I think the KR1AA optic is frosted in the center to hide the gaps between the 4 segments of the LEDs
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It does and it works well. I’ll have to try for a picture to show the square pattern I mentioned.
It’s really more like something similar to having dedomed 519A under a 10621 or 10507 clear spot optic. I didn’t notice it for a few days though, it’s so faint.
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White wall hunting, with no diffuser, from a little less than a meter away .
KR1AA
Rings NOT as visible in practical use. Much more uniform beam in real life.
TS10SG
Many artifacts viable in practical use. But with much more throw than the KR1AA.
NOTE: BLF users favorite diffuser (water bottle cap), directly with no modification, fits both the regular TS10 and the TS10SG.
Use of this cap totally transforms the beam profile to having greatly reduced artifacts. But, at the cost of extremely reduced throw.
12/27/25 Edited post and added two diffuser related pictures. (See “NOTE:” above.)
Water bottle cap installed, individual “petals” in reflector visible.
Corona ring more golden than green in real life.
White wall hunting using the same bottle cap diffuser. Picture taken with beam one meter away.
Output increased from previous picture without diffuser.
“Petals” gone and color shifts visible in real life, but rings less visible. Central cross not visible in real life.
Corona ring more golden than rosy in real life. (Vertical lines are the paneling.)
No longer have my setup for throw comparison pictures.
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Can’t wait
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Both my KR1AA have very smooth beams with no noticeable artifacts (NTG50 5000K and SFT70 5000K).
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What emitter is in your KR1AA? I don’t seem to have a ring with mine in FL5009R 4000K. My next is going to be SFT-70 3000K, probably in black anodization. I only have two black Hank lights, most are green. I wish he will do the stone white one.
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The slight square, or slight X-shape in my KR1AA beam is absolutely not going to show up on camera. Doesn’t bother me though, you have to be looking to see it.
I wonder if I had the emitter slightly off-center when I reflowed it.
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The clip on the ut01 is the one every used to replace the dumb two way clips on the Ts10’s .
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Sorry for the lateness in replying and for recycling an old picture.
KR1AA rings . . .
NTG50 5000K on the Left and FFL5009R 5000K on the right.
Rings visible while white wall hunting. In practical use appears more: hot-spot, corona, and spill.
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Thanks guys for dissecting the beam and comparisons, this is why I love this community.
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FWIW, here are the calculated candela per lumen for each LED Hank offers for the upcoming KR1AA V2.
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I might be sold on that 3000k sft70…looks pretty true to life
thank you for the visual, very helpful
The 5000K looks very nice, for a daylight white work light.
I would not choose it for my nightstand application.
Glad to see the KR1AA reaches 10 meters,
thats a reasonable outer distance, for my indoor use.
I would not choose that SFT tint for myself,
it looks more yellow ochre than I prefer..
I plan to try the NTG 2700K,
Hoping for a slightly Rosy Sunrise Tint.
That makes the existing Raw Aluminum V1 an Instant Classic! 
Since No Raw Aluminum V2 option, I think Blue will do.
I wish Stone White was an option…
You could strip off the anodizing.
It won’t be quite the same as raw, but still looks pretty good. If you want it to look shiny afterwards, you’ll need to polish up the bare aluminum.
- If you remove the anodizing without disassembling the light, the internal parts will hopefully stay anodized maintaining tailcap lockout.
- WARNING: before attempting to chemically remove the anodizing be aware that:
- If some alkaline fluid gets into the cracks and degrades the anodizing around the edges of the contact tubes in the body, it might render the light non-functional by causing a short.
- Removing the anodizing might make the minimal knurling on the body tube a bit slippery.
- Bare aluminum scratches very easily.
- Fortunately, the scratches can be pretty easily buffed off with metal polish or a Sunshine polishing cloth.
- There is a thin plastic coating you can apply to help protect bare aluminum if you find the scratches too much to deal with.
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thanks for your thoughts
I dont feel lucky, so no plans to remove anodizing and risk a mistake..
I was not sure I wanted Raw Aluminum, so now I dont have to wonder.. lol
I think blue ano will be fine
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I have a Mk1 KR1AA with blue anodizing and silver steel bezel, clip and button. It looks great. Best looking blue of any blue anodized flashlight I’ve ever owned.
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Could you please send a pic?
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