I really can’t wait for the Ti. This light is so simple and clean. This reminds me of the penlights from when I was a kid, but better tint and brighter! I hope the new faster PWM driver will fit the brass light, gotta change that out. I did purchase a spare driver with the intentions of building it into a P60 shell for my 2*AA Solarforce light.
@DBC Damapple I’ll take that name for the damascus light. Thanks.
@TK Sorry for the confusion. Factory used 2 different batteries when they took this photo. The one on left did have more output.
They had all the glasses coated, I can’t get any for you.
@ all, if you need a new reflector, pls do PM me, I might miss the posts in the thread.
Refined my tail setup a bit for XMas.
Took the already bent 0.5 mm sterling silver wire. (Copper should work just as fine ) With a half round diamond needle file I removed a bit at the outside and the inside diamater, making both a bit flat top, and reducing the radial thickness to something between 0.4 and 0.5 mm, just enough for the button to pass, but not too tight. Assembled and tested the light: didn’t work, as guessed, because the wire ist still too thick / high. So I filed it down to a height of approx. 0.3 mm, making it more a spacer than a wire ;-). Filing this fragile open wire ring went fine with a flat diamond needle file, having the wire lying flat on a fingertip of my left hand (What should work too is grinding the ring with a fingertip on a sheet of fine emery paper.) Additionally, for another bit less pre-load on the switch, I filed the convex top of it flat (and also for a more stable, less wobbly assembly (flat button bottom vs. flat switch top)).
Works very good now: very little play, button always quite centered, smooth-running, tailstanding.
This light deserves nothing less.
And everyone can do this with a piece of 0.5 mm copper wire and a sheet of emery paper.
I totally forgot to order a reflector. The old one has its own special charm though. I mean, the new reflector is obviously superior with a smoother beam and tighter focus, but the original reflector has a pleasant retro aesthetic.
Bullocks. It’s physiologically impossible to detect, let alone “feel” any PWM above 2000 Hz as this is higher than the refractionary time of the human retina. Anti-scientific rubbish.
Yes - my first trit installation worked fine, with cheap “5 Second Fix” (combined pen-style liquid plastic pipette & UV light at less than $2) from Ebay
The easiest way for a human to detect fast (ish) PWM during normal flashlight use is called intrasaccadic perception. For example, if the light reflects off a shiny doorknob or faucet or other similar object, moving the eye across the doorknob produces an image which looks like a series of dots if there is PWM. With no PWM, it looks instead more like a streak. Individual sensitivity to this varies though. I tend to see it up to around 8 kHz.
Another way to see PWM with the naked eye is to wave a thin white card rapidly through the beam. It tends to look like a series of stillframes, with the distance between determined by PWM speed. Using this method, I can generally see pulses up to about 20 kHz.
In both cases, the ability to perceive the pulses depends on how quickly the image moves across the retina, not how quickly the retina responds. They can be used to very quickly detect PWM and get a rough estimate of the speed.
But normally I want a more precise measurement so I use a fancy DMM to check the exact speed. Although LEDs normally turn current into light, they can also run in reverse to turn light into current. The upshot of this is that I can hook an LED up to my Fluke, put it in frequency mode, and point a flashlight at it… and it’ll tell me how fast the PWM is.
Interesting. AND you actually convinced me by: “In both cases, the ability to perceive the pulses depends on how quickly the image moves across the retina, not how quickly the retina responds.”. Happy New Year
I encountered a strange thing about the audible PWM of the Pineapple last night.
I just finished sewing a soft dark brown leather holster (open bottom for the light to be usable when in holster) when I noticed a quite loud sound when putting the Pineapple into the holster, and when it’s in there. It’s definitely the PWM, cause the frequencies are the same. Playing around with it I found out that it starts at a distance of about 3 inches away from a surface, increasing constantly to a maximum when touching it. It’s almost inaudible opposed to white, but becoming more intense the darker the surface is.
This also explains the strange fact that sometimes I could hear the PWM when holding the light next to my ear, sometimes not. When panning the light towards the ear canal it’s getting louder, reaching maximum when shining directly into the ear.
I’m sure someone here is able to explain this behaviour - very curious about it…
) With a half round diamond needle file I removed a bit at the outside and the inside diamater, making both a bit flat top, and reducing the radial thickness to something between 0.4 and 0.5 mm, just enough for the button to pass, but not too tight. Assembled and tested the light: didn’t work, as guessed, because the wire ist still too thick / high. So I filed it down to a height of approx. 0.3 mm, making it more a spacer than a wire ;-). Filing this fragile open wire ring went fine with a flat diamond needle file, having the wire lying flat on a fingertip of my left hand (What should work too is grinding the ring with a fingertip on a sheet of fine emery paper.) Additionally, for another bit less pre-load on the switch, I filed the convex top of it flat (and also for a more stable, less wobbly assembly (flat button bottom vs. flat switch top)).
