Are there any recommended batteries out there? Currently I am using the LG HG2, they are rated for a max output of 20A with a capacity of 3000mAh. These tend to suit quite well for vaping, and other high drain applications.
HG2’s will work great as long as they are either button tops or you add a solder blob.
No, but thought bout that because it can be killer on very low amp long runs.
Yea, the table is a great ref, but don't think she took into account MCU draw on the low amps, or battery drain on the high amps - couple real world factors I think are missing.
Is this chinese crap (or generally chinese wires) will be a problem for solder blobbing?
It should work ok, get some flux if you have issues, the solder itself is generally usable in those cheap wires but the flux generally sucks.
I will say that I have never had anything flow as nice as the kester #66/245 63/37 .025” solder I tracked down last year. That stuff is a thing of beauty. No clean flux and flows like a dream.
+1 with TA, probably ok with good amt of flux. All I use is Kester - one spool is a lifetime supply for me. Even with Kester, I use extra flux on the battery tops - helps big time, and use a large chisel shape tip to get plenty of heat on the cap. I then clean it up with isop. alcohol - removes the residue, shines up the solder.
Barry is back from his holiday and…. Q8 proto 3 are on route, if good we label them samples and w, well you know what 
Wow. crosses fingers that these get it right!
Oh yeah sleeping next to the mailbox nowadays
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Thanks for the great detail, ToyKeeper!
I eagerly await the Q4096 (which will be nothing but a cutting laser hooked to a deep cycle battery).
“Check out my beamshots!” posts a series of pictures of holes burned in walls, trees, wildlife
The 2mA figure was a guess. I don’t have a Q8 prototype to actually measure. I’ve gotten 2.XmA in moon mode on other lights though, and the Q8 has a less-leaky driver, so it might be realistic. Or maybe the lowest mode is 3mA, or 4, or 5… And it’s tricky to guess what exact level the light is at during use. The point was just to demonstrate the range and shape of the runtime/output curve.
Yeah, the chart is a good guess, I was just curious how it was getting such a low moon power draw. I thought you knew it was drawing 2ma.
The lack of the voltage divider (or the higher resistance divider if it is still being used in the Q8), should indeed reduce the draw and could possibly reach 2-3ma.
The exact method of calculating perceptual brightness is still up for debate, but I’ve been using the one selfbuilt recommended — cube root.
So, at 5000 lm, that’d give a “perceptual brightness” of 17.1 arbitrary units. To reach 34.2 perceptual units, it would need to emit 40,000 lm.
Although lights keep getting brighter and more powerful, I don’t think that will be happening any time soon… Moore’s Law doesn’t apply to lumens and power. I mean, it could be done, but it’d be an incredibly large light, expensive, and probably wouldn’t sell well. But you could go out and buy some aircraft hangar bulbs like FlashPilot did. IIRC those make 25,000 lm each.
Nope.
But you can reflash the Q8 later if you want, to add more disco modes. Or you could reflash other lights with that sort of thing; the Crescendo UI includes a bunch of (optional) party strobes and such if you want ramping and blinkies in a clicky-switch light. Follow the Link in my signature to find out more.
Well some one came up with vantablack the really black, so we just need some up to come up with the vanta LED the really bright LED’s.
Thank you Yokiamy. :+1:
Yeah, that one on the right looks pretty crappy, to me anyway. :+1: … Where did it come from??
Center one looks good. Have you been able to determine if it is spot welded …. or just held on by the white washer and what appears to be clear shrink wrap??
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EDIT:
I found it. The crappy looking one came from NKON & the better looking one came from Banggood. 
Y’all are nuts. You’re talking about perceptual brightness as it appears after landing downrange. Lumens are measured coming out of the front of the light. Shine 5000 lumens directly in your eyes and see if you can remember cubic root formulas. 
Edit: Lets look at that a bit differently. The Thrunite TN42 that I had made some 2500 lumens in the light box and threw a measured (actual distance, as tested by me and my wife) 1 mile. At that mile it was slightly brighter than 1/4 lux or the light of a full moon. So the mile of distance ate up 2497 lumens. If you can see that far, you’re seeing the result of twice that distance, there and back (for your eye to see it)
Perceived brightness? Who that one up? Are you shining this 2500 lumen light at a white garage door from 20’ away? Or white snow at a quarter mile? Dark pine trees at half a mile? The perception will change everywhere you point it, so how do you adjust the formula? Sounds crazy to me. What’s the relative humidity? Altitude? Are your cells fresh? Are there bugs flying? Dirt road nearby? Anyone on it? Ambient lighting from a house’s guard light, local mall, highway? Yeah, too many variables to even begin to consider a formula for what is perceived. Oops! I just shined my 12,000 lumen triple XHP-50.2 in your face from 3’ away, now tell me what you perceive of that weaker light….
OK, I thought I was missing something. I thought lumens could be measured as an absolute value, same as I do, but differently, for photography.