When the shoe is on the other web, the entire bag of Tanna leaves is needed! 
With the side switch, they could have made it turn off and on and flash, just like a traditional 2D incandescent and used the back switch for the less frequent mode switch. It seems really dumb not to follow such a well worked out and universally accepted feature.
The tail switch for on/off makes the most sense with the side switch selecting modesā¦Because, the on/off switch carries current hence the stronger physical switch. The electronic side switch just bumps the modes. Itās a mix of the best of both worlds, enabling signaling in any mode level and also enabling mode memory. There simply is no āBestā for all situations and all people. Easy enough to adapt to the device and make it work for your needs.
I say this without one in hand, but itās on the way. Might have to reinforce the water resistance of the side switch from inside with some Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive but thatās ok too. May or may not feel like bumping power or making any other mods. Iām partial to an XM-L2 T6 3C on copper, but donāt know if thatās necessary in this light with itās stock power level. Weāll see. Heck, I might get a wild hair and want to add resistance to tone it down someā¦
I suspected there might be a technical reason that it was easier, but perhaps it was easier also during the century that lights were controlled on the side. It is just not as good.
I'd rather have full control from the side switch, lumodrv style. Then the tail switch is simply a lock-out feature, or could run the last mode when activated - this is true best of both worlds - fully operational e-switch light with an easy lock-out. Of course a tactical switch makes the best sense for the tail. Ohhh - if this sounds familiar, it is... A TN31 or SupBeam K40 works the same way, just having a dial instead of an e-switch.
I was bored today. So, I took my L4 apart and disassembled the driver/star/emitter assembly. The copper star is not direct thermal path, there is a dielectric layer between the copper and the emitter. So off came the XM-L2 U2 1A and onto a Noctigon it went. Pulled the 24ga wires in favor of 20ga. Inverted the spring on the driver and bypassed it. Bypassed the tail spring. Mine had an R025 resistor on the driver so I stacked a second R025 then reassembled it.
Where it was pulling 2.95A from a Pan PF and making 1003 start lumens before, now itās doing 3.91A from the same Pan PF (just an hour later) and making 1262.7 OTF at start-up, 1228.2 OTF at 30 seconds. Works for me!
I like the build quality, really like the screwed down star and well regulated driver. The beam profile is to my liking as well. I have to admit, when I went to use it last Thursday nite I thought it had a problem so dropped it back in my pocket and waited til back in the house to check it out. Just a case of dumbassitis, forgot about the side switch controlling modes! lol
Loving it, quite impressed with Convoy. Have an C8 (with Ryans copper pill, internal), a C8 with a massive external copper (8 ounces worth of copper), an S6, an S6 SSSP, this L4 and an M1 on the way. 
nice flashlight
Thanks for the next āI want to have itā flashlightā¦
:bigsmile:
Do you own one? Is this also a āpill lessā build with a srew down emitter?
Ohā¦ 
If itās damaged anyway, canāt you disassemble it in all its glory and show us some pictures?
:party:
If itās got to be disassembled for pix, mightās well throw a new driver and LED on copper in there, see what can be made to happenā¦
Am I seeing things right? It comes with a second switch? And a replacement lens? And of course it says single 18650 cell. But it also says, and this is over the top!ā¦
ā Single purchase delivery time less than 48 hours.ā Wow!
Sometimes theyāll show āonly 3 leftā as a marketing strategy to get people off the fence. Thereās a lot of items that have only had 3 in stock for years.
Dr. Jones has a driver that works with electronic switches, you can also get around it by using the original driver board with the switch contacts and stripping everything else off the board, use a Qlite or similar to power the emitter. Tom knows how to do all of it.
The warsung looks cheap to me, at least in comparison to the L4. Basing this on pics though.
Anyone interested in a group purchase from Simon? The L4 is really tempting!
Hi AndyC. Welcome to the forum. I would be interested in a light, im sure many others would be if the price is right. Currently it can be bought from WB for 26$.. Ideally it should be well below that.... Maybe contact Simon/WB etc and see if there are possibilities of a great price. :)
Iām in for few more if group buy is around $20 
āYes please, one more group buyā
said no wallet, ever
Hi RaceR86, thank you for the welcome and interest on the group purchase. I have contact Simon and weāll see what we can come up with. Perhaps a better price with modded resistor? :bigsmile:
Would be also interested!
I've been wanting this light for a while, and I finally got one in the mail from FT. Absolutely amazing light. The quality is outstanding, but the UI is pretty bad. Not horrible though. It has a slight delay when you turn the light on, and if the last mode was low, you'll see it flash to high before switching to low. I'll be installing a 105C with different firmware when I get around to it.
When left in low on the side switch, it comes on in low when clicking the tail switch. No delay whatsover, and Iām very familiar with that as it haunts my custom Ti neck light that cost me a bundle.
Iāve even modded it with a resistor stack and itās doing over 1200 lumens at 30 seconds. None of the issues you described. I like it a lot.
The driver in mine says LDCH, itās a 20mm board I believe.