The xtar 2600's w/ sanyo cells. Best cheap batteries you can get.
Before I found BLF I ordered 2-UF 4000 mAh cells. In myUltrafire KH-T60 the draw is 2.4 amps. The Panasonic cells I got from the good Reverend I get 3.4 at the tail. Brinyte C5 with UF 4000 2.6 with Panasonic CGR 2.8.
+1 and there is still a special on.
I use the Hi-max batteries from eBay in this light with great success. They are reviewed on this site.
Where abouts? Might get some. I am looking at the Xtar 18700s. These seem to be the protected version of the 18650. ie slightly longer. Just in case you did not know, the '18' means the width in mm. The '65' is the length. So a 18700 is 70mm long.
Does anyone know if the 18700s will work in the Skyray?
Definately get some. They do work.
I'll find the link
They are all I use with 2 x 18650 set ups
[quote=edc] https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/72497 [/quote]
Please note promotion is to be run out at the end of this month, so hurry up. 
Mine just short circuited and squished tailcap spring. I believe it is the drivers fault. After close inspection I noticed that the driver board with spring is just a board without elements only some circuits printed. Perhaps the driver and the board are too close and can short circuit. A plastic sheet (like they use to cover the leds) would solve the problem if placed in between.
EDIT:
For those of you disassembling the light: place the reflector back EXACTLY as it was. Finding the right turn of the reflector solved my short circuit problem. The light is shining again 
Yes, I just ordered 2 pairs. Not a bad price at all.
So I'm starting to think that this light just isn't so well made on the inside, no? It seems a number of people are having theirs burn out or arrive duds. How many of us have had our 3800s for a while and are still finding them strong?
What little disassembly I did seems to indicate that the quality is pretty good. Mine arrived as a dud, but these things can happen. The hardest thing so far is getting the chinese seller to actually read my emails. It took me 3 emails to convince them I was using 18650 batteries (which they sold to me). Still no resolution on that front. But everything looks good on the torch - double o-rings, for example. Very nicely made threads, solid feel. The batteries were a nice tight fit (ie did not move around). All in all, I am very happy with the build quality. As soon as I resolve the ‘not working’ bit, a friend is going to buy one as well.
There have been a few duds but I think there are a lot of them are out there. I cant remember a light that got so much attention when it came out. I would like to know how many are out there. For the record my original type is still going strong. only glitch in mine is that sometimes it will snap out of low mode to full power. Not real often though.
Just a FYI, My light is rev0 and after taking it apart and putting it back together, I noticed it was only pulling 2.30 amps.
After opening it again and looking at the driver, I noticed what looked to be a cold solder joint. I decided to take a chance a re-solder it.
After re soldering the joint, it is now pulling 2.98 amps on the exact same batteries.
Not sure if this will help anyone else, I noticed some people were reporting very low amp readings, perhaps look at the driver for cold joints and re-solder if necessary.
I have the drop in version, and it is still going strong. I don't use real long run times, but it has been worth the purchase to me.
Ordered 7/17. Received 7/29. I'm not really sure what my version is. I don't think it's a drop-in because I tried pulling it out and it doesn't budge. It screws and unscrews so I think it might be Revision 2.
Definitely, since it unscrews. So how's the performance? Still 2.5A at the tail? No DOA?
Together with the Fandyfire STL-V6/Sky Ray STL-V2 throwers, plus these 3 XM-Ls, these are all excellent lights which all flashaholics must experience. And do get some IMR 18500 from bestinone.net, E1320 and I have tested them. Very good stuff and utterly capable of 2.5A-3 plus amps that the 3 x T6 requires, orange wrappers. They improve slightly on the length and cut it to 180mm so that its more manageable.... in fact you can put it into your pocket or jacket easily.
You just shouldn't have to be re-soldering stuff and lights shouldn't flip out of modes. That's what bothers me (as a non-mechanically inclined person). And having to struggle through language barriers and having people reply: "Maybe you are happy with only 100 lumens?" It would be too much.
This is the first light that I've bought for a long time. My trustfire flames are charging right now. How are IMR cells different from my trustfire flames?
IMRs (LiMn) are unprotected, and as such using unprotected cells you would have to be wary of deep discharges like under 3V. Do a google. They are safer chemistry which would not vent with flames or explode violently. But they are lower in capacity, though they do give you much more current without heating up. A 2 x 18500 setup will fit in the light without the extension. If you use Li Co batteries and use 18500 1800mAH, most probably you'd stress them too much and the light cuts out. Not very safe also with the lower capacity 18500s. With Li Co you'd need to use 18650s.
18 - diameter. 500 = length of cell. 2 x 18500 = 1000mm total length. 2 x 18650 = 1300mm total length. Your light has a short extension which you can unscrew out. Most people would be happy with 2 x 18650, but some really would prefer a shorter length and give up the run time. Power still would be the same. The choice is there for you to choose as per application.
I just bought one last week, and I was not lucky when I oppened mine, I think it had a cold solder spot inside, when I unscrew the headbulb assembly one wire get unsoldered!
So I found this forum with all the pictures; it was so close to help me out but unfortunately on the pictures (Dasfriek) I could not see clearly where the positive wire goes on the LED driver PCB.
One wire of the headbulb assembly goes to the PCB designation (L-) and the other one I do not know??? Could you send me a picture (closeup) of the area (spot) where I have to solder it back on the right spot???
Thank you so much
rmayrand659@yahoo.ca