Modding the Securitylng (Really?, Come on), SRK clone flashlight It's Finished, Beam shots are up!

Well, you already saw the photos from the tear down thread, but here's a few to tie in here and a link to that thread.sl1a

The original light.



The original driver, which we have determined to not use and go with a DrJones Master 8x7135 driver and two KD 8x7135 slave drivers instead. I will be adding chips to them. I am not sure how many because I don't know how many I have left.


The original led star on the original led shelf.


Where it screws into the light.


There are three evenly spaced holes in the original aluminum shelf and when I add copper, I will make use of those holes, to fasten the top and bottom copper discs together.


The modified shelf.


The bottom side.


In order to get the two plates soldered together, I used some 1/8" copper tube and cut short pieces that fit into the three holes in the original plate. Then I drilled the top and bottom copper discs and aligned it all. I used several pair of vise grips to hold everything together, while I heated it all and ran solder in and around the three holes, so that the discs and tube pieces were all soldered together and the pressure of the vise grips kept it all tight to the original aluminum shelf. It's not a lot more heat dissipation, but it will help and the copper stars that are coming will be soldered to the top copper disc. It's a no AA mod...


There were only two screws in the bottom contact plate, so I drilled and tapped the other two for some screws I had. Hey, it will work and that's all that counts.


A little bit of cosmetics to be done.


More, once I get stars and drivers. Sometime late next week or the first of the week after, since it's the holiday season.

I managed to get the leds on stars and the stars on the led shelf, but I had to drop the top copper disc, due to clearance problems. Probably not that big a deal as they are only Nichias anyhow.


The plastic spacers are just washers that have beend sanded down.


Now I have to clean the reflector. We know how that will work, don't we.

Now I wait for the drivers to get here.

I went ahead and did the resistor change for this light and for the other SRK clone. This light now has the driver from the other light and it has a resistor change.


Now it has one R025 resistor per channel and the 3rd channel with the long run has a wire added, to help cut resistance.


The driver now shows a little over 5 amps, so that's about right for three Nichias.


I bought some Glow paint. Looke pretty good.


Beam shots tonight, then it goes up for sale.









That's all folks. It's not a mega light. It's not meant to be. It's a high CRI neutral white light that doens't get real hot real fast, but it should have good runtime with some nice high drain cells in it.

:nerd_face: as usual.

With the fact that the stock driver does a little over 6 amps, maybe I should just use three Nichis 219 leds on copper stars and that would put a little over 2 amps into each of them. Neutral white goodness?

And you could save the XM-L2’s for another day!

Personally, I am too lazy and too impatient to do a lot of work and a lot of waiting for a small gain. What I think I will do when I get mine is just bridge the resistors and be happy with that. But then again, we shall see.

stock driver is fet direct driven. so drive current depend on LED and battery. for nichia 219, It could be over 2A or even less than 2A.

I am looking forward to finding out the easiest way to mod this light . I don't want to do anything but simple stuff . No reflowing or emitter swaps . No additional heatsinking ( I understand that I will not be able to really hotrod this light without these steps ) . Not going to change the driver . I'm just hoping to squeeze a little better performance out of it . I know one ( or more ) of the resident geniuses will figure out an easy way to do it .

Kind of excited about my first multi-emitter light - I ordered some protected cells from RMM to go in it .

I hope I made a good choice . ( It was a purely impulsive buy fueled by one too many 60 Minute Dogfish Head IPAs )

Mmmmm , Beer .

Sorry, I don’t get it. I don’t understand why or how that works.

As you said, that SRK stock driver draw 6Amps, that readings for XML2 LEDs and battery you used to measure.
Then if you connect nichia LEDs to that driver, we can’t say it draw 6A because that driver isn’t made to constant current.

Confusing to a layman.

I guess it's best to just strip it and use it as a contact plate. I just didn't want to use three drivers in this light, but it looks like the only way I can do it.

Beam Shots in Post #1

Another nice Mod ! RicFlair should enjoy this one too.