Modding my XinTD X3 (GB GB)

Hey Guys!

i buyed this Light to mod it …

when i disassemled it i noticed:

  • very good quality at all!
  • behind the Copper PCB, there was a dimple
  • another dimple on the driver side to reduce the thickmess from 5 to 2,3 mm
  • they used a good amount of thermal paste to fill the dimple
  • the driver has a second kontakt plate which prevents stacking 7135 easy on the spring side


the dimple under the LED:

and the Drivers side:


cut a pice off the 12m copper pole

after some alot filing and sanding u smashed notches into it to raise friction …

also notches in the Head

aand press it ! (greased with thermal paste)

used a little plate to level it with the Head

et voila!

mounted the LED (still domed) - the srews are gone meanwhile cause to thick)

I stacked 2 pcs AMC7135 380mA
no pix from my “soldering skilz” - i would be banned for abusing a LED driver :smiley:
i also changed the LED wires to some thicker ones - but didnt play with the (known as weak) tailcap…

but i have measurements:

(Amperes at Tailcap ( L / M / H )
18650 before: ? / 1,0 / 2,8 A
18650 after: 0,17 / 1,14 / 3,55 A
Eneloop after: 0,15 / 0,9 / 2,3 A

hope you like the inputs

Nice mod M4D M4X.

Just so you know, that copper board is not Sinkpad (which is a brand), it is just a regular copper board.

You certainly owned that dimple. Take that. You have upgraded the light nicely with basic tools. Well done and give our Kangaroos back.

That is a good-looking copper PCB. So all you had to do to up the current was use thicker wires?

no - I stacked 2 pcs AMC7135 380mA

-> edited the OP…

I finally got mine two days ago, the tailcap was literally giving me problems after a half dozen presses. The light is a nice hunk of aluminum, but I didn’t realize the Noctigon was too thick, and it’s not exactly a 17mm driver like I was told. Oh well!

Nice job though, I’m sure your soldering skills are no worse than mine.

Nice mod…and Ur’s have screws! Some of the posts in the GB said no screws for them.


mine had no screws when delivered…

I got tons of screws but brothers got my drill press. Will sell brother cheap:)


Oh yeah, mine didn’t have screws.

Nice work!

Very nicely done. Now you need to reflow your LED on a Noctigon on top of all that good stuff you’ve done.

This a nice mod job! I filled in the dimple with a little copper, than used plenty of AS5, but didn't need near as much as with the dimple. Mine I have cranking at higher amps, and it does really well with the heat.

You are losing 2.8% output by using the stock copper board w/dielectric layer, vs. a Noctigon or SinkPAD -- look at 3.5A on the charts/graph here: But of course this doesn't account for other side effects, like heat over running it for several minutes.

I wouldn’t be worried about 2.8%, sounds like a case over ever diminishing returns for work done. How do you come to such a precise figure?

From your link

Sorry to be picky but without proper laboratory equipment I have no faith in the quoted figures.

Exactly - my point is the 2.8% is pretty insignificant. The 2.8% was easy to calculate from the picture of the notebook's recorded #'s. For 3.5A, SinkPAD is 888 and copper board is 863 - 2.8% difference.

Absolute #'s are somewhat rough, but relative #'s I have a higher degree of confidence in, just like the plotted graphs show. Lab equipment - that's funny. I work on the design of equipment that measures radiation emissions -- it's lab equipment, $5,000 to $12,000 cost. I have no more confidence in any that stuff on the market than I do my 35$ light meter.

@ Tom E: LOL! That last passage of your reply is pure genius!

I agree Tom, for lower band emission measurements we should use finest equipment available. :slight_smile: