Please put me on the list.
Welcome to BLF jama, will update OP later
I am fluid in a lot of things here so if improvements can be designed I will keep all those ideas in my mind
Yet it must be clear we strive for the fastest way to get this materialized so even if a better design is available like the tail PCB IF Thorfire goes with a more old fashioned one I will be content (and glad TA made it available on Oshpark I just know a guy I want to gift a soda can light to and sure I will order those tail PCBs before I do 
)
I`m interested, Please put me on the list:)
Yes will update OP later
Wow, nearly a hundred pages of brainstorming…
In my humblest of opinions i think you might forget to keep it simple.
That is, as simple as possible.
I mean, fuses? Eight of them, really?
Just recommend using protected cells.
Button top discussions too?
What’s wrong with some good nickeled Neodymiums or blobs of solder?
.
And to make this post even more 
annoying:
Why not 3 emitters, so their individual reflectors can be larger?
With 4 protected cells you can deliver at least 16 Amperes, that would be 5.33 A per LED.
[EDIT] Sorry, i just noticed it’s gonna be 4, period…[/EDIT]
(Low Vf emiters if possible so you can enjoy your mAh’s and avoid the need for boost or 2p2s config.
Although i realise you all want buckets of lumens and need high voltage anyway…)
And since there’s room in the head, and most of us have 2.1 A USB wallwarts lying around, why not a micro USB charging port? (yes, that is added complexity, but eliminates hassle)
Charging at 0.5 A per cell is not too bad, is it?
just my annoying 2 cents…
PS: If you can keep it under $ 50.— you can put me on the list too.
Good input, but fyi - I don't see how it's close to possible to get 5.33A per LED for 3 LED's from protected cells - not with today's high Vf emitters, maybe a chance with the lower Vf 219C's. I've posted #'s of a pretty comparable 4X SRK clone, and with spring bypass's, high performance FET we plan to use (SIR800DP), XM-L2 U3 3D's on DTP copper, still could only get 4A per LED (16A total) on fully charged Samsung 30Q BT's. We discussed early on about 3X vs. 4X vs. 5X, and the 4X is a nice compromise between flood and throw, and cost for that matter. Actually the extra output you get with the 4th LED makes up a lot of the lost throw from the smaller reflectors.
Post #2306, mentioned here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/39069/2304
Post #1813, temp readings: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/39069/1811
Post #1711, original mod details post: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/39069/1709
Since they’re limited to 4 A each, you can draw 16 A of 4 cells, divided by 3 (that was before i found out it is decided there will be 4 emitters) equals 5.33 Amperes
With 4 emitters you have 4 Amperes per emitter, which is not too exiting…
How about XP-G3? A.f.a.i.k. it’s about as low Vf as 219C and also available in high CRI.
But i’m sure you have all discussed this already.
I have only read 15 pages of this thread.
I didn’t yet know it was decided to go for 4 emitters when i wrote my post. Sorry…
But it means wanting 25% more current.
I will read into it, thank you.
Just got the feeling maybe it’s getting over complicated and too expensive as a consequence.
None the less, how about that charging port?
It will reduce wear from the batteries sliding over the driver PCB too.
PS: Charente. 
I’m near Montbron couple times a year.
Jerommel, this could just be me giving another meaning to the word brainstorming but:
We have seen a driver designed, tested, redesigned and now in the hands of Thorfire engineers.
Parts including the PCB can be ordered.
We have seen major overhauls and bug squashes on Narsil.
Narsil can be downloaded and flashed.
We have seen a tail PCB being designed with unprecedented safety and modding features.
The parts including the PCB can be ordered.
We have seen almost all details debated and along the way decisions were made what would be included as default/stock specs
Yes it is a long topic yet all major decisions and parts were accompanied by a title change with normally a link to the post where the discussion could be picked up.
We have and are open for all input and by doing the title changes and keep a lot in the OP found a way to avoid losing a lot in the ever growing topic.
Keep it simple is the goal
Good heat sinking, good quality build, good quality control, nice tinted LEDs. A light worthy of using and modding for a long time to come.
Yet at the same time we have to wait and well if things do not add costs to make we use the time otherwise frustrating for designs of parts not set or agreed upon. With the clear notion things like dual LED padded, termiresistor padded LED board would be ideal if Thorfire brings us a more regular DTP ledboard with just the XP pads that is according to specs.
Same with the tail PCB
So I must conclude that brainstorming is a word meaning wild ideas to be filtered down and not needing to be practical, the things actually materialized during this voyage make it much more to me then that.
Maybe it’s just me who would probably drown in details and options…
Anyway, i’m now subscribed to this topic and you can put me on the list too.
J.
I’m on if sub 50€ :+1:
Interested, can put me on the list?
Cool! 
I'm sure USB charging was mentioned somewhere in these 1,000's of posts, but at this point it's tuff for any changes, and we are on a tight budget with this one. Also USB charging would reduce wear&tear on the threads and the driver batt+ contact ring for sure. Of course I'd like to see 2A charging at a min, but 6A would be great! But, I don't have much confidence in USB charging done the right way when trying to keep costs down. There's a lot of junk USB charging out there, clearly the better lights do it well, but to me it would be a big risk unless the design was a direct drop-in from something well proven and tested.
Post #483 on USB charging: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/39069/483
My comments early on, post #507: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/39069/507
Isn't "Search Within Thread" a great feature of this forum? Best thing that happened with the last major upgrade. 
I agree, if there is a feature I can live without in this light it is USB charging. While it would be nice if budget was not a concern, I simply do not trust USB charging internally in lights and would only use it in an emergency.
It also only has an accuracy of 1%, that means the final voltage could be as high as 4.24 volts! That will vastly shorten the life of your cells.
Which comes back to what we were saying, it is easy to do internal charging. Doing it properly on the other hand is not nearly as easy.
For a lot of us it is simply not worth the risk except in an emergency situation. I would never charge my batteries internally nor recommend others do so unless there are no other options.
Now if there are no other options then internal charging is great but is the extra cost worth it?
I would prefer 4.1 anyway.
This was just what i found on ebay.
Never mind.
There’s room to build something in, we’ll see.
I’m having a hard time with these two contradictory statements.
- “This design is getting too complicated!”
…
- “I know, lets add on-board charging!!! That will require an entire new PCB or a complete redesign of the existing one, and the addition of a DC input of some sort. What? water proofing the charge port? Oh, yeah, probably a good idea. Charge level indicator…oh, ummm”
Yeah, that’s not going to reduce the level of complexity.
You’re right.
Interested, could you add me to the list for one.
i think usb charging is not ideal wireless charging would be way cooler jsut put the light on any available charging pad