Does anyone else have problems checking out on there cell phone at Richards store ?? I get to the end and does not load the payment page :( time to pull out the laptop
Thanks to a lot of help from ToyKeeper, the BLF A6 firmware is now available to order on the FET+7135 drivers and DIY parts kits, along with attiny13a MCUs. Big thumbs up to ToyKeeper for all of her hard work and for helping me work out everything. 
Sweeet! Thanks RMM and TK!
Just wanted to say thank you to Richard for always taking my extra money.
Seriously though, you’re great and I love your store 
I usually file the brass retaining ring to have a larger internal diameter to clear the chips on a 105C. Even a stacked set of chips. I’d rather do that than solder the driver in, that way any future changes are easy, I really don’t like the challenge of soldering to a large mass heat sink.
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Yuck! - That’s pretty mushy… 
Richard - Wanna know why your business continues to thrive and expand?
It’s because you give us Exactly what you would want - If the shoe were on the other foot!
Thanks for doing it Right! 
-Chuck
Ugh, more mush! Come on Chuck, be real. The reason the store is so well received is simple.
Lisa is AWESOME! :bigsmile:
Whoops! My bad… Forgot to mention that Richard ‘employs’ only the very finest packers!
LISA - Packer Extraordinaire!
Thanks for the reminder Dale,
-Chuck
Now we know why Dale is MTN Electronics's Best customer. 
I firmly believe that this statement is no longer true. File retaining rings?
Yep, RMM does rock, even for us upside down members of this planet.
I heard somewhere that mail packages may get detoured via some central USPS inspection center in recent years. Maybe shorter travel time to and from that starting from Utah vs. starting from Seattle.
Just guessing.
Been wondering if there’s any machine shop operator who could do a big batch of those, just adding a little step on the inside of the threaded rings to make that clearance.
Yeah, I know we’re flirting with the $25 light with the $20 clip and the $10 retaining ring — but in the longer term, since the threads on this part are apparently consistently done, across a lot of different pills/light heads, having rings available that fit them would be lovely.
I hear you. I am surprised that Simon/Convoy hasn't machined them thinner yet, since even they have to solder in the 8x7135 drivers and it would save them a production step.
Hm, I figured they’re just a stock thing he’d buy, not have made, since all the ones I find for sale seem to fit everything. Last reliable Lego in China.
Well, uh, how many would he need to have ordered, to do a batch? Any possibility of provoking him into improving the thing?
I’d take a couple of dozen, just as a hobbyist stash ….
Ah!
Trying to choose the best value 6A cell from your site. From HJK’s comparator the Efest 35A and the LG HE4 look real close while the Sony VTC5 which you don’t carry looks a bit better though probably costs more. For comparison I looked at the 5A and 7A charts and which curve stayed highest longest. Any thoughts? Also needs to be unprotected flat top minimum length. If I bought today I’d lean towards the LG cell but don’t have a lot of experience with hot rods(how appropriate?)Ike some others. Needs to support an XHP 50 at 6A. The cells I have that fit are 65.0 mm and I might scrounge another .5 mm by sanding the tail cap lip. Thanks.
Rufus, I would definitely go for the HE4. I think that the Efest is overpriced. The VTC5 is a better cell than either of those, but you can't get new ones anymore and anything you find now is either old stock or counterfeit. The 30Q is pretty much the performance equivalent of the VTC5 in the single-cell lights, but with the 2S LEDs you don't need that little extra voltage boost so I would go with the HE4 as being the best overall value right now in a high drain cell.
I got 3x 32650 Trustfires from Mtn recently. What can I use as a wrap if I want to take off the protection circuit? Or just cut the circuit off the bottom carefully?
You could use some 2” wide, clear packing tape.
-Chuck
On my 32650s that I removed the circuit on I was able to leave the factory wrapping in place. I used a knife and carefully made the circular cut around where the protection circuit and battery meet (there is an indent there that will help guide the knife). Next, I carefully pried up the protection circuit and disconnected it from the battery's negative terminal. The next step is the most dangerous: Next, you want to carefully cut the strip that runs up to the positive pole from the protection circuit. It is absolutely imperative that you don't let this strip contact the negative end of the case. I used some flush cutters for this. I then cleaned up the negative pole.
I have done this dozens of times on different batteries without incident, but I do also usually discharge them down a bit to around 3V first. I figure that at 3V or so if I do short it there won't be quite as much energy in there, although there is still plenty at 3V, make no mistake.
I wonder if that wouldn’t be a way to bring power to the tail of a light for an e-switch.