Aplos may ne outsourcing their production to Sofirn, who are a well-known OEM/ODM (Wurkkos and maybe others) for other companies.
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It makes me wonder how consistent things are for them.
It probably needs unsoldering the PCB and very careful with the USB-C port. It will also depend on the type of switch. If it is Sofirn style (integrated in the driver), it will probably be harder to get it out 
Generally it will fall under whatever agreement the brand has with the manufacturer. More $ for better quality per unit. Cheaper lights will usually be lacking in that area
I wanted to buy the Tovild flashlight…I dont understand-i see the price,then when iam logged in and the price is much higher…How to???
AliExpress always plays with prices, sometimes shows Welcome Deal price on normal items listing
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I just stumbled upon a “cheap”/Chinese stainless steel flashlight I haven’t seen before. It’s maybe a bit more on the upper end of the ‘cheap-scale’, but given the somewhat unique looks and material, it might be an interesting flashlight.
Lumen and distance claim is obviously total BS, but it looks like a decent flashlight, with a replaceable 21700 (possibly included?) and USB-C charging.
Here it can be seen that it has a USB-C charging port on the opposite side of the button:
This is the store with the lowest price and with the best ratings:
This is the only other shop that I could find that offers this light, but it is more expensive and it is a pretty new store with only a few reviews/ratings:
I’m really curious and tempted to order one, but over the past couple of weeks I already ordered way too much stuff on Aliexpress, so for now I will pass on it and hope someone else orders one and posts more details about this light, here on BLF. 
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It has 5 Modes but nowhere it is said what the modes are.
5 Modes are too often Lo Mid Hi SOS Strobe, before I buy this, I will ask the seller
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Looks like an interesting host for a laser diode…
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That is a good idea, since then you don’t have to rely on the driver it comes with. (And I think it’s a good looking host for a laser.)
I just found the zoomie sibling: Neues Modell, Edelstahl, hohe Helligkeit, super tragbare taktische Taschenlampe, wiederaufladbar, Outdoor, Bergsteigen, Zoom, Weiß, L - AliExpress 39
That’s indeed a good looking host
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This is way too low. Maybe LM hits the measurement limit?
Could you please measure intensity from 3 or more meters?
UPD: Nevermind. Wingman has pointed to James_C’s measurements.
I was curious about the driver and I believe there have been no pictures in this topic, I decided to pull the driver out of my BT13, to make some quick close up photos from the driver components/construction. (Photo quality could be better; just took a few quick photos to get an idea of the driver.)
Some photos and after that some things that stood out to me:
-The ‘underside’/battery side of the driver houses 6 A19T transistors/P-channel mosfets.
-My sample had a ‘thick’ blob of solder on the outer contact ring, which will likely prevent the driver retaining ring to make full/flat contact with the driver.
-The copper ‘button’ (for battery contact) on my driver is not soldered on flat; it is slightly angled.
-The ‘upside’ of the driver has 2x 4056C chips, which should be li-ion charging chips I believe. The only reason I can think of that they used 2 (identical) charging chips, is that each of them only charges at 1A, so maybe 2 in parallel to get 2A charging? (Correct me if I’m wrong!)
The driver wires used are 20AWG, which is not too bad, but the negative wire had a big cut in it, as can be seen in the last photo. Given the location, this is probably caused by a sharp edge on the hole through the ‘shelf’ of the flashlight and could cause some serious issues when it would make contact with the housing/body of the flashlight.
Not too much I can think of right now, to mod on the driver, but I will be rectifying the few issues I’ve spotted and I will replace the 20AWG driver wires with 18AWG ones. When everything is put back together, I will do an amp test at the tail with several high drain batteries, to see how much my sample will pull.
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I got 13 amps in turbo mode with stock battery.
The stock battery has about 50% of declared capacity but IR is OK. I don’t recall specific numbers but I remember the IR was “normal”.
UPD: stock battery sucks - 28.1mOhm IR.
I got 13A with Sofirn’s IF25A battery, wich has IR of 8.6mOhm.
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That’s a bit more than @James_C got with a stock battery. (See quoted post below for reference.)
I’ve bought it without a stock battery, but I also haven’t done an amp test before I took it apart, unfortunately. When put back together, I will be sure to test several batteries (probably Wurkkos 21700, Samsung 40T and Ampace JP40), to see if that could make a slight difference/improvement in amps.
I’m just curious to see what the limit of this flashlight/driver is.
Maybe his batteries had lower voltage at the moment ? I ran my test immediately after full charge.
Also we might have different stock batteries, because mine is not branded and looks like Panasonic on steroids. I doubt it can outperform 40T though, but I can remeasure its IR later in the evening.
I’m planning to put LHP73B in this BT90 flashlight.
Do you think it might work well or the driver might burn ?
I was wondering the same thing
I don’t recall, but I imagine I would have charged it fully before doing the tests. My stock battery is branded Alonefire.
At the time of my post above I was unsure about my lux measurements, but I now think they were correct.
I’m planning to try the same thing, perhaps also an LHP531.