GB Interest ///OFFICIALLY CLOSED 11/8 @ 9pm CST/Maxtoch M24 Sniper with XP-L HI /// 250K lux @ 4.3 Amps!!!

Pretty sure Saturday is the 21st. Just sayin.

That depends if you look at this years calendar or not :stuck_out_tongue:

You are right though, so Monday here maybe for the actual shipping?

There’s a Saturday, the 22nd, available in October of next year? That one? :stuck_out_tongue:

They might be able to ship out 24/7/365 in Shenzhen, I don’t know. Busy as they are it would seem feasible.

I know there’s been a lot of talk already re: batteries on this forum, but I’m new to this and it all looks like jibberish to me. Can someone post a link here to a decent battery in the $6-$8 range and a decent charger? I have neither right now.

Sincerely,
a flashlight noob :slight_smile:

Charger:
http://www.illumn.com/batteries-chargers-and-powerpax-carriers/chargers/nitecore-d2-digicharger.html

Batteries (prices low to high):
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_88&product_id=467
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_88&product_id=219

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=540
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_88&product_id=353

These batteries are all considered to be high-discharge batteries. Pulling 4.3 amps, the Maxtoch M24 would probably benefit by using these batteries.

Because you’re a newby, I’d suggest that you purchase the Efest IMR batteries. IMR’s are reported to have a safer chemistry than the other Li-ion cells.

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In any case, you should familiarize yourself with the risks of using Li-ion cells, their pitfalls, and safe practices.

http://www.rechargebatteries.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Li-ion-safety-July-9-2013-Recharge-.pdf

In particular, since you are using these batteries in a multi-cell application (2 x 18650), you should be aware of the following caveats:
- Always use the same type of battery (brand and model). Do not mix and match!
- Be sure that the batteries have the same charge level. Do not mix a fully charged battery with a partially discharged battery!

. . .

EDIT: You might find better values overseas, if you’re willing to wait a month for delivery and to take the risk of potential QA-QC issues.

Thanks for your suggestions (here and on PM)

I’ve decided to go with the LG 18650MJ1 Protected 3500mAh batteries from MTN electronics. Not quite within my price range, but hey… what’s a few extra bucks?

umm… are they shipped yet?
I have the 17th in mind?

Since these are 18650x2 would imagine that load would be <2.5A per cell. Runtime and output with any premium high capacity would be fine with no real benefit running high-discharge cells.

It’s mentioned a few posts up that the new ship date will probably be this weekend or early next week.

I missed the post at first too, as i
was just checking the opening post…. Fingers crossed.

A few extra bucks gets you a tested and known high-quality cell from a very reputable dealer who knows flashlights, chargers, and batteries extremely well so he sells only the best- never any possible junk. And you’re supporting a small US business who is growing and employing other US people which is good for our economy, whereas buying from overseas directly does the USA little good if any. And you’re getting top-grade customer service which you cannot get from most overseas sellers.

A good choice of cells and of where to get them :slight_smile:
Phil

Exc. choice though Wink.

That’s the way I first thought of the situation, when Robo819 posted the tailcap measurement.

But the ampere measurement was taken with both batteries in the tube, 7.4V not 3.7V!

Think of it this way:

7.4V x 4.3A = (2 x 3.7V) x 4.3A = 2 x (3.7V x 4.3A), i.e., both batteries have to put out 4.3A.

The amperage is measured at the emitter on these lights, it is 3.4 to 3.6 at the emitter. (with stock driver)

I am not the one who did the measurements, the figures came from Richard (RMM)

Maybe Dale will chime in and explain how it is all done? Or TomE if he knows?

Yeah, the tail amperage won’t be all that high because it’s 8.4V to a Buck driver which steps the current down to the emitters Vf. So the protected cells with high capacity are a good choice for this light, they won’t have a high drain and the capacity will keep your run time as good as it can get.

Seems like my thought process was discombobulated. :Sp

I stand corrected.

So protected cells will last longer than unprotected ?? (even if protection kicks in too soon)

The protection circuit is there for safety. It will turn the cell off if overdischarged or overcharged. It will also shut it down if too much current is drawn from it. But in a light like this one, the current draw will be well within the circuit’s design (usually around 6-7A, depending of course on which cell and what protection circuit is used).

So really, the reason to use a protected cell is to ensure a cell isn’t discharged too far. Like if one cell is fresh and the other cell is not taking a charge, it keeps the fresh cell from overdischarging the weak one. If you are maintaining your pairings, this is a mute point anyway. Also if someone likes to leave a light tail standing and forgets it, the protection circuit will keep the light from discharging them so far that it hurts them. Safety, that’s what the protection circuit is all about, and as such it does have some limitations. You really don’t see good results from a protected cell with a direct drive FET light, for example.

But for a regulated light, or a Buck driver, these are ideal. (if not ideal, at the very least completely satisfactory)

I'm thinking those 3500 mAh 10A protected cells are the best choice out there now - the ones from MtnE have protection circuitry that has the least overhead/drain. They got more power than we will need for the stock setup, but I'm sure at the very least we will be doin some resistor modding Wink.

If it's 4.3A at the LED, then the draw per cell would be in the neighborhood of 2.4-2.8A I'm guessing. There's some loss's from the buck driver on converting the voltage down from from the 2 cells in series (voltage adds). The most we can get out of the XP-L HI is limited of course, maybe 5A to 7A about for optimum output? Not sure - djozz has data on the XP-L (not HI) here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/27500.

Thanks Dale and Tom, you guys are quick, as I was typing out my best explanation you both answered.