Good day Tom E. I need some info. One of my Haikelite MT07 just failed. When switching on the LED don't light on. The switch does show blue color. I did measured around 8.4V. What could be the problem?
Good day Tom E. I need some info. One of my Haikelite MT07 just failed. When switching on the LED don't light on. The switch does show blue color. I did measured around 8.4V. What could be the problem?
Not good - where did you measure that voltage? I'm not sure how comfortable you are with tearing down a light, but if you are, I'd say you can start isolating the problem. Remove the reflector - see if it still fails, then with am ~7.4V source (2 cell holder like this) and using partially drained cells, apply power directly across the LED to see if the LED is ok. What I do is just quickly test it - shouldn't damage the LED.
Looks like some things similar happened to me last week. Then I found the contact between a metal ring on top of battery tube and the PCB board beneath it was bad. Before remove 2 screws and clean them, please mark the position of metal ring, PCB and battery tube so you can reassemble them correctly later.
Hope it helps.
Thanks, i'll try it. I will have the flashlight back by the end of this week.
Thanks Tom, Apparently the flashlight is with my brother right now. I will have the flashlight by the end of this week. He did also measure 7.4 volts on top of battery tube. When switching on only the blue button light came on. Can you please describe to me how to remove the reflector so that I can test the LED? I will really appreciate it Tom.
You can unscrew the stainless steel bezel separately, a non slippery gloves does help in my case as it was rather tight.
Hi Kotobuki, I don't think this is the problem. Remember there is 7,4V on the battery tube when measuring over the rings. When reassemble tube back and switch the flashlight on the switch does come on with blue light but without light . So it could be either a LED or DRIVER problem. Let say the driver did fail. What component will it then be on the circuit board? Tom E your answer will also be really appreciated.
Think I did the same as above - if I can't unscrew a bezel by hand, I then use the somewhat sticky blue gloves I bought at Lowes. Those gloves I've used many times for loosening tight bezels, etc.
For a driver problem, it's beyond me to trouble-shoot those kind of drivers. some here on BLF know a lot more than me on electronics and are comfortable doing that. For me, I'd simply replace the driver with a FET+1 style, running Narsil - actually I just built a driver up for the MT07, using HQ latest v3.4 here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/40540.
How does the new HQ V3.4 driver compare to the original driver with intensity and lumens? From where can I buy this driver?
First I will open it an see if I can find something wrong. It did work perfectly after the last time I used it. The next moment after a long transport in vehicle it never lights up again.
Just for interesting what will happen with reverse polarity?
Well first thing, you need a 2S2P battery setup, not the 4S. The HQ driver is ordered from OSHPark, buy the parts, reflow it yourself... Other option is buying one made for this from Lexel, fully assembled and tested.
It's FET based, so the amps are high, should be higher than the stock driver, depenging on other mods.
I just heard about the MT07S that has a 70.2 in it. It’s coming out soon and is a preorder right now. Just thought you guys might want to know.
I cancelled my pre-order of the MT07S - smaller diameter, less throw, rated at 500 meters, which is 62.5 kcd, nothing great. I already have a XHP70.2 in the MT07, and ordered a SMO reflector for the MT07 from Haikelite. I think their thinking was make the reflector smaller in diameter, maybe the same or greater length and that increases throw - wrong. It's been proven many times, and the physics says length makes no difference, it just narrows the spill area. I just don't see the advantage any longer - might as well get a Convoy L6 with a SMO reflector. The unique thing of the MT07 was it's massively wide reflector. If they shortened the head and kept the reflector proportions the same, it would have been worth it maybe.
I agree though the XHP70.2 and SMO reflector is the way to go, they just should have done it with the MT07 host.
Tom E, tell me how the light changed after installing 70.2?
Thanks Tom E for all the info. I did also order my third Haikelite MT07 cool white this morning from Gearbest.
Oh boy. I have the light resistor modded and was hoping to see more lumens output, but don't think it made much difference - not sure of exact reasons. Think it does have the yellow ring around the halo, but I got a P2 3B in there now (was CW I think). I'll be swapping the driver though soon to FET+1, so should see 8K to 9K, as I got from the Convoy L6.
Will scrape off the yellow coating on the LED PCB on the corners - did this on my MT03 and I see no yellow halo, using the same XHP70.2 LED's at 3B.
Thanks!
Tom E,thank you . Is there a photo of the throw?
No, I don't have one, not aware of any - sorry.
I just confirmed with Haikelite that the SMO reflector for the MT07 is truly SMO, made for the MT07. They had 30 made at the time. They said tomorrow they will ship it out to me.
This is pretty cool! I already have the XHP70.2, so can't wait to see how it throws.
Wow, I’m really scratching my head on that one. How does the yellow in the corners have such a huge effect on the Corona color? And if scraping the yellow off the corners gets rid of it or reduces it, why haven’t Cree figured that out and done it from the factory? That’s one of the major annoyances of the new 50.2 and 70.2.
I wanna try it, did you just take a razor blade and carefully slice then scrape the corners?