OFFICIAL Group Buy UF-1504, UF-1504 host, UF-1405, tail switch, 26650 batteries DISCOUNT CODES EXPIRED!!!!!!!!

I received my extra Alu-pill from gearbest today, and did exactly this. With 20awg wires it seemed to pull just a little more than 4A when I tested with keeppower imr 4200mah 26650 battery. I made test cables that were maybe 4 mm thick, so shouldn’t I get another amp or so?

You may get a tiny bit more with 18awg wires but it gets harder to fit beneath the mcpcb retainer.

But over 4A is already more than the 3.76A for 458 kcd with the same battery but with an FET driver that n10sivern got when he tested a bunch of leds with the 1504.

I would be very satisfied with that if I where you, the high flux bins XP-G2s is very hard to get much more out of with a single battery.

If you want a bit more Amp pulled & a thicker beam maybe pick up a XM-L2 U4 & build it the same in another pill, they can pull that 1A extra amp :wink:

Anyway thanks for testing amp on a true DD build, i have been very curious about how much the FET driver limits current.

I don’t have any 18awg wires, so I’m good with the 20awg.

I haven’t dedomed any leds yet, so it’s still with the dome on, and ~250 kcd according to n10sivern’s test.

it looks like i have a nicely modded aspherical DD thrower now then! I could try de-doming for even more throw, but I don’t know if i’m willing to learn how to dedome yet :stuck_out_tongue:

since I moved from the countryside to a city last year, I don’t get to use my flashlights very much unfortunately. it was quite fun to get out dark nights with the btu shocker and spot animals on the fields…

A dedome is easy, in Sweden you can pick up the equivalent to Coleman fuel = Kemiskt Ren Bensin :wink: på vilken ICA som helst.

Just put the led + mcpcb in the gas over nigh & then rinse it of with some alcohol. Or maybe even dunk the whole top of the pill straight in the gas without the mcpcb retainer or o-rings, if you don’t want to desolder it. Kemiskt ren bensin should evaporate without leaving any gas stank.

If you used heatpaste under the mcpcb in the alu pill, you might have to reapply some to get good heatsinking if you dunk the pill in gas, but if you soldered the mcpcb to the brass pill you should be good to go :wink:

hmm, might look after some ‘kemiskt ren bensin’ if i remember next time. would probably like to try some xp-e/xp-g in sk68, and also a de-dome in my T20. I have some bad tints that i wouldn’t miss…
don’t have any alcohol to rinse it with though, is that needed?

Isopropyl alcohol is your friend for cleaning any dirt in a computer/electronic world. You can buy it in any computer parts shop.

TomE gasoline de-doming method(you got Blyfri 95/98 gas?) is the best of all for me... And I can say that I tried all methods. Same tint shifting as with any other de dome method if done under 1 hour (it can be done in 50 minutes).

I did DD XP-G2 build also, posted specs somewhere in the thread. Meausred 4.3amp tailcap with my DMM.

Chicken Drumstick, was your XP-G2 a S4 flux bin though? Because the S4 seems to have a higher Vf leading to less amp in DD than most other XP-G2’s.

luminarium iaculator, “kemiskt ren bensin” or Coleman fuel is gas but without the stinky(& toxic) additives, that leaves the led & mcpcb smelling like gas for months :Sp

My personal favourite is to dedome with cellulose thinner, but that is much more expensive in Sweden & harder to find than kemiskt ren bensin=chemically pure gasoline. For some reason they sell that on the same shelf as the nail polish remover in many food shops here.

And strangely Isopropyl alcohol, is almost impossible to find here……, you can buy a tiny amount from the pharmacist but at a huge markup, if some one wants to find Isopropyl alcohol here in Sweden the closes you can find at sane prices is Turtle wax ICE Remover. That is Isopropyl alcohol+blue colouring.

OscarM, I think it could be possible to do a kemiskt ren bensin dedome, without rinsing it with alcohol. But i haven’t done it myself but as far as i know kemiskt ren bensin should evaporate without any residue.

In Sweden you can’t buy any pure alcohol (typ Läkarsprit) without nasty additives, so I use Polish 96% Spirytus to clean my dedomes :wink: You can buy it in Denmark or Germany. But i guess you could rinse it with T-Röd also or Isopropyl alcohol in the form of Turtle wax ICE Remover.
I think it could be possible to rinse with distilled water also, but i haven’t tried that myself.

That should not be like that or it should be if done improperly. After gas de doming use of isopropyl alcohol is must. One small bath and there is no gas smell.

But if you can't get iso that is different story.

Why after building my 1504 I feel like the LED is not sitting now enough. If I unscrew the bezel a bit and set the lens just a fractions of mm further, it focuses better. But right now even at full extent, there is some blur.

I’m using a dome-on xm-l2 U4 1C in 16mm noctigon, soldered directly to the pill. O-ring is already under the lens.

Dedoming will help? O should I sand the noctigon to half the thickness?

I did that a few times, once to solve focus problems in an aspheric, a few times in a small EDC to solve battery fit problems. Not the easiest job

Ok, i have done regular gas dedome’s with Swedish 95okt & rinsed it very well with pure ethanol, and that didn’t remove the gas smell.

As far as i know isopropyl & ethanol should be same as far as it solvent abilities. So either it isn’t & isopropyl alcohol is better or Swedish gas have some extra funky smelling additives, i know there are regional differences in the gas mix.

Gas should be same at each gas station in Europe. Maybe U have extraordinary smell sense :)

Good point. It was an S2 1D as Hank recommends them for the tint when de-doming. And I can attest, the tint is brilliant.

No it is not the same gas in every gas station in Europe.
For example in the Northern countries they mix the gas differently depending on the season because of the colder winter months.
And i think they have generally more ethanol mixed in year around also.

But you have most likely right about an possible above average sense of smell :wink:

I didn’t consider that because for me that is normal, but i remember i asked my Father some time after the mod, if he could smell the gas stank on the modded light with the gas dedomed led+mcpcb & he couldn’t sense it, but to me it smelled so strongly the light & air around the shelf i had the light on reeked of gas for weeks before it subsided.
And i haven’t read any other complaints about stinky dedomes here at BLF.

So yeah you are right :slight_smile: That could be it.

Good to know about fuel. That means that you guys have top quality fuel there.

They are stinky, and gas smelling if they are not handled in bath.

OK I think I discovered what it could be. That could be odor fatigue . Strong gas fumes can stay in a nose for quite a long time.

ANy updated 1504 codes? The first page ones expired

Is this 1504 host groupbuy still active?


1-propanol and ethanol are fairly similar as the hydroxy group is at the end of the carbon chain, but isopropanol's hydroxy group is on the center carbon atom. Being flanked on both sides by CH3 groups makes it less polar (less water-like), so I think a better solvent for long chain hydrocarbons in gasoline.