Apologies for not posting the emitter info, I forget them and have to get the boxes out. You’re a fair way out, but have the KR1AA NTG50 2700K correct.
It’s pretty hard to detect the green in the SFT-25 when in use, or the pink in the NTG35, but turn one on after using another and the eyes (and possibly the camera sensors) really see the pink/green contrast. In that sense, comparison beam colour pics aren’t true a true indicator.
If I was to go for another KR1AA I’d pick the highest Kelvin NTG Hank has. I find the Noctogon a much nicer light for the pocket, the cigar grip and tail switch work well for me, the only thing limiting use is the lovely 2700K emitter which is great by the bed at night, but not much use outdoors.
great info, corrected the pic captions in the earlier post
Im liking the look of the 5000K NTG, its one I have not tried
agree w your comments that tint comparisons on camera are not the same as what our eyes see
also agree 2700K would not be an outdoor light for me.. I like 5000K for that.. it stands out more distinctly.. I think the 5000K NTG is the coolest option available..
I have mentioned it, but that is what I got in the only KR1AA that I have. I like it. Just a hint of that rosy tint. But real neutral looking for the most part. I can’'t see even a hint of green. I think you asked me to get out the meter and check the DUV… maybe one day.
BTW, that KR1AA beam looks like the optic might be slightly out of position. It might be worth taking the bezel off, making sure the lens exists, and adjusting the position of the optic a bit.
I had one which looked similar to that… and found it was because the lens was missing and the optic was kind of flopping around loose. Probably because Hank sent me an old prototype or “B stock” type thing. It had some other issues too, which is why he sent it to me… I asked him to send one which was having problems, so I could try to fix it. And the beam looked like that until I centered the optic and added a lens.
I had every type of problem with my KR1AA when I got it. There was a chip of plastic from the snapping of the optic from its injection moulding caught on the emitter. Plus I did a complete tailcap breakdown and reassembly to get it working. Now, all is good with it.
This is correct in my experience. I received yesterday the silver KR1AA SFT-70 3000K I ordered from Hank. The tint is quite neutral to my eyes, just like my other sample of the same emitter.
I can’t say I see positive DUV tint even when directly compared to my other KR1AA, which has FL5009R 4200K (possibly more or less rosy than Hank’s NTG50?) which is pretty rosy, a bit more than my 219B 4500K D220 and 4000K D200. The SFT-70 3000K tint reminds me very much of an incandescent bulb, or halogen headlight bulbs. It actually appears a touch warmer than my truck headlights. It is a bit rosy on high output levels but that is pretty normal.
Haven’t taken any beamshots because it’s raining currently.
V2.5 adds spring loops to the driver, and shortens the inner tube. Two orange O rings at tail is V2.5. Head glued. (I requested no glue). Inside of tailcap is anodized to provide physical lockout.
V3 deletes retaining ring on driver, and has longer outer tube. Two O rings at tail, one is black. Head not glued. Inside of head is anodized to provide physical lockout. Switch has double resistance pressure. Tailcap has no threads at the edge.
took some DMM continuity tests:
V1 body threads Not anodized, inside head Not anodized, inside tail Not anodized. Loosening head does Not turn off Aux, loosening tail does Not turn off Aux.
V2.5 body threads Not anodized, inside head Not anodized, inside tail YES anodized. Loosening head does Not turn off Aux, loosening tail Does turn off Aux.
V3 body threads Yes anodized, inside head Yes anodized, inside tail Yes anodized. Loosening head Does turn off Aux, loosening tail also turns off Aux.
Double pressure switch resistance is about 32 oz, switch is also available for V1, V2 and V2.5.
Switch mods with 1.5mm O rings have 52 oz pressure. With 1mm O rings the pressure drops to 40 oz.
The double pressure switch is nice at 32 oz, for me it is Goldylocks.. just right
The 1.5mm thick O ring mod at 52 oz, is too heavy for me, when multiclicking to change options..
I have removed my O ring mods and adopted the new double pressure switches.
Going to apologize here for another long post that isn’t really saying much that hasn’t already been said, but I had forgotten to write down a few things.
I think the new switch is good. It’s noticably a bit stiffer than my o-ring modded V1, and it is very clicky. Quite a bit louder, which I don’t think is necessarily a terrible thing, but I don’t love it either, I think it has a nice amount of resistance. I don’t have a scale that allows me to test the switch activation pressure, but I’m guessing it’ll be about the same as mentioned here in this thread. I haven’t taken my tailcaps apart yet.
I did notice the black o-ring underneath the clip ring that my V1 didn’t have or need. The clip is about the same, as in it only spins it turns if I push on it, it doesn’t move by itself like on a KR4. It’s not as secure as the very similar o-ring setup in the FW3A, but it is not an issue at all.
I had forgotten about the ability to mechanically lock out the later versions, it wasn’t something I was really concerned with to be honest. Same with the magnetic tail, although I’m wondering if maybe I should’ve chosen that option on my spare tailcap just to try it. When tested the mechanical lockout only works if you loosen the head. If you do that with the tail, the AUX stays on, but the switch will not turn on the main emitter.
I wonder if the clear anodization or the absence of a driver retaining ring could become an issue down the line. I’m guessing the threads are anodized the same. I’ve never had anything with clear anodization before, but I have noticed it is far more slick than glossy black or raw metal (Cu, Ti, brass) lights.
The beam is slightly narrower than the FL5009R/NTG50, but not by much. I wonder how it compares specifically to XHP50.3 Hi. I can’t remember which has the smaller total die size. The beam is very nice though, no donut hole or artifacts at all. I think this will be a very nice little light.
good info, had not realized, confirmed true on my V3 also.
in your no magnet V1, iirc your O ring is 9mm OD x 1mm thick, less resistance than the 8.5mm OD x 1.5mm thick in my no magnet V1..
agree switch loudness seems to vary.. my V3 is louder than my softer V1. I dont mind. The sound also changes on my V3 depending on where I place my finger, and if I press the button near the edge
yes, afaik the SFT has the smallest phosphor size, 2.55 x 2.55.
The XHP50 is 3.00 x 3.00, and
the NTG50 is 4.30 x 4.30
I’m amazed there’s already so many versions of the light. I’m thinking maybe I need to give it another chance with one of these newer versions, have to think of what color combo and LED to choose from.
I guess I’m an odd ball that likes rosy tints as well as the warmer colors. I think I just like having the drastic variety. I’ve got the 3000K right now, maybe a NTG 4200 is in my future?? Though I feel like that will be too similar to my D3AA in FFL351A 4000K. Decisions decisions!
The new V3 Silver is special, because the head is not glued (and double pressure switch). The other V2.5 colors have glued head (but they do now get the new double pressure switch).
I really like NTG 2700K. It is beautifully rosy, but not excessively. duv is close to -0.0050 not close to previous reports of less than -0.0100
from what others reported, it seems my new 4200K is less rosy than earlier versions. I dont know if its just individual variation, or a less rosy new batch.
disclaim.. take duv numbers with salt, Im using an Opple 3 and Jackson uses Opple 4.. both are uncalibrated and differ in results
right now only Silver is V3
this is the latest revision,
head is not glued, lockout at the head
the Grey is V2.5, head is glued, lockout at tail.. one revision step behind the Silver V3
if you want V2.5 Grey, it is already a solid design… the clip is secured by a second O ring, and the tailswitch comes upgraded to double pressure, same as V3. The only difference is you load the V2.5 battery from the tailcap. V3 battery loads from the head.
