it’s on the head 
I’ll follow up with a pic later, occupied with some other stuff at the moment…
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When exposed to air, aluminum oxidizes faster than a human can blink. Then it stops.
The silver anodizing isn’t there to prevent oxidation. It’s there to allow mechanical lockout by unscrewing the light a few degrees. The ano blocks the flow of electricity, and also makes it harder to scratch the surface.
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Basically all the colors are V3 version with firmer switch now, you can request not to glue the head.
On the other hand, we will offer 75mm UPDI programmer soon, it is long enough even for the 21700 light, so that the user is able to update the firmware even when the head is glued.
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Not be the SS bronze PVD coated bezel? Al will ding. I’d just live with it .
Are the body head & tail threads bare Al, and the exterior body parts clear ano, or also bare, raw alloy?
Bare metal, in that case you can dress-up that ding a bit so it does not snag. Do a little body work.
@ToyKeeper, roger that about unplated threads and conductivity. Raw aluminum will also tarnish, leave a black residue on your clothes and inside your pockets
I was thinking battery changes through the head end ;^)
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That’s great news.
Maybe? I have a few raw aluminum lights and never experienced any of that, even with daily carry.
The KR1AA is silver anodized though, not bare metal.
I like it either way… bare aluminum or silver anodized. I also really like the grey ano with stainless steel trim (bezel, button, clip).
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Are you sure silver and not clear anodized?
The silver color you see is polished aluminum.
I think, perhaps Hank can clear this up. Pun not intended.
I had a bare Al that rode in my denim jean pockets while working at Todd Shipyards in Hunters Point, SF. 6061 is soft stuff.
Is there a meaningful difference?
The point is … it’s anodized, not bare metal. Hank answered this in his thread.
It looks almost the same as bare metal, but it is not.
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Right-on! Silver Surfer it is…
If the anodization is broken through, Aluma Black would show the scars. You can get a pen type applicator of the stuff for less than 10 bucks.
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the marks could be blended in with a fingernail buffing block
that will remove the anodizing but it may not be very noticeable since the bare aluminum will be very similar in appearance to the clear anodizing.
I cant really see much difference between my Clear Anodized V2.5 and my Raw V1:
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I have one, but opted not to use it because it changed the balance substantially. On such a smooth light, I was worried I would’ve dropped it, but that’s kind of a moot point now I guess, lol
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Thanks for the tip! I’ll think about it…I definitely want to give it a future-past relic aesthetic, because it seems to give “old republic” vibes. Eventually, something will come to me, lol.
@LedTed I’ll look into that stuff for sure. Now, the question remains…Do I intentionally roadrash that general area before applying the Aluma black, as to simulate phaser burn?
thanks for confirming
that is why I dont order the stainless bezel w my KR1AA’a
just the thought makes me cringe
not a fan of the ball peen hammered look:
(not my light)
but yeah, after sanding off the anodizing.. and hammering, you could use an aluminum black pen and then polish the highlights, to end up with something similarly distressing.. 
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I’m guessing you’re not a big fan of Warhammer 40k 
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If Matt Black is only type II then clear ano would be my choice for best looking after pocket wear.
Does the SS bezel adds substantial weight that makes it feel nose heavy?
Hank, a low profile hat style clip would be nice on this AA light.. just saying ;^)
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After viewing that hammered finish. Perhaps taking a smooth butter knife and pushing the raised ding back in, rather than removing material. Just a suggestion 
@jon_slider Yeah…that hammer finish isn’t exactly the aesthetic I’m looking to do…I’m not going to risk further gouging the ding, but I might pulse it with a sandblaster to give it the “phaserburn” pattern.
The SS does make the light noseheavy when cigar holding or when drawing. It’s enough to throw off the balance when I fidget or fingertwirl the light
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A friend lent me his KR1AA with an FFL 5000K, so I had the opportunity to measure the Tint DUV of Jacksons FFL 5000K that he lists as duv -0.0022 measured on his Opple 4 (I dont know what output he used).
On my Opple 3 it reads 0.0023 @ 300 lm on step 5 of 7, on left, compared to my NTG 5000K that reads duv -0.0075 (Jackson lists it as duv -0.0120.. take these values as approximations.. the Opple 3 and 4 are not calibrated meters):
some people prefer the more neutral tint of the FFL, to me it looks greenish and I am happy with Hank’s NTG which looks white to me (unless I compare it to something with higher duv)
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Warning: Long post again, but this could be relevant or interesting to someone.
I have noticed that my V3 polished silver SFT-70 3000K KR1AA goes through the battery quite a noticable amount more quickly than my FL5009R 4200K V1 one.
Driver is the same AFAIK, and I’m using Vapcell H10 (both flat and button top, all batteries bought in 2022-2023) in both lights. I guess the SFT draws more current at approximately the same (don’t have measuring equipment) output. I may update or reply to this after I do the Anduril version check, cause I’m certain they are not the same build number.
Also noticed that while on step level 4/7 (which I set as the 1C mode memory level on all my Anduril lights), the SFT-70 light actually heats up a bit after a minute or two, whereas the FL5009R one does not (except for the heat transfer from my hand). I have set it to step 3/7 because of this, and it works well since I usually use this light more than the V1 after dark because of the CCT, and also because it’s slightly more intense than the FFL emitter, a lower starting level is preferred.
If my IR thermometer is accurate, the SFT-70 3000K light hits [99.8°F @ 7 minutes] on step 4/7, and the FL 4200K light is at [83.1°F @ 7 minutes], both starting from a room temperature of 72.3°F. Both measured with an IR thermometer gun with its laser on the middle groove of the head cooling fins. There was less than 1 degree difference at the bezel.
Note: I have not manually calibrated the Anduril temperature settings, they are both factory, from a fresh 13H reset with no settings altered except for going into advanced mode.
With these lights I keep the AUX on voltage mode. After a few days of sporadic but similar amounts of use, the V1 will be showing cyan/teal or around 3.7-3.9V, and V3 will be green or yellow, at 3.3-3.5V. I noticed the AUX color changing faster (and the heat) on the V3 and that’s what prompted this “test.”
Does any of this matter? Not really I guess. I would imagine a 6500K SFT-70 or XHP50.3 Hi light would have higher battery efficacy? At least with the R70, but then you’d have to deal with lower CRI, higher SFT CCT, or possible bad tint with the R9050 XHP. Not sure what bin, but I do like the R70 4000K 50.3 Hi, but the severely impacted red reproduction is almost not worth it.
Eventually I will order more KR1AA in other ano colors and emitters/CCTs, likely one of each color, especially if/when Hank releases brass/copper/titanium. KR1AA has quickly become one of my favorite lights, as the D3AA had when it released. They’re both essentially the perfect “EDC” light in my experience and opinion. They’re absolutely wonderful lights. Very likely the “best” AA/14500 sized light.
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