Sure. http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=242
Simon has spacer gaskets too
The last one - the butterfly spacer will work with any reflector hole size, so I’d get that one.
Most important, kapton or electrical tape over your positive lead on the LED board. I have lost a couple of drivers and switches due to shorting the + lead to the reflector. The reflector is essentially a ground or a direct short across the LED if it hits both leads.
Kapton tape is thinner, but regular electrical tape does well too. Even with the spacer for the LED, your soldering may not lay flat enough and can make contact, safe practice to cover it. I seem to regularly forget this, but I feel OK helping to send Richards kiddies to college with my mistakes… 
That is great info. Thank you! I actually put a roll of kapton in my cart, it looked important. I just didn’t know how to use it.
I may end up doing driver swap in the c8 first. I would hate to destroy the fet driver. Cheaper to mess up qlite =/
Go slow and enjoy the build Jake… There are plenty of pitfalls, the one I listed about shorting the driver with the reflector has been the most aggravating to me. The build is almost done and perhaps tested… Then pooof, the whole thing is a reset. The last one I had happen was an aluminized plastic reflector, I did not think about that one… Toasted a 3A Qlite with moppydrv…
The S2+ has the threaded pill that makes putting the thing together a bit different. I usually put a finger through the front (wear disposable nitrile or latex gloves) and press on the lens and reflector assembly while screwing the pill back in, keeps a lot alignment issues minimized.
My C8’s have all been different enough builds that I did not have the same issues in any of them. The XPL HI in the C8 I had to focus by using just Kapton tape to insulate the reflector and putting it against the noctigon…
Good luck and do not get defeated!
But it won’t center the LED in any sized reflector. That butterfly one is specifically for use with XP- sized reflectors. With XM- sized reflectors it will only insulate, not center.
In fact, I believe that the M1 includes a special centering ring / spacer. If this ring focuses correctly you have two three options:
- Use the stock centering ring and “spin to center” the XP sized emitter. See this post #10 by will34 for an example of this technique.
- Use the stock centering ring and purchase an adapter from Hoop for $2. Hoop - FS : LED centering rings / positioning / insulating - made to your specs.
- Provide Hoop with the measurements from the stock part so that Hoop can make a whole new centering ring for the XP sized LEDs in an M1.
The M2 has a centering ring for XML. With a XPL or XPG it will center with a little shaking and trial and error. The corners of the XPL will line up with the center of the flats on the XML ring.
2 squares smaller one in the center turned 45 degrees .
Hope I am making since.
When it comes in I will hopefully understand how to center the xpl.
What led is m1 made to accept?
The light is not what is made for a specific LED, the reflector through hole is. The M1 reflector has a hole big enough (designed for) a X*M*L sized LED (5mm x 5mm ?) and will fit the smaller X*P*G and X*P*L sized LED’s.
Your larger XML centering ring will also fit the XPL HI just fine with a little patience. You will see it when you go install it. It will look like a square inside a square, or a diamond shape in a box…
Maybe others can chime in here but I found the forward clicky from Mountain to be to tall to fit the M1. Likely can be modded somehow but I’ve never tried. Once I got used to reverse clicky I decided I liked it better anyway.
I can visualize the diamond in box now thank you.
If the switch is too tall, is there another one that will fit? The one I already ordered can probably go on a c8
FWIW I also posted a link to a picture of exactly that in post #8, just in case you harbored any lingering uncertainty.
I had to click the link but the pic referred to is exactly the way my XPL is centered in my M2 with an XML spacer and it’s spot on. Looks cool too. 
Thanks Wight!
I am glad I have received so much help, no way I would have been able to even try this without guidance.
I am shopping around for a haako clone 936 like hobby king sells. I bought a bit set on eBay.
Price sure does add up fast i hope it all works well.
Here is solder station I think I should buy.
Does this seem good enough?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/311362367381?ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F0%2Fe11063.m43.l1123%2F7%3Feuid%3De86062c0cf714fbeaef69af4abc39402%26loc%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fcgi.ebay.com%252Fws%252FeBayISAPI.dll%253FViewItem%2526item%253D311362367381%2526ssPageName%253DADME%253AX%253ABOCOR%253AUS%253A1123%26srcrot%3De11063.m43.l1123%26rvr_id%3D0&\_mwBanner=1
The one linked above is the one I have, more than sufficient. Heats fast and holds temp well enough for anything I have done.
My one hint for this station, especially when soldering leads to Noctigons or other heat sucking items, Use the biggest tip you can, this transfers the heat better. I think you said you have a ten pack of tips coming, if it is the mixed tips, use the one that looks like a rod with an angle cut on it.
I just flux with a toothpick the noctigon and put a small blob of solder on it, then flux the pre tinned wire from the driver…. I put the wire on the solder blob, and push down on the insulation right next to the solder blob. I then use the angle cut tip on a hot setting and press the wire onto the solder blob with it. When the solder melts, the pressure from the push down on the insulation makes the wire sink into the solder blob. Lift the iron away and then a few seconds later when the blob has solidified, take the pressure off the wire on the insulated part.
Cant wait to hear of your success with your build! Perseverance may be needed, but stick with it!
The first spacer you linked is the one you will need…
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_82&product_id=242
thank you guys, I put a second order in at mtn, and requested they combine the two to save the shipping charge for two litte spacers. ( extra cant hurt)
that 9mm one looks like the ones sold by simon. I did not order it, and he already shipped my order =/
that is great advice. thank you. I am exited to try this out. if it works alright, it could be a new hobby.
when you are done and the wire hardens in, do you need to add any more blob on top? or clean up what is there? Also dou you stick the kapton tape over whole driver expept led?
the pack of tips does have that tip with the angle cut. I will use that one. the flux I ordered looks like a liquid, not a paste, is that going to be alright?
this station looks slightly different that the 936b I posted previously. the top cooling area seems different. I offered $24 ill see if he accepts
http://www.ebay.com/itm/361195877186?\_trksid=p2055359.m2763.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT