MTN Electronics: LEDs - Batteries - Lights - Chargers - Hosts - Drivers - Components - 1-Stop-US Source

I’ll take the 5A driver.

Djozz used KD 219Bs, likely because they were the 1st to start selling them. KD is not the most reliable when it comes to tint/bin. They might not be real 219B R85 (92 typ CRI). Could be 219B R8000 or R70 instead.
Excellent testing regardless.

I received the Efest 26500 cells today. They fit in a DST without a problem, just a tiny bit longer than C cells but most importantly, the tube does not need to be bored.

Interested in the Ultrafire 602c if you’ve still got it.

Finally was able to get some VTC5 ordered. I had to order 500 to even get the deal going, but the payment has been sent and they are expected to be here by 5-19-14. You can pre-order here!

uuuummmm!

Just relieved you of 4 of the C5’s, with a special request attached. :wink:

Nice work Richard, really appreciate all you do….

Wish HKJ reviewed the SONY VTC5's... Really liking the LG HE2's which are used in the KP IMR 2500's. Very close to the Efest 35A's, but a little better according to HKJ's discharge charts at high amps (5A for example).

RMM - Are HE2's on your wish or find list?

Yes, they are on my list and was going to get some then the Efest purple and VTC5 became available again...I ordered about 800 total cells between those so they're going to have to wait until some of those are sold! I have a customer who has been testing both the Efest and HE2 and he swears that the Efest are just a rewrapped HE2, but I don't have both to compare physical construction/weight/etc. to verify that.

What whould be the cheapest way to get a M6 with a lot of Lumens?
(if someone can solder and do some metalwork - but dont programm ICs)

and a good compromise with runtime :wink:

M6 + Mod1? + which Batteries?

which driver-mods are different from Mod1 to Mod2?

and if i remember you once said that shipping batteries across the sea works only when they are in a light?

You can up the lumens without modifying the IC at all, just add sense resistors or bridge them then copper braid the tailcap springs. t For a good compromise of runtime + power just add another 50 ohm or so resistor to the existing bank, that should get you real close to 3000 lumens.

The only difference in the driver mods itself is the mode levels. The Mod 2 also includes emitters on Noctigons, copper braided tailcap, etc.

Yes, the batteries are supposed to be installed in a "device" whatever that may be.

Thanks!

What whould a DIY-Package cost?

  • M6
  • STAR Firmware on Driver (maybe not installed to save you time and us money)
  • some Resistors
    optional:
  • 2-4 different Packs of recommended Batteries
  • Emitters on Copper
  • Copper Braid
  • what i forget and you know to be usefull

Postage is iirc 15 USD to Austria?

I've got an exam in a few minutes, but later this afternoon I'll get a DIY parts kit together and posted on the site. Thanks for recommending it! I love it when I get good suggestions from you guys.

wish you good luck!

Good luck! I took my last final on Tuesday.

I’m also intrigued by this M6 DIY package, will have to add it to my list of things to buy from you. :stuck_out_tongue:

Y’all see how Richard is, he don’t need no steenking luck for a mere law school exam! Not like it’s Rocket Science or anything…pshaaw

:wink:

Does any one know if you can switch out the carclo lens on the S3 EDC Triple XP-G2? Basically switch back and forward between 10507, 10508, 10509, 10511?

You should be able to, but with a caveat…the more you open it up and remove the components the more likely it is that something will go wrong. Switch it to see if you like one more than the other, you might try a beamshot comparo while the light engine is out of the head with the optics resting in place. Then put it back together and leave it alone. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it. :slight_smile:

Edit: Think of it like this, a good heart surgeon can go into your heart and make repairs, sucessfully. But how many times do you want him in there?
I’m finding that there’s something special about Pristine. The first build is the cleanest. The more times it’s messed with the uglier it becomes and the more likely it will fail.

Open heart surgery comparisons with a flashlight. Gotta love it. Lol. That’s basically what I was planning on doing. Buying all 4 lenses and seeing which one I like the best. Which one is your favorite? I don’t have a flashlight yet I was planning on buying on 5/19 when the new stock is in.

I have only test-fit those triple optics to a triple Noctigon, so I don’t have first hand assembly experience in a flashlight. My understanding is that the legs like to break off from twisting against the front of the light during assembly. Keeping all relevant surfaces lubed will help of course, but I think DBCstm is right - you really want to limit how much you take that thing apart.

“Oops, went in one too many times…killed it.”
“NEXT!”