Lol! “Emitter jitters”. Free with every Hank or FFL 
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True, confirmed.
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Thankfully they’re relatively cheap on the wallet!
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Thanks Hank. Is the plan to transition the other colors over or will the clear aluminum remain different?
Thanks to @jon_slider for documenting the versions as well.
Yes, we do have the plan to transit to the V3 version for other colors in the future.
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Thanks Hank. You da best.
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would it be possible that if you’re already doing d3aa runs in green, to toss in a few kr1aa components as testers? 
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So it’s rounded and it is only one layer?
yes, the round metal dome is under what looks like one layer of yellow Kapton tape
the original metal dome is not round, it has 4 legs and half the pressure
fwiw the new switch from hank has 900gm pressure. I can duplicate that with an O ring that is 0.9mm thick, on the original switch, with a button that has a magnet. It is an easy pressure to use, and is double the stock original switch pressure.
I have been using some O ring mods with the original switch on my V2 that has a magnet.
first I tried an 9mm OD x 1.5mm, it gave very high pressure of 1600gm. This is too high for me.
then I experimented with sanding the O ring to be thinner, which works much better for me.
at 9mm OD x 1mm thick the resistance pressure is 1200gm. I like this. It only works if the V2 switch button has a magnet. Or if there is no magnet, use two 9mm OD x 1.5mm thick O rings, one inside the switch button and one on the silicone dome cover.
for V2 button, modify original pressure switch w O ring:
if no magnet on V2 button, add O ring to button cup,
plus O ring on silicone switch cover:
Warning: Do not attempt to modify the switch unless you accept the risk that it wont work after the mod, unless you learn how to adjust it.
After doing the O ring mod, if the light gives triple blink error when closing, getting the switch to work correctly, requires adjusting the retaining ring tension, and getting the inner body tube set to the proper depth to make good contact.
The main things to keep in mind are, after first closing the retaining ring tight, if the light gives triple blinks, loosen the switch retaining ring very slightly, and then before closing the tilcap, pull the inner tube out so it resets itself at the proper depth when closing the tailcap. We need the light to give one single flash when closing.
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How hard is it to replace the switch? I have the V2 with everything glued I think (didn’t ask for anything not to be glued)
if you want to do an O ring mod to the existing switch, or install Hanks new switch, you will need debonder and retaining ring pliers. And you will need to learn how to adjust the switch as described at the end of this post so it does not give triple blink errors.
If you dont have debonder and retaining ring pliers already, or if you are not up for the challenge of getting the switch adjusted correctly, it would be cheaper and simpler to just buy a new complete tailcap.
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Oh no, I’ll have to order a new flashlight to get free shipping on the new tail cap. Whatever will I do 
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LOL!
I did the same
when I ordered the new switch for my KR1AA 2700K, I saved $8 in shipping…
by buying the KR1AA 4200K 
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Has anyone got (the kahunas) and ordered SFT70 6500k 11,000cd, beam shots please?
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Between the 2700k and 4200k is there a favorite?
I use 2700K the most indoors after sunset. I also use it when I wake up in the middle of the night to use the bathroom.
The 4200K is not my favorite for those situations, but it has benefits for daytime EDC, because the 2700K looks a bit too orange during the day, when Im adapted to sunlight.
I also think the 4200K is a good option for walking outdoors at night. imo better than 2700K because I prefer less orange light when Im actively moving.
Today I installed an NTG 5000K in another one of my KR1AA. Im very happy with it. Because it looks the Whitest when Im adapted to sunlight, it might become my daytime EDC instead of the 4200K.
When walking outdoors at night Im not sure yet, I might prefer the 4200K.
its good to have choices 
here is the new 5000K:
to me it does not look as rosy as the photo. When I shine it at a white wall during the day, it looks mostly white, with just a slight hint of rosy, if I look for it. Im very happy with it. The duv of -0.0074 is not excessive for my personal preferences.
For daytime EDC I like the NTG 5000K better than the NTG 4200K.
previously my 5000K option was an XHP, on the right:
I did not like the greenish tint so I decided to remove that LED, and install the NTG50 5000K. Im very glad I did.
these are my 3 KR1AA now:
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Thanks for the beamshots! Very helpful.
Do you happen to have any NTG35 emitters? To my eyes, the NTG35 5000k is incredibly rosy to the point that it doesn’t really look like white light at all. I’m wondering if the NTG50 would be roughly the same or more neutral.
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some people react the way you do..
Im not sure why.
Here is a comparison of 4200K. I dont find my NTG35 too rosy, and I dont find my NTG50 too rosy either:
fwiw, comparing with my Opple 3, the NTG50 4200K that I received last week, is warmer, and has lower duv than the NTG35 4200K that I received last summer.
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I had SFT70 5000K.. it was greener than I care for:
typical Low CRI and green tint. Works fine outdoors, makes foliage look nice and green, and it is bright.
I did not take any outdoor photos, and the LED has been replaced, first with an XHP50.30 Hi, that was less green and added High CRI, then with an NTG50 5000K, that I like much better for my close range and mainly indoor uses.
I dont spend much time hiking outdoors lately, if I did, the SFT70 would probably be fine.
5000K; SFT, XHP, NTG:
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I have an SFT70 in 5000k and to me it looks pretty much like pure white. However, that’s a sample size of one so maybe I just won the lottery. I should do a white surface comparison with some other lights and see if that impression holds up to closer scrutiny.
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