Group Buy-BLF X6-SE OP update-GB over.

Mine just arrived (neutral, in second batch). Only 11 days to ship to UK is pretty good.

Handy little light, well worth $20 - don’t care about the amps - so thanks to kronological for all the hard work.

My only moan is that some idiot put sellotape across the nice box, which rather ruined the presentation (I’ll have to keep this for myself now). :wink:

Or, you could use a hairdryer (or heatgun, if you’re careful) to heat the cellotape and remove it, as others have done. I haven’t received mine yet, and I hope it doesn’t have tape across the top, but if it does, this is what I will be doing.

Or send it to me while I’m here in the tropics. I’ll just leave it on the patio and let the sun gently warm the adhesive. :bigsmile:

I’m far too impatient for that lol. After cutting it neatly to open the box, I went back and just tried to pull it off. Mistake.

Still, if that’s my biggest problem with a purchase, I really ought to get out more. Good idea about the hairdrier, for those with a modicum of patience.

I don’ t say that all flashlights are regulated output, but many are, and what they can do the same brightness with 4.2 volts or 3 volts.
You can find more example in many rewiev, exemple Predator PRO, his output is liear for all 55 minutes, then turn off, no lumen lost for battery discarge.
I could post links to the reviews but I do not know if it’s allowed here.

True that many flashlight have systems ( by time or after attainment of high heat ) that lowers the light, but if after a few minutes if you call turbo it back again, the highlight return, at any voltage with te same intensity.

In X6 will not happen, if we have battery to 50% will have about 60% of light.
This is not to say that it is bad, just do not have this feature.
I thought they had installed a different driver from the standard version for this, but no, it’s not a problem, I have so many other lights not regulated.

This is an argument made about what many have written here, my X6 is not working, so I can’t do test. Maybe today comes the second, after doing tests can tell you my opinion, not just theory.

But flat regulation will only work if the battery can supply the power. As soon as it can’t, it might turn off, or it’ll fall out of regulation, or mode drop to a lower output.

Some examples:


This is quite a good example, the Klarus is regulated. But an 18650 drops in voltage it can’t maintain flat regulation. On 2xLi-ion the higher voltage means the regulation is more stable (although still with step downs).

Few lights can offer falt regulation on MAX output (the heavily driven ones anyhow). Because the batteries just can’t cope to sustain the output. Look here, some high end expensive lights. They all have a massive step down, then they handle regulation differently from that point.

However similar lights on a lower mode (high not turbo). Tend to offer flatter regulation, less heat, but more importantly the batteries are able to offer up the goods over a wider voltage range.

Right, but with battery at 50% (but only 40 or 30 ) if you turn on the flashlight with regulated driver, maximum light return again, this is what is missing in the X6, if you have 50% battery, you have much less light than might have on battery charge, and if you do not have good battery have less light yet.

In my Wizard I have 1200 led lumen @ 4,20 battery and I have the same light when I turn on the light again even if the battery has only 3 volts.

Maybe it’s my wrong use of the language that I do not understand you, sorry.

Thanks for the graphs/charts, that clarify's the picture I was getting from the explanations. Regulation is possible, but at a lower than maximum output. Essentially, from the lowest output the cell in use can maintain for it's duration. That is good for an EDC like maybe my EagTac TX25C2 or my new little Sunwayman C20C (which now has an LD1 driver by the way)

Point being that the regulation works well in a relatively low powered light unless there is a massive power supply available. Perhaps this is what the Fenix TK61/TK75 accomplish with the 4 cell carrier and 4 cell extension tube?

On a rare occasion, I recognize a fine effort and don't modify a light. The EagTac TX25C2 is one of those, as is my little Xeno EO3 V3. I did put a higher grade emitter in the Xeno, but didn't change the driver. Same for the EagTac, it has an XP-L V4 3D now. (Dang! I hadn't thought of putting an XP-L in the Xeno! Woot!) :) I had sworn I was going to leave the Fenix TK22 alone, sweet little light. But the LD-1 needed a home and I liked the dual switch option of the TK22, so, well, I caved.

I see the point though, thanks guys for the insights. Now if we can only get a light doing full regulation at 5A...

Edit: No intention of de-railing the thread or anything, but had to share the specs on the little Xeno EO3 V3... very interesting little light, especially the part about "any AA battery"! So is this the kind of circuitry y'all are talking about?

Notice how they missed it on the mode selection...starts on Low, next up is Ultra Low, then BAM straight into High! lol Just goes to show, the Leatherman rule is present in all walks of life. Give em some of what they want, but never ALL of what they ask for.

This 220 lumen light will run on high output for over an hour on one AA battery. Also has SOS and strobe functions.

Any AA battery, no pocket clip, click tailcap, finger groove style body, glow in the dark switch boot, stainless steel bezel ring, lanyard, 220 Lumens.

  • Low (350mA/110lms/2hrs)
  • Ultra Low (150mA/50lms/5hrs)
  • High (800mA/220lms/1hr)
  • CREE high power LED, XP-G series
  • Rated input of LED driver: DC 0.8~3.7V
  • Battery (not included)
  • Uses AA size battery - dry cell, Alkaline, Ni-Cd, Ni-MH, 14500 Li-ion, or LiFePO4
  • XENO HDE engine
  • Real linear LED driver, developed and made by XENO
  • Non-flickering and absolutely noiseless even at utra-low levels
  • XENO unique Quiet RSL™ technology
  • XENO unique GFC (Gamble Free Concept) impact-resistant technology
  • Built in battery inverted load protection
  • 3-stage variable output: low, ultra low, high
  • The low output level is always the start mode after 3 seconds of power off
  • Max output: 220 lms
  • Max burn time: 20 hours
  • Normal anodized Al-alloy construction
  • GITD (glow-in-the-dark) SIR (silicone rubber) tail cap and O-ring under lens
  • Water proof: IPX-8; 10 meters dunk resistance

I think what altair tries to point out is a type regulation in which, when the voltage of the battery drops below the voltage needed to maintain lumen output, the driver starts increasing the current and boosting the voltage to maintain the led current and output. This is a good idea because batteries can maintain a high power output during most of their drainage, but are very much less capable to maintain their initial voltage while doing that.

I'm pretty sure that Zebralight AA lights do that, but those are boosting the voltage from the start anyway. I know too few lights to know if there are 18650 lights that start out with lineair (or even buck-) regulation and when the voltage drops swap to boost regulation.

dsign it djozz, you'll be dman! :)

:-) It has been discussed before on BLF, such a driver is not simple to design. But I know not much of electronics, I understand the basic principles quite well, but those Oshpark board discussions are apart from those basics completely out of reach for me :-(

Just ordered a QLITE REV.A with 4 additional 7135 to replace the stock driver :slight_smile:

I just received my 3 X6 flashligts they look nice but I HATE that the box has sticky tape all around it, its not worth putting BLF special edition if it gets ripped off by tape we all should get replacements

Krono should make a sticky of the hairdryer/hot air solder tool thing in his first post.

Now that Sully has received his BLF SE, I can openly say that the LD-1 driver from led4power is a very sweet option for this light. :)

~4.86A and 1500 lumens, really put's this light into a category of it's own. Not exactly a budget option, but a splendid match nonetheless.

more info , please. To us non modders, could we replace this driver ourselves? And is anything else needed? If this is possible for us, what cell is desirable also? Thanks!

The LD-1 is a single sided 17mm driver, designed by our own led4power and sold by him exclusively. He has a thread on the building of it and a separate thread for sales.

It's pretty much a straight drop in, you have to solder leads onto it and then solder those to the star. Pretty much it.

With a Panasonic NCR18650BD at 3200mAh, it makes 1511 lumens with a ~4.86A draw on level 4, this is still good for 1463 lumens at 30 seconds. Level 1 is 3.86 lumens pulling 0.01A for a tremendously long run time. Level 2 is 0.07A at 43 lumens, Level 3 is 0.93A at 417 lumens.

This is measured using a UCLp AR lens from flashlightlens.com before the new SE's came out with their nice AR lenses. The UCL and UCLp are considered top of the class with 99% and 98% emissivity, respectively.

There is a caveat with the LD-1 though, or should I say 2 caveats...it costs $14.90 for each driver and he has a 3 driver minimum. This could probably be split with other members to make it possible if you don't need more than one. Led4power is currently sold out, with a new batch in the works as I write this.

thank you kindly for this information, including the caveats.

That sounds like a great option, still weighing what to do with mine! That link shows a 140% turbo mode that you can activate too by soldering a star…is that even further above the output you have written and it gives you 5 total modes, or that IS WITH the soldered turbo output you have above?

And…was that light an older emitter or the new ones we are getting? I’m anticipating we wont get quite so much in comparison if its the old one…