Is that impression from using it outdoors at night, or on a white wall during the day, or some other scenario?
Outdoors on a clean sidewalk, but also indoors pointed at white popcorn ceiling. That being said, I haven’t directly compared it to a bunch of other 5000k lights yet.
I have LH351D, XP-L Hi, SFT-40, and XHP70.2 in 5000k off the top of my head. (Oh and of course the recently acquired NTG35s). I expect my particular SFT-70 will be less green than most of them but we’ll see.
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makes sense a green tinted Low CRI LED would work fine in a sidewalk application
suggest you try the NTG in the same application,
just to see whether the NTG works to illuminate the sidewalk in a useful way.. even if the tint is different than the Low CRI LEDs you normally use
High CRI will also make any flowers on your walk, look more beautiful than with Low CRI
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Actually, I live near some newly installed sidewalks and others that are diligently maintained. I see them more as being a white wall test I can’t entirely avoid.
I compared the SFT-70 with some of my other 5000k emitters last night. The SFT-70 might be very slightly greenish on low levels of output, however if I’m not directly comparing it mainly looks like a cream color to me and it is uniform in tint. Since mine is in a thrower and meant for outdoor use, this light is likely to be on 50% output and up 99% of the time so effectively it’s just a white light in use even when I hit a white building or a sidewalk with it. The LH351D looks green in comparison when both are on low output. So does the XHP 70.2 although that one was expected.
Yes, I’m familiar with the benefits of high CRI, but I find that bad tint or tint shift is way more distracting than low CRI in lights. For indoor lights meant for close work I’m more likely to go with the high CRI option since you don’t need 4000+ lumens on something 2 feet away. More of my EDC lights are high CRI than not.
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makes sense
thanks for sharing your thoughts on the use of different LEDs for outdoor vs close range applications
I agree outdoor throwers work fine w Low CRI LEDs, and also agree High CRI suits me better for close range
4200K NTG (well, I have the FL5009R which is possibly slightly less rosy) is a very nice quality of light. I mean it has great tint, good CRI. IMO it is very similar to my 4500K 219B (D220 bin) lights, just a bit less rosy than my early-batch rosy bin FL351A. Even still the light can look a little pinkish if your eyes have been adjusted to midday sun. My FL707A KR1 with Olga TIR in 4200K is quite a bit more rosy than any of the aforementioned LEDs.
Can’t recall the OEM for these NTG/FL emitters, but they’re very nice in my experience. Possibly my favorites, since they don’t compromise much in any category.
Overall for most situations, I prefer 4000-4500K. If I’m working outside at night I take my 3000K Armytek, but it doesn’t have good tint and I think it might be just R9050? In contrast, the 3500K FL5009R was extremely too rosy for me, which is why I swapped the 4200K into my KR1AA. The 3000K SFT-70 is neutral as mentioned. Good tint, and better R9 to my eyes than NTG/FL.
I know there have been first-batch issues with many lights, and some people have posted the issues they’ve had with their various KR1AA models, but I haven’t had any problems out of mine. I have a V1 from Jackson, the second batch he listed on his site. Recently got the V3 silver which was the color I wanted most originally, but it sold out then.
I think it’s possible that many of the issues people have had could be due to insufficient tightening of the head or tailcap.
I absolutely love the KR1AA, and eventually I’ll get one in every color. I’m waiting for copper and brass, I’ll buy both. Surely a TiCu will come, although personally I would prefer all-Ti without a copper head, even though it’d be worse thermally. It’s probably the best 14500 light you can get, tied with the D3AA, just depending if you prefer side switch or tail. Love both my D3AAs as well although I don’t carry them as much now, as I prefer the tailswitch and thinner, smoother body that lends itself better to mouthholding which I very frequently am doing.
I think the D3AA might have better overall runtime efficacy though. Also, the AUX is pretty bright on the KR1AA, sometimes even too high on low while sitting on the nightstand, even though AUX on low doesn’t really drain the battery too much. Mostly I turn the AUX off so my cat won’t incessantly try to attack it and knock it off the table.
I might’ve been able to condense this post but I’ll leave it
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Those are exactly what I have for my two KR1AAs. The silver is a new V3, the gray is a V1. I haven’t had a single issue from mine. I carried the gray one almost every single day since I got it on December 13.
I think most of the reported issues were with the V2 or V2.5 ones, which I don’t have. I believe getting the mechanical lockout to work properly was where most of the problems came from?
TBH It’s not something I was concerned with regarding this style of light. The V1 needed an o-ring switch mod to increase switch activation pressure to my liking. Even still, a couple times it turned on in my pocket from accidental activation, so I used Anduril’s 4C or sometimes auto-lockout. However I think that with the new V3 switch even that is unnecessary, the switch pressure is truly higher and less accident-prone. I really wish Hank would do the same with the KR1/KR4 switch, since they are just plain mushy.
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Lots of good info and feedback here, thanks!
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Thanks for the feedback, the KR4/KR1 switch has also been updated to the new firmer version recently.
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Hi Hank,
Any idea, rough guess on when we’ll see more color options for the KR1AA?
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Oooh, this is great to hear. When I order my KR1AA I will ask to buy a new KR4 switch in AL (assuming you are able to sell them separately). I have a couple of KR4TI and the titanium galling when twisting the tailcap is not my favorite experience.
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Obviously someone could have an SFT-70 light designed for close work, but mine is in a D1K with a smooth reflector
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yes,
the High CRI SFT 70 3000K is a very popular option in the KR1AA 
That is wonderful. If they can be self separately 8 will buy multiple switches
I love it in my KR1AA, my other sample of that emitter was recently swapped into a Convoy M1. I think it would be very nice in the DM11 as well. I had it in the L21B but no combination of gaskets could center it properly.
I believe Hank has a separate page solely for the KR1AA tailcap, with a possible tritium option (which I took, adding cost), but he said both tailcaps would come with the new switch. I got two shiny aluminum ones
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Many customers are wanting colors with v3 upgrades, stiffer switches, but with unglued heads.
How long before I can order black type III ano with head unglued?
Thanks!
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I knicked my silver one after forgetting I had stuck it somewhere, and it hit the rough rocky floor with a sickening clatter. THANKFULLY, while the damage is deep, it’s merely superficial, as the water resistance components are fine, the light works, and the lens did not crack nor shatter. I feel like I can now use it without babying it, and might even try to apply a “battle scar” aesthetic. Anyone have tips on how to carbonize or stain the clear anodizing on the kr1aa “v3”?
**being silver with bronze clip and button, it already feels kind of sci-fi-ish, and the collonade design makes it look like a piece of dystopian art.
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Assuming the ding is on the tailcap? I’d place a tiny dab of urethane over the ding. Clear anodize is very thin stuff. Pretty much all it does is stop or slow down oxidation.
Can you post a photo? The clear silver finish with bronze sounds like carmel syrup topping on a single scoop cone 