I’m waiting to get four for just that plan, a quad super thrower.
my plan is to put a 5000k in my FET XinTD X3 
should see some serious throw and output with a ncr18650pf
Several XP-L V3 2B are on their way from IO. One for Olight M3XS UT and one for a fully modded Courui. Results should be interesting…
I have 3 Courui’s both FETDDRMM drivers using 25R’s and vtc5’s with reflectors sitting on the mcpcb’s 32mm Noctigons screwed down on pressed in copper pills - (#1) HI-XPL 5000k 262-266kcd (#2) HI-XPL 5700 276-280kcd (#3)with a dedomed V5-1A I was getting 301-306 kcd according to my cheap CT1330B light/lux meter at 2 meters? My TK61V4 measured 666kcd not 740kcd? And using this converter… Lux to candela (cd) conversion calculator 
Kawi, that’s about what I’d expect… better by far than a domed emitter but lacking a little on a de-domed one. It DOES still have that skim of silicone across the die.
5 meters is more typical of testing distance for most lights, throwers are usually looked at from 15M for Lux testing.
I finished building this up last night!
Using Convoy S6:
Triple XPL-HI on Noctigon:
…With the DD FET driver, and one of the new LG 3000mAh High-Drain cells, IT LIVES!
This light was built using the technique I mentioned here:
…only with a couple of modifications. As the wall of the PEX plug are not extremely thick, I found a brass pipe nipple that was the exact diameter to make a tight fit within the ID of the spacer I’m using. After cutting the plug to the length needed, I cut a piece of the nipple down to fit, then soldered it into the ID of the plug. I then filed/sanded the junction until it was a flat surface that would seat perfectly against the S6’s brass pill. I then soldered the plug/spacer to the pill, and finally, soldered the Noctigon directly to the spacer. It now has a DTP from the emitter, all the way through to the body of the light.
My next step will be to braid-bypass the switch spring.
Unfortunately, I don’t have an amp meter that can read the higher current levels, so I have no way of quantifying this light’s output. It is significantly brighter than my previous triple, XP-G2 @ 3A in a S3 host.
8) 8) 8)
10507 carclo?
can we see the hot spot on a wall at 10ft plz?
I am very curious how well the XPL Hi beam pattern is with a 10507.
I don’t have the means to make a quality beamshot at this time but maybe this will help:
Taken with my cell phone, white balance set to “Daylight”, against a light-gray wall.
Even with this narrow optic, I would call this light “floody”. It’s less impressive indoors, but outside at night, makes a WALL of light.
now that looks good! thank you very much,!
Finally a single emitter version.
what kind of clearance did you have between the 10507 and the XP-L HI’s? I squashed one of my XP-L HI’s tightening the pill too much in my S6.
The HI clears the optic perfectly, BUT the die is so light it might ride high on excess solder paste and pressing it down to push out the excess solder can (and many times will) lead to a short under the emitter.
yep, that’s pretty much the sum of it. It would be easier if I had a mask for the paste.
I just had this happen last night… I replaced the emitter in my STL-V2 clone with an XPL-HI, reflowing onto a 26mm Maxtoch board. Everything was centered properly, but the emitter ended up at an angle, with one end riding higher, where it had floated high on the solder paste. I’ll have to pull the emitter, clean up the solder, then try reflowing again to get it right…
Maybe pre-tin?
Would it help to pre-tin the mcpcb, file it smooth so it’s a bare minimum layer, then apply the emitter and re-flow? I’ve even had the solder paste masking stencil allow too much (most likely my bad, not keeping the stencil flat)
Well, damn. That didn’t work.
I want to be able to measure high-output lights like a triple-XP-L HI, but they’re so bright that they blow out my light box. So I decided to get a neutral density filter to tone down the output, thus letting me measure an order of magnitude more light.
Here’s what happened after just 5 seconds with my Cypreus:
This following is my opinion and the reason while I hold it. If you like stencils, and they work for you, that's great--this is just an alternate viewpoint to consider. Don't take it personally, OK? 
I think that the solder paste stencils for MCPCBs aren't that great in practice. I've tried them and for me, they just don't work well enough to be worth the hassle.
I think that doing it by feel/experience is much better than what a stencil will do most of the time. Doing it without the stencil is much faster and cleaner as well (am I the only one that hates cleaning up a dirty stencil?). There is too much variation in MCPCB pad sizes and depths to consistently achieve good paste coverage--especially on the bigger LEDs. For example, if you were to use one on an XHP70 or MT-G2 Sinkpad, the thermal pad would probably only get about 50% solder coverage. The volume of paste required to fill those deep voids is quite large--so large that it requires mounding the paste so that there is enough solder to mostly fill the void once the flux gets out of there (the flux comprises a large portion of the paste's volume). The Sinkpads seem to have the deepest thermal pad voids, but some of the Noctigons have deeper-than-ideal-voids as well, depending on the MCPCB type and production run. With some experience you can look at an MCPCB, gauge the depth of the voids, and meter the correct amount (or close to it) accordingly.
Instead of pressing down on the LED to remove excess solder, keep your clean iron tip handy. While the offending raised LED is still floating you can touch the excessively loaded pad with with the iron to easily suck away the excess solder.
And there you have it, when you’re exceptionally skilled AND can pass the BAR, no stencil required!
Me? I like stencils, use them for virtually everything. Doing 10mm drivers is SO much easier, mounting an MMU on the flash board is SOOOOOO much easier with a stencil. MT-G2, XHP-70, SBT-70, you name it, I stencil it.
But that’s just me, YMMV.
Hint: Denatured alcohol on a paper towel wipes solder paste right off a stencil. If you let the paste dry, it’s not as easy but still no big chore. Different strokes for different folks. 
Hey man, reflowing MMUs is a different subject...those really can be a pain, even for someone as skilled as I! 