Opple Light Master 4 discussion thread (new 2023 model)

Considering all those emitters are R9080, and they all have R9 ≥80, they’re within spec. Ra and R9-R15 will always vary between individual emitters, even if they’re right next to each other on the reel. If every 219B, 519A, E21A etc. had R9>90 Nichia would definitely say that. Nichia even specs a minimum R9 of 80 or 85 for Optisolis, but a minimum Ra of 95.

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LED specifications for high R9 are typically labeled as R9080, indicating a CRI (Ra) above 90 and an R9 value above 80. At least, that’s how it’s advertised on Hank’s website. I don’t recall ever seeing specifications that claim an R9 value above 90.

I find the Opple HOME 3.3.1 particularly useful for identifying low-R9 LEDs among those with above-average CRI.

On the other hand, most versions I’ve come across have performed well with R9080 LEDs, and I haven’t noticed any unusual readings from these LEDs. I had most problems with leds with low R9 readings.

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If I like to try the other versions of Opple Home that you listed, do I need to uninstall 3.3.1v1 first? TIA

I haven’t tried it myself, but based on the description, it seems possible to install multiple versions of the reverse-engineered APK files. On my phone, I have both the official app and version 3.3.1 installed, and they appear as separate apps.

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Sometimes green is merely a profound lack of red. There are reasons why codes specify that lighting used in medical facilities where examinations or treatment are performed have an R9 that dogfarts simply cannot even get close to.

It doesn’t help that there is some inconsistency in the definition of CRI. Some use Ra (R1-8) while some use Re (R1-14). One allows a high R1-8 to compensate for bad red rendering while the other omits Deep Red entirely. That’s one reason I like Ra/R9 notation like 9080 instead of a generic CRI rating that could literally perfect at all non-red colors and still get that “jaundiced zombie” action going.

I’m not sure if the 6000K has a far lower R9 than the 4000K, but I’ve seen a Colormunki measure the older 4000K TS10’s at an R9 of 79-91 depending on level. Then again, I’ve also heard that some of the newer CSP2323’s are 9050 instead of 9080. Some batches also had a far higher duv.

So, which TS10 did you use?

I happen to own several TS10 flashlights. The data in my previous post is specifically from the red TS10 with a 6000K LED.

The 6000K version has a significantly lower R9 value than 4000K version, which is well-documented. You can refer to the reviews by koef3 and zeroair for more details:

  • LatticePower CSP2323 6000K (Wurkkos TS10, reviewed by koef3)
    CRI: 93, R9: 67, Duv: 0.0033 (output level: not specified)
  • LatticePower CSP2323 4000K (Wurkkos TS10, reviewed by zeroair)
    CRI: 96, R9: 91, Duv: 0.0027 (output level: 5/7)

Today, I received two HD10 flashlights I ordered a couple of weeks ago. I decided to compare it with my TS10 collection, as both use the same LED. Interestingly, the Duv values across all samples fall within a similar range. For my measurements, I used the reverse-engineered 3.3.1 app. The output for all lights was measured at level 5/7, with the sensor positioned 50 cm away.

Fig1. Measurements from LM4 3.3.1

Fig2. manual mode WB set at 5000K

Fig3. auto mode

Regarding your comment:

I don’t believe the CSP2323 has ever been advertised as R9080. At least, I haven’t seen credible evidence of the 6000K version achieving high R9 values. However, the 4000K version consistently demonstrates high R9 in numerous instances. For example, I recently ordered an HD10 with a 4000K LED, and the specifications appear unchanged for that CCT.

On the other hand, the 6000K LED in my latest purchase has the lowest R9 value (below 50) among my TS10 units and exhibits the strongest green tint (although not by much). Of course that R9 number should not be taken seriously. I think it would be useful only when I compare them with my other measurements.

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I was also interested in vintage/generation. The first-batch TiTS10 left some mistrust of the CSP2323 that lasted long enough for the D3AA to come out and make me lose interest in getting more TS10s. (I already have a dozen!) Based on that pic there, it seems that the lights you have are not from that batch.

No, and with the big R9 gap between the 4000K and 6000K, I doubt we will. Seems easier to leave that off than confuse people with extra stats and distinctions.

In other words, treat the LM as an estimator that lacks the precision of instruments 10-100 times the price and is better as a reference tool than a empirical measurement :slight_smile: