I guess only one… Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light - #12907 by ToyKeeper
Decrease the indicator light. All fine.
But still too light for me.
To reset settings to factory defaults, in firmware version #display, press&hold for at least 1.2 seconds.
Assuming you are in ramping mode, do 3 quick clicks. This will be battery check and it will blink out the cell voltage.
Now do a fast double click. It should blink out the model version which is one. So it will blink once then long pause and once again.
Now then, from here you press and hold at least 1.2 or 2 seconds. Something like that. It should reset to default settings.
We wanted 2 screws to hold the reflector down, but were not able to work that out. We got one 4MM x 8 mm center screw.
Yes, the production LED's are much brighter than the prototypes were, even though both use 15K resistors. Probably 30K-40K would be equivalent, and actually that's a good thing - the parasitic drain of the switch LED's will be reduced even further.
We wanted 2 screws to hold the reflector down, but were not able to work that out. We got one 4MM x 8 mm center screw.
Yes, the production LED's are much brighter than the prototypes were, even though both use 15K resistors. Probably 30K-40K would be equivalent, and actually that's a good thing - the parasitic drain of the switch LED's will be reduced even further.
Would the ‘pencil trick’ work/help on a defective switch led resistor?
Whenever i finally get my first Q8… IF the switch leds don’t behave, i’ll probably just sever the wire to the leds and be done with this non-issue! :person_facepalming:
“Pencil trick”?
Isn't the code only valid until the 27th, and isn't the production halt likely to very rightfully have people delaying their order until they know it will get fixed? And doesn't that mean the code date should be extended, to say two weeks after we hear good news again?
Wow, that’s an old one. Someone way back in flashlight history discovered that the graphite in a pencil is just conductive enough to sort-of short out a driver that has next-mode memory, disabling that useless “feature”. I can’t remember how it was done exactly, but I’m sure a quick search would turn it up. Thankfully, the need for that was before my time here. 
EDIT: Oh yeah, the question was probably meant to suggest using the pencil trick to lower the resistance on the switch board by basically putting a line of pencil graphite across the resistors, effectively making a “parallel” resistance. If lower resistance (higher current) is what’s needed, I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.
I’m for extending the “time-out” of the code up to two weeks.
The pencil trick might be diagnostic, I don’t know how long it would last though.
The pencil trick is using the conductive properties of graphite to change the resistance of a resistor. By drawing a line on the resistor with a pencil, you allow some current to pass through the pencil line. This is in parallel with the resistor itself, so if the resistor is a large value to begin with, you can adjust the total resistance by adding and erasing the graphite.
Well, only one piece, as far as I know, has been confirmed to have a defective resistor. The pencil trick will ground out the resistor, probably create a lot less resistance than the 15K value, so the LED's would be quite bright and bump up parasitic drain when leaving them on.
It's a way to test for a faulty resistor, but a wire could be used to do the same thing easier, by holding the wire ends to the each end of the resistor with the Q8 in a state of lighting them up.
i just tried 4 Samsung 30Q flattop and they work fine without anything no solder blob no magnet just as they are
It’s not necessarily a defective resistor. My guess is more likely to be the leds.
Bypassing the resistor with a graphite trace might work, but it also might give too much current to the leds. Assuming the leds don’t burn up, you’d have a massive drain.
Yeah, sorry if it was already discussed. I didn't see it mentioned in the OP. Right with only 7 days left just a "time-out" seems not enough. There should be two weeks again from restart, to give people enough time to get the message.
Not recommended though - shortest cell configuration. When this has been done in the past, I believe someone found out not all 4 cells really made contact - won't know til you run it a little while then pull the cells and test their voltage - should all be equal.
I'd say the same for the LG HG2's - not recommended but may work - clearance are just so marginal...
Personnally I wouldn't take the chance, but of course I can easily solder blob those cells
I can confirm the problem, first time i power on the flashlight the led works after 5? Minuts of use the led is not working anymore. I made the factory reset ,for be sure im not missconfigured the q8. And the power led is off.
Hope thorfire and blf fix thix easy way! Im not a modder or something similar. Too hard for me.
Sorry for me english.
That looks awful to me, but wouldn’t it be the case that all the spring pressure when installed would be pressing the flat edge of the button top base against the bare metal of the positive side inside the wrapping, so there should theoretically be very solid contact?
I don’t think you can say it was a defective resistor. It’s value was never verified so it may have been exactly 15k ohm. All we know is he greatly lowered the resistance of it by stacking a second resistor on top. This bumped the parasitic drain to 6,600uA. Much higher than the stock 135uA. So maybe the total resistance is 500 ohm? Just a wild guess.
That high a parasitic drain will drain a set of 3,000 cells in 75 days instead of 2.8 years.