Hey folks so we don’t see to many build threads on BLF any more, you don’t even see many flashlight modifying threads. So i thought i would upload the build of pipe dream v3.
What is pipe dream? well the name comes from my first scratch build that looked like a pipe b*mb hopefully the newer versions no longer like that lol.
V2 is a good light and has given me a base to work from and plus i still have 1 meter of copper pipe left as i had to buy 1.5 meters so its either this or do me some plumbing.
The locking mechanism although crude is actually fully functional and has been used dozens of times so far. The V2 feels good enough to carry as a EDC.
So far this time i am trying to build three lights in one go with one light going to be a V4, which should hopefully have some kind of crude knurling on it.
Knurling might be a slight over statement i am trying to get straight lines on the battery tube using a rotary tool, i need a cut of wheel that won’t clog with copper but i have not seen any for sale that fit the Dremel style tools.
So far i have used a pipe cutter, rotary tool and my mini files.
Using a heavy grease or a wax as a lubricant would be a way to help prevent your rotary tools from loading up from the copper. Apply light pressure during the cuts.
Tools with flutes, like carbide burs, or saws with actual teeth, should have less of a tendency to load up than abrasive wheels. It’ll be difficult to achieve nice lines on the body without having your tubing mounted on a mandrel, running true, rotating relative to your cutting tool. You’ve probably got a plan in mind to mount it on a dowel in a drill or drill press? Then you’ll need steady hands with good elbow and wrist support so the cut stays on track.
Thanks for the tips i will give it a try, i was going to try and build something out of wood for the lines mainly to keep the blade/cutoff wheel straight. I would like to give free hand a go first and see how bad it is. I will try just a few straight lines first just so the tube is not plain.
yea the reducer i had to be cut down as it was for the Milwaukee crimping tool the shop didn’t have the normal solder fittings, surely not every plumber uses a crimp tool now days instead of soldering.
Plus I have a Sofirn C8G sorta half modded. I have all the parts and emitters are reflowed. Other parts of life are getting in the way. New fencing, road work, etc at the cabin because of use the wildfire that went thru last April. And some remodel work at our son’s home. It will just take some time.
Can you do things in winter? like fencing or renovations? we don’t get snow here so i am curious. Even in winter here which i would call mild things take ages to dry and set.
The cabin is non accessible at times in winter. It varies with snowfalls. This past winter saw so much snow we didn’t even think of trying from mis Dec to April. Other winters we have driven once a month, timed between snows. Or we used to snowshoe, but we quit that a few ago when trail breaking became too much likee hard work instead of fun.
Never did much work there in winter as the ground freezes. Freezes deeper with little snow.
Winter reno’s. … …Depends. Yes to many things. The current job involves floor ceramic tile and the home has no interior heated space suitable for using a wet tile saw. Freezing temperatures outside make that a no go.
I have used brass parts parts in the past they work good its a good mix between usability and strength and you can solder to brass. We have a competition every year Called the Old lumens challenge, where we build lights from scratch using all sorts of stuffs, save your parts for the competition their are prizes
Its not done yet i did sand the body and the head and i polished it up to see how much work it needs. The head seems to be a casting and not milled and you can see the imperfection in it. Not sure if its worth to try and get them out as some marks can not be felt.
