good choice for this light, they won’t have a high drain and the capacity will keep your run time as good as it can get.

Seems like my thought process was discombobulated. :Sp

I stand corrected.

So protected cells will last longer than unprotected ?? (even if protection kicks in too soon)

The protection circuit is there for safety. It will turn the cell off if overdischarged or overcharged. It will also shut it down if too much current is drawn from it. But in a light like this one, the current draw will be well within the circuit’s design (usually around 6-7A, depending of course on which cell and what protection circuit is used).

So really, the reason to use a protected cell is to ensure a cell isn’t discharged too far. Like if one cell is fresh and the other cell is not taking a charge, it keeps the fresh cell from overdischarging the weak one. If you are maintaining your pairings, this is a mute point anyway. Also if someone likes to leave a light tail standing and forgets it, the protection circuit will keep the light from discharging them so far that it hurts them. Safety, that’s what the protection circuit is all about, and as such it does have some limitations. You really don’t see good results from a protected cell with a direct drive FET light, for example.

But for a regulated light, or a Buck driver, these are ideal. (if not ideal, at the very least completely satisfactory)

I'm thinking those 3500 mAh 10A protected cells are the best choice out there now - the ones from MtnE have protection circuitry that has the least overhead/drain. They got more power than we will need for the stock setup, but I'm sure at the very least we will be doin some resistor modding Wink.

If it's 4.3A at the LED, then the draw per cell would be in the neighborhood of 2.4-2.8A I'm guessing. There's some loss's from the buck driver on converting the voltage down from from the 2 cells in series (voltage adds). The most we can get out of the XP-L HI is limited of course, maybe 5A to 7A about for optimum output? Not sure - djozz has data on the XP-L (not HI) here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/27500.

Thanks Dale and Tom, you guys are quick, as I was typing out my best explanation you both answered.

Currecntly i have Samsung 25r, LG HE2, HE4, Sony VTC5 and VTC5A, Panasonic PF and 3400B, Samsung 30Q and LG HG2, Sanyo GE and Samsung 29E they are all NEW
Will test them all and will post out here whats the best for higher current - you see, Olight M3XS UT likes more Panasonic PF or Sanyo GA - by default with fresh batteries it has 2.2 amps tail amps, with Samsung 30Q it has 1-9: 2 amps, same with LG HG2

This light has over-discharge protection build in or did i miss something ?

Yes it has( at least the ordinary version has) but it DOES NOT have RPP( unfortunately, again the default m24s)

P.S

A glimps of the future

Mini M24 Maxtoch Javelot killer :wink:

Photoshop'd or LEGO'd a C8? Surprised

Picture is quite real and i made it several minutes ago :slight_smile:

And here is the happy moment Tom: if someone( like me) wants to make a single battery version of M24 just use Convoy C8 tube: it fits perfectly, threads are the same , both ones

Correct answer is LEGO'd - ok

I received this shipping update - package accepted at ZheJiangShengHangZhouShi GU CUI LU.

I am not sure what did you order since this is your first post?

He ordered through aliexpress and asked me through PM, I don’t think he ever actually posted anything publicly

Ah, but, with a regulated driver you’ll see lower tail amperage for the same emitter amperage because the lower internal resistance in the better cell is more efficient so it allows the driver to pull less current from the cell to maintain the same emitter current. :wink: Higher numbers at the tail are not always better.

I never received any notifications about my light shipped. Probably no big deal. Just sayin.

Rusty Joe, and all of you… David has the tracking numbers and will be sending them to each and every one throughout the day today. :wink:

Which means, of course, they’ve shipped! :slight_smile:

Woohoo!!