[M4D deal ALIVE]: Astrolux S43S really US$ 27.00 + review video + pics + LEGO

Mine just made it in time for the holidays

Pic isn’t showing up but what else is new

Sometimes they give you a bad link address.

Hey thanks lol

Do your batteries make contact to the head? I’m not sure if button top is necessary, but it might. If the battery positive is slightly recessed it may not touch.

Is the battery tube and tail cap screwed down well?

You might try flipping the battery tube around.

I don’t have my version yet so these are all just generic things you can try.

If you don’t get the 2 blinks when screwing the tail cap on then your not getting power to the driver.

Spot on! I don’t have a button top battery, but I have a shorter 18650 tube and it worked like a charm! Thanks a lot!

Just got my S43S today, post on it in maukka's review thread here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/53823/28.

I measured a 30% increase if you remove the bezel and lens. Seems like mainly it's the bezel blocking output - those non-standard optics go right to the edge, and the bezel overlaps the edge resulting in lost lumens, least that's my best guess at what's going on, and why these lights - S42 and S43S are lower in output than expected.

The optics are 22.1 mm in diameter while the Carclo ones are 24 mm, and the MCPCB's are different as well from standard quads like Noctigons, MtnE, etc. that match up with the Carclo. The S43S LED's are actually closer while the optic LED cups are wider.

Yeah, it’s weird. I wish they’d used a standard MCPCB and optic. Then, at least we’d have the option of fixing their design failure. :person_facepalming:

EDIT: Also, wanted to express confusion about my shipping. The Banggood site doesn’t offer to track my light, but gives me a tracking number I can use with USPS. The Banggood Order Details page also says it shipped from China. But, when I plug the tracking number into USPS.com I get a weird progression. It originated, not in China, but in Salt Lake City, Utah. It is bouncing across states, and has yet to reach USPS, because at each state it is scanned at “a shipping partner facility” instead. Has anybody else seen this happen with a Banggood shipment?

My light came yesterday while I was at work. I’ve got it on my side now, with the included clip. I think it’s my new favorite stock light (that I own).

How sensitive is the button to accidentally turning it on in pocket or pack?
(assuming someone foolishly didn’t lock it out at the tailcap)

Cool! It's a heavy carry. I'm thinking more now that the looks may out-weigh the negatives of the optics/bezel deal. I did some re-testing and maybe the loss's are less than what I first measured - might be ~20% or so, not 30%. I'm using mine on only one optic leg - ordered replacement optics from BG.

Now this is what the S42S should have been!
I have an S41S also to lego.
The pitiful spring in the Pickelhaube needs to be replaced by the double one in the current S43S tailcap.

Well, the side E-switch isn’t difficult to press accidentally, since it sticks out just a little from the body of the light. I’ve already bumped it on a couple times while wearing it on my side today.

Hey Tom E, does NarsilM have electronic lockout available? I can’t remember.

Sure, 4 quick clicks. dbl click is strobe, triple click is batt status, etc. Unless someone (TA?) changed it for this light.

Aha! Thanks. Four clicks does the lockout. Triple click does batt check. But Double click is straight to Turbo, so I guess that one was changed.

EDIT: Oh, pleasant surprise! (although it makes sense) Four clicks from lockout un-locks it. In Andúril, the only way to un-lock is power-cycle. But Andúril also has momentary mode during lock-out, which is probably why it is set that way.

EDIT AGAIN: To show that the button presses have registered for lock and un-lock, it blinks the main LED after the fourth button press. Also, when the lock-out is activated, the side button indicator LEDs go out as well.

Ohh, forgot - dbl click to turbo, then another dbl click to strobe.. From losing brain cells every day I guess...

Yes, I intentionally kill the switch LED when locked out, figuring why have it on in a pocket or bag, but who knows if that was correct think'n.

Well, I like it anyway. It’s a quick visual clue that the light is NOT ready to use, while the button being lit means the light IS ready to be used. :wink:

Yes, I had exactly that in mind! Dunno, just seemed to make some sense.

I just got my S43S. Impressive output alone on just a 18350. :open_mouth:

I don’t know if you guys are aware that this flash besides venerable strobe also has a hidden ‘Turbo-Knockout’ mode. You don’t even need to switch it on though to get to this useful part of the UI. Short tube, long tube, doesn’t matter.

Just take it in your hand and throw it as hard as you can at an attacker. If you hit him square in the forehead :person_facepalming: I GUARANTEE his kids will be born dizzy and he’ll be seeing copper tinted stars in his phuck*n sleep for the rest of his criminal life.

Is the head by any chance made out of actually DEPLETED URANIUM with just a thin copper outer jacket?

PS. Btw wear steel toe boots when you handle this thing. If you happen to drop it on a bare toe at let’s say 5’ or so I also GUARANTEE you WILL loudly vocalize expletives hereto unknown except perhaps in sailor bars.

With the glass breaker and the depleted uranium, it's one potent weapon for sure...

I dremel'ed open the bezel opening by bout 0.75 mm and sanded down the crenelation so I got just 5 remaining small black stripes left on top (gaps between the peaks). Looks kind of cool now and it got about a 6% bump (measured on the full 7135 output). Also replaced the tail double springs with a beryllium copper one from the group buy and that also got a bump at turbo. Here's pics:

So it recovered some of the lost lumens - beam pattern is ok for what it is. Might spend more time on this though - think more can be done. I want to eliminate the black completely on that inner edge, bevel the shape. In the pics it's only sanded to 600 grit - will go up to 2000 or 2500 for the final finish, and even the outer edge is a bit sharp so will smooth that out. The best lens will still lose like 2% but I'm thinking this one is losing more like 5%. I'll check if I have any UCL's around that will fit.