Modding my XinTD X3 (GB GB)

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

Hey Guys!

i buyed this Light to mod it …

when i disassemled it i noticed:

  • very good quality at all!
  • behind the Copper PCB, there was a dimple
  • another dimple on the driver side to reduce the thickmess from 5 to 2,3 mm
  • they used a good amount of thermal paste to fill the dimple
  • the driver has a second kontakt plate which prevents stacking 7135 easy on the spring side

Pics:

the dimple under the LED:


and the Drivers side:

soooo……

cut a pice off the 12m copper pole

after some alot filing and sanding u smashed notches into it to raise friction …

also notches in the Head
50

aand press it ! (greased with thermal paste)

used a little plate to level it with the Head

et voila!

mounted the LED (still domed) - the srews are gone meanwhile cause to thick)

I stacked 2 pcs AMC7135 380mA
no pix from my “soldering skilz” - i would be banned for abusing a LED driver :smiley:
i also changed the LED wires to some thicker ones - but didnt play with the (known as weak) tailcap…

but i have measurements:

(Amperes at Tailcap ( L / M / H )
18650 before: ? / 1,0 / 2,8 A
18650 after: 0,17 / 1,14 / 3,55 A
Eneloop after: 0,15 / 0,9 / 2,3 A

hope you like the inputs

2

Nice mod M4D M4X.

Just so you know, that copper board is not Sinkpad (which is a brand), it is just a regular copper board.

3

You certainly owned that dimple. Take that. You have upgraded the light nicely with basic tools. Well done and give our Kangaroos back.

4

That is a good-looking copper PCB. So all you had to do to up the current was use thicker wires?

5

no - I stacked 2 pcs AMC7135 380mA

-> edited the OP…

6

I finally got mine two days ago, the tailcap was literally giving me problems after a half dozen presses. The light is a nice hunk of aluminum, but I didn’t realize the Noctigon was too thick, and it’s not exactly a 17mm driver like I was told. Oh well!

Nice job though, I’m sure your soldering skills are no worse than mine.

7

Nice mod…and Ur’s have screws! Some of the posts in the GB said no screws for them.

Cheers

8

mine had no screws when delivered…

9

I got tons of screws but brothers got my drill press. Will sell brother cheap:)

Thx

10

Oh yeah, mine didn’t have screws.

11

Nice work!

12

Very nicely done. Now you need to reflow your LED on a Noctigon on top of all that good stuff you’ve done.

13

This a nice mod job! I filled in the dimple with a little copper, than used plenty of AS5, but didn't need near as much as with the dimple. Mine I have cranking at higher amps, and it does really well with the heat.

You are losing 2.8% output by using the stock copper board w/dielectric layer, vs. a Noctigon or SinkPAD -- look at 3.5A on the charts/graph here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/25978. But of course this doesn't account for other side effects, like heat over running it for several minutes.

14

I wouldn’t be worried about 2.8%, sounds like a case over ever diminishing returns for work done. How do you come to such a precise figure?

From your link

Sorry to be picky but without proper laboratory equipment I have no faith in the quoted figures.

15

Exactly - my point is the 2.8% is pretty insignificant. The 2.8% was easy to calculate from the picture of the notebook's recorded #'s. For 3.5A, SinkPAD is 888 and copper board is 863 - 2.8% difference.

Absolute #'s are somewhat rough, but relative #'s I have a higher degree of confidence in, just like the plotted graphs show. Lab equipment - that's funny. I work on the design of equipment that measures radiation emissions -- it's lab equipment, $5,000 to $12,000 cost. I have no more confidence in any that stuff on the market than I do my 35$ light meter.

16

@ Tom E: LOL! That last passage of your reply is pure genius!

17

I agree Tom, for lower band emission measurements we should use finest equipment available. :slight_smile: