MTN Electronics: LEDs - Batteries - Lights - Chargers - Hosts - Drivers - Components - 1-Stop-US Source

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I updated my triple Nichia 219A, with triple Nichia 219Bs from RMM.

I’m impressed. The tint is awesome and it’s decently bright. At 3 amps, this triple is much brighter than my Zebralight SC62d, and colors look better than it too.

FWIW, I’m pretty happy so far with the single Nichia 219Bs I got on Noctigons. I’ve only put one into a light so far, but it looks great and I’ve been carrying it literally everywhere with me since I finished it. :slight_smile: The tint looks just a bit cooler than my L3 L10-219 lights, but that could merely be a difference between current-controlled drivers and PWM drivers (CC tends to look warmer / less white at low currents).

(finally made a stainless steel Convoy S7 into what it should have been all along)

Has anyone done match-style testing on a Nichia 219B? Assuming it has good heat sinking, I’d like to know what the performance is like over its amperage/voltage range and how much power it can take on copper.

I hereby officially nominate ToyKeeper for further “Match” style testing on the Nichia 219B with expectations of a thorough report back here on BLF for the greater good of the community! :slight_smile:

And our thanks, in advance, for a job well done! :wink:

<_<

>_>

It might help to nominate someone who actually has relevant equipment. :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

BTW, djozz did some testing on this, but he doesn’t think the emitter was quite the right one so the test results probably aren’t very useful.

If his results are accurate though, the 219B looks like it’s quite a bit more efficient than the 219A. But if it’s not actually the high-CRI version, that sort of result would be expected.

I’ll take the 5A driver.

Djozz used KD 219Bs, likely because they were the 1st to start selling them. KD is not the most reliable when it comes to tint/bin. They might not be real 219B R85 (92 typ CRI). Could be 219B R8000 or R70 instead.
Excellent testing regardless.

I received the Efest 26500 cells today. They fit in a DST without a problem, just a tiny bit longer than C cells but most importantly, the tube does not need to be bored.

Interested in the Ultrafire 602c if you’ve still got it.

Finally was able to get some VTC5 ordered. I had to order 500 to even get the deal going, but the payment has been sent and they are expected to be here by 5-19-14. You can pre-order here!

uuuummmm!

Just relieved you of 4 of the C5’s, with a special request attached. :wink:

Nice work Richard, really appreciate all you do….

Wish HKJ reviewed the SONY VTC5's... Really liking the LG HE2's which are used in the KP IMR 2500's. Very close to the Efest 35A's, but a little better according to HKJ's discharge charts at high amps (5A for example).

RMM - Are HE2's on your wish or find list?

Yes, they are on my list and was going to get some then the Efest purple and VTC5 became available again...I ordered about 800 total cells between those so they're going to have to wait until some of those are sold! I have a customer who has been testing both the Efest and HE2 and he swears that the Efest are just a rewrapped HE2, but I don't have both to compare physical construction/weight/etc. to verify that.

What whould be the cheapest way to get a M6 with a lot of Lumens?
(if someone can solder and do some metalwork - but dont programm ICs)

and a good compromise with runtime :wink:

M6 + Mod1? + which Batteries?

which driver-mods are different from Mod1 to Mod2?

and if i remember you once said that shipping batteries across the sea works only when they are in a light?

You can up the lumens without modifying the IC at all, just add sense resistors or bridge them then copper braid the tailcap springs. t For a good compromise of runtime + power just add another 50 ohm or so resistor to the existing bank, that should get you real close to 3000 lumens.

The only difference in the driver mods itself is the mode levels. The Mod 2 also includes emitters on Noctigons, copper braided tailcap, etc.

Yes, the batteries are supposed to be installed in a "device" whatever that may be.

Thanks!

What whould a DIY-Package cost?

  • M6
  • STAR Firmware on Driver (maybe not installed to save you time and us money)
  • some Resistors
    optional:
  • 2-4 different Packs of recommended Batteries
  • Emitters on Copper
  • Copper Braid
  • what i forget and you know to be usefull

Postage is iirc 15 USD to Austria?

I've got an exam in a few minutes, but later this afternoon I'll get a DIY parts kit together and posted on the site. Thanks for recommending it! I love it when I get good suggestions from you guys.

wish you good luck!

Good luck! I took my last final on Tuesday.

I’m also intrigued by this M6 DIY package, will have to add it to my list of things to buy from you. :stuck_out_tongue: