[Review] Wurkkos HD10 - A great formfactor Anduril 2 90° headlamp


Welcome to my short Review of the Wurkkos HD10 - a 90° 14500 headlamp with Anduril 2.


First of all - this review is based on a pre-production unit. I can not guarantee that the final product will look, feel or perform the same way. This review unit was sent to me free of charge by Wurkkos (thank you very much, @Wurkkos_Terry!). I was not paid for writing this review outside of free access to a sample light.

This is actually a very interesting light for me. I had been waiting for this light for a long time ever since I first saw it teased (almost a year ago!), because I had been looking for a successor for my Sofirn HS10 with better battery life and UI. Therefore I was very stoked when Terry drew me as one of the testers for this light as it was pretty perfect for my needs - or so I thought. But more about that later. Let’s start with some basic specs.


Manufacturer: Wurkkos
Model: HD10
Battery: 14500 (900 mAh included). No dual-fuel, LiIon only
Length: 83 mm
Diameter (body): 17-22 mm
Diameter (head): 23 mm
Weight: 65 g (incl. battery), 45 g (excl. battery)
LED: 3x CSP2323 4000K (95CRI), RGB AUX (6 LEDs for each color)
Optic: Triple TIR, unknown specs
Button: E-switch
UI Anduril 2, version check output: 2022-07-25-0715
Other: IP68, USB charging, magnet in tailcap, charging indicator in power button

Packaging and contents

The packaging is simple and reduced to the necessary information.

Front side shows a rendering of the light, next to the brand and model name, the IP68 rating as the fact that it has USB-C charging. The rear gives some legal information (website, address, address of the EU distribution partner, various certification logos), as well as the brightness (up to 1200lm) in different modes. I assume these are the default brightness steps in simple UI, stepped mode - the light ships, however, in ramping mode as we will see later. The beam distance is specified with up to 129 m.

Curious is the combination of 1 A, 5 V (USB charging specs, presumably) and 12 W (which are probably the highest power in non-turbo? Not sure. Weird).

One of the sides of the slide-out-part of the packaging lists the LED type, CCT and flashlight color (I hope we will see colorful HD10 later on, just like the TS10!).

The inside has a piece of cardboard that reminds us to remove the insulation piece and then carefully re-tighten the battery tube. Underneath it we have the light, a USB-A to USB-C cable, the clip and a lanyard. The battery is shipped inside the light, most likely for legal reasons (standalone batteries not part of a device are not allowed on regular airfreight).

The foam packaging protects the light well. The box is neither oversized, nor too small to promise safe delivery. I would have preferred to see a packaging that involves less plastic and foam, and more recycled/recyclable materials instead (corn starch foam and bags, more use of cardboard/paper), but hey. It is very well packaged. That’s what counts.

Looks and feel


The light has a nice slim design, and reminds me a lot of the Wurkkos TS10 in its design with the slim waist battery tube. The anodisation is slightly matte and very uniform - great quality that looks and feels good. The light never feels “slippery” despite not having any knurling or grooves on most of the body, only some approx. 2 mm deep heatsinking grooves on the head.

The clip sits in a dedicated groove on the battery tube. Sadly the tube is not reversible due to only one side having a larger drilled diameter in the first few millimeter for additional clearance with the driver PCB, making the clip non-reversible. I would have preferred a reversible tube to allow for the clip to be mounted in either direction. That would have made the light more universally useful. I have not used/tested the clip much, as the light would always protrude out of a pocket if clipped in place. The only real usecase for it I found is to clip it to a shirt or pant front pocket, and have it light your path. Not sure how useful that is due to bobbing.

The triple TIR is framed by a slim silver bezel that appears to be pressed in - I tried and could not get it loose by pressing the light against a rubber mat and rotating. If it is screwed, it must be secured with Locktite or similar. It is covered by a glass lens. Due to it being non-removable, I have no way of checking AR-coating or if O-rings are placed around it. The IP rating of the light, however, suggests it is properly waterproofed.

The USB port flap is on the rear side of the head and well designed. It is almost impossible to open it accidentally, but easy to open on purpose and it feels snug and water-tight when closed. The slot around the USB-C port is large enough that even larger USB cables fit without issues. Out of my cables, only Anker Powerline+ with connectors close to the limit allowed by the USB IF need a bit of force to push inside the groove and then sit wedged in place.

The E-switch sits on the top end of the light. It measures 12 mm in diameter and is made out of machined and anodized aluminum with a small silicone insert in the middle for the charge status LED. Button presses give a clear haptic and acoustic clicky feedback. The button is nice to use.

Size comparison

In order to maybe help judging the size of the light, I took some pictures next to the included 14500 cell, a 21700 cell, as well as a Sofirn HS10 (16340 90° headlamp). While the body of the HD10 is noticeably slimmer, the heads are about the same size. The metal button is a lot nicer to use in my opinion, but this may be preference.

The headband

The headband is a pretty classic design, similar to the ones included by other brands. It is easy to adjust in its length, and should fit about every head size out there just fine. The fabric feels like good quality. What I do not like about it is the fact that the rubber part is not covered by the band (like most other brands do), and instead the rubber touches your skin all the time - this is okay for short wearing, but can get annoying quickly.

In addition, the light uses the “2 silicone loops” design, where it can be quite finnicky to get the light into the loops. I do not think it is possible to get the light into the headband without removing the clip, unless you stretch the loops further and keep the clip forward-facing.

I prefer the approach of Olight for the Perun Mini 2 headband, where you have a rubber flap that gets closed over the light. Luckily the HD10 fits the Perun Mini 2 headband just fine (although you have to either remove the clip, or turn it forward facing).


Honestly, not much to say here. This light uses a standard Anduril 2.0 (version check: 2022-07-25-0715) and I see no point in repeating how to use Anduril, when others did a great job already at creating visual diagrams and Toykeeper made a nice official guide. Most of you will be acquainted with Anduril anyway and know what to expect.

Firmware/hardware bugs

This is a point I did not expect to bring up for an Anduril light. In my testing, more than once the light ended up in a weird state where the aux lights were on, but no button presses allowed me to turn on the main emitters, and no amount of presses got me into any kind of setup or changed anything. With lots of button presses I got an occasional short light-up out of the main emitters, or shortly turned off the AUX LEDs. This mainly seems to happen when the power is cut for a short moment while the light is on, but sometimes also happened randomly when removing/replacing the battery. Sometimes it recovered after a while, sometimes I had to factory reset the light and set it up again to get it back to working.

I do not know what exactly is going on, but this seems to affect multiple/all testers. Apparently this issue is not limited to this light, one user reported Lumintop FWAA being affected by very similar behavior in the past: 【Wurkkos HD10 update】Design together Wurkkos AA/14500 Light/headlamp-trail production test~ - #754 by andrx
My guess is, it is some combination of certain hardware design, that can lead to undefined behavior in Anduril. My feeling is, it has something to do with battery undervoltage protection, since it always happens when removing and adding battery/power supply.

At least one light also broke entirely and refuses to turn on even after an attempted reset: 【Wurkkos HD10 update】Design together Wurkkos AA/14500 Light/headlamp-trail production test~ - #758 by wolfgirl42

@Wurkkos_Terry this calls for some investigating the issues, and maybe make a new hardware revision before the final launch. If so many of only 10 review units already display erratic behavior, the amount of trouble a larger production batch would cause is probably very high.


As I already mentioned, the light has 6 RGB AUX LEDs. They are equidistantly spaced around the outline of the TIR. Due to suboptimal choice of current limiting resistors they can be quite different in brightness (especially in the lower brightness mode), and mixed colors rarely are the color they should be - red is very dim, what leads to “orange/yellow” being more of a slightly lighter green, and “white” being more like a second teal. In the brighter mode, green and blue can be used as a moonlight replacement for night vision, while red is too dim, and not really suitable.

My current colors are battery voltage dependant (low mode) when unlocked, and red (low mode) in lockout. The low mode red is barely visible during day, but great to find the light next to your bed in the dark, while being dim enough not to be a nuisance while sleeping. In the low mode gif I forgot adding purple - sorry for that. Since both were taken with the same exposure settings, they should convey the brightness difference a little. It looks similar to how it looked to the bare eye.
low mode high mode


Beamshots are something I am simply terrible at. Sorry. Hope they will still be of some help.

The magnetic tailcap kinda predestines this to be used as a work-light. The magnet could be a tad stronger, but it gets the job done, and sticks to any ferrous surface quite well. Useful!

For these pictures I put the light in stepped mode, and only posted the ones where you actually can see something. The last is turbo.

Sofirn HS10 turbo as a comparison:

The beam profile is nice and balanced, a good choice for a medium-powered headlamp. If it were more narrow it would be annoying indoors or as a work-light, much more floody and it would be too dim for outdoor use. Wurkkos nailed the sweet spot.

Technical analysis

I was curious how the driver would perform (or work) from a technical point of view, so I hooked it up to a lab PSU and measured current in all modes. I do not have the equipment to properly measure lumen, or do runtime graphs and measure thermal step-down, so you will have to wait for other reviewers. All measurements in this chapter are performed with a Riden RD6006P, limited at 5A to protect the LEDs (since the internal resistance of a constant-voltage PSU is much lower than that of a 14500 cell).

AUX current consumption

Current consumption for the AUX LEDs mapped from 2.8 to 4.2 V battery voltage in 0.2 V steps. Note the difference in the measurement unit between the two graphs. All uA range measurements were taken with a Brymen BM235 in uA range - it has a shunt resistance of ~100 Ohm in that range, which may slightly skew the results. All mA range measurements were taken with a Brymen BM235 in mA range. It has ~1 Ohm shunt in that range, which may again slightly skew the results. Both times the effect should be minimal, and the mA range showed no significant deviation from the measurements of the lab PSU itself (which lacks accuracy for smaller differences, however).

At 2.8 V the AUX operation was already unreliable, and the light often shut them off already. At 2.6 V it was always off. So the LVP threshold seems to default to around 2.8 V which is a reasonable value.

For those interested, I will list the min and max values here.

Color Low setting at 4.2 V Low setting at 3.0 V High setting at 4.2 V High setting at 3.0 V
Off 5.7 uA 3.8 uA
Red 140 uA 90 uA 5.9 mA 2.73 mA
Red + Green 320 uA 115 uA 9.8 mA 3.95 mA
Green 190 uA 31 uA 4.4 mA 1.46 mA
Green + Blue 304 uA 46 uA 7.78 mA 2.13 mA
Blue 128 uA 20 uA 3.79 mA 0.83 mA
Blue + Red 255 uA 105 uA 9.21 mA 3.34 mA
Red + Blue + Green 430 uA 128 uA 12.83 mA 4.49 mA

The idle draw is low enough that battery self discharge will empty it faster than the 5 uA current. Even the 320 uA (low “orange” aux) would result in over 100 days battery life. The high aux settings however chug a lot of battery, I would recommend not to use those as “always on” settings. But that’s not what they were made for in the first place, so it’s fine.

Main emitter measurements

This was a pretty interesting thing, since Wurkkos had not stated the type of the driver - the measurements made it clear that, despite my hopes for a buck or boost, we got a FET+1. The lower modes are regulated perfectly down to 3.0 V. At 2.8 V a clear step-down happens, where the light lowers the output brightness due to hitting LVP. At 2.6 it is already turned off.

At Step 6 and higher the light switches from linear regulator + PWM to PWM of the battery directly, since we get a strongly battery voltage dependant brightness again. This is typical FET+1 behavior. Not great, these are the simplest and cheapest drivers out there, and I had hoped for more. In a 21700 light with 5000 mAh battery efficiency does not matter that much for me, but in a small light, efficiency is very important.

Mode 4.2 V 4.0 V 3.8 V 3.6 V 3.4 V 3.2 V 3.0 V 2.8 V
firefly 1.55 mA 1.49 mA 1.42 mA 1.34 mA 1.27 mA 1.19 mA 1.11 mA 1.04 mA
Step 1 4.4 mA 4.2 mA 3.9 mA 3.8 mA 3.5 mA 3.3 mA 3.1 mA 2.6 mA
Step 2 13.0 mA 12.6 mA 12.4 mA 12.2 mA 12.0 mA 11.7 mA 11.1 mA 5.5 mA
Step 3 40.8 mA 40.5 mA 40.2 mA 40.0 mA 39.6 mA 39.3 mA 38.3 mA 12.7 mA
Step 4 112 mA 112 mA 111 mA 111 mA 111 mA 110 mA 108 mA 12.7 mA
Step 5 275 mA 275 mA 275 mA 275 mA 275 mA 275 mA 275 mA 12.7 mA
Step 6 887 mA 819 mA 751 mA 681 mA 612 mA 543 mA 475 mA 12.7 mA
Step 7 1870 mA 1650 mA 1431 mA 1218 mA 1015 mA 821 mA 636 mA 12.7 mA
Turbo 5000 mA 5000 mA 5000 mA 5000 mA 5000 mA 3770 mA 2260 mA 12.7 mA

Judging from this, I expected a clearly measurable PWM flicker - measurements with a Opple LM4 confirmed this. All measurements apart from flicker were taken with Steves new Windows application that is yielding decent results for almost all LEDs, while the Flicker readings were taken with the “Opple Smart Lighting” Android app. All in approx. 40 cm distance from the light. The CRI and R9 is excellent, I did not expect Wurkkos to solder such high quality LEDs in this light - especially considering there is zero marketing for “high CRI” or anything involved. This makes the non-removable bezel a bit more bearable :wink:

LED current at 4.2V Lux CCT DUV RA R9 Flicker Index Flicker depth Flicker frequency
4.4 mA 11 4176 K 0.0038 96.4 92 0.1602 67.54 % 6262 Hz
13 mA 63 3992 K 0.0018 97.5 95.9 0.5704 95.81 % 7838 Hz
40.8 mA 340 4035 K 0.001 97.3 95.4 0.7457 99.5 % 6420 Hz
111 mA 1054 4030 K 0.0003 97.2 93.8 0.4953 97.76 % 18505 Hz
273 mA 2642 4029 K 0.0002 97.2 94 0.1977 82.07 % 18505 Hz
887 mA 7072 4121 K 0.0012 95.8 97.6 0.1669 39.39 % 18505 Hz
1870 mA 14953 4119 K 0.0003 95.1 94.6 0.1317 40.25 % 18505 Hz
5000 mA 36861 4147 K -0.0019 96 93.2 0.0016 0.37 % NA

This is a spectrum, recorded at 1870 mA current. The others looked similar, with some slight changes. Keep in mind, the Opple LM4 is not a spectrometer, but a multi-band-sensor - this spectrum is reconstructed using a mathematical model and not directly measured. Usually the reconstructed spectra of the Windows client match actual spectra well (as tested by @koef3).

The full reports are hidden away behind spoiler tags to avoid making you scroll for 5 minutes, and since most won’t care - I only included them for completion.

Opple Flicker screenshots

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5 (last step done by the AMC7135)

Step 6

Step 7


Opple Intensity/DUV/CRI/R9 measurements

Baseline (Light off)

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Step 8

In my testing, on the highest non-turbo level of the stepped UI with default settings, it could last for over 2 minutes before starting to ramp down and being (very) hot to the touch (indoors, no airflow). The next lower level got hot, but ran for over 10 minutes without any (visually) noticeable step-down. This obviously depends a lot on the battery, as the higher modes are battery voltage (and internal restistance) dependant. I have not actively used the light for extended periods of time in one go yet to say how it behaves during longer nighttime walks or car repair sessions.

Integrated battery charging

In order to test the integrated charging, I let the light run down until it hit LVP and measured battery voltage (2.85 V). I then connected it to a USB-C charger (USB-C to USB-C works!) and logged the charging with a Riden TC66C. Sadly the app disconnected halfway through and I lost the charging graph. It began around 0.7 A, peaked at around 1.1 A and then gradually lowered once the CV phase of charging began, until the charge terminated at 4.23 V. I would have preferred a value slightly below 4.2 V, but this is fine. No complaints here.


There is much to love about this light. The formfactor is great, both as a slim and lightweight pocket-lamp, as well as as a lightweight headlamp. Apart from the soft pressure of the headband it is almost not noticeable. For a work-light, the magnet could be a tad stronger so it holds better on curved surfaces. On flat steel it already sticks perfectly as is. The build quality is great, and the light looks and feels very nice.

The emitters are gorgeous. A bit more choice for different CCTs might be useful, but 4000K is a very good allrounder that is well suited for almost any task. The AUX LEDs could be a bit better set up, so that the mixed colors look closer to how they should look - green + red and pure green are almost indistinguishable, and red + blue + green is deep teal instead of white. The brightness levels in both high and low mode are reasonable, and having 6 nicely spaced LEDs behind the TIR leads to a uniform and good looking AUX light.

However, it is not all perfect, and there is multiple points of criticism - I hope some can still be addressed before the production batch:

  • Non-removable bezel. Wurkkos, please, let us swap LEDs if we want. Or just replace the front glass, if we manage to break it somehow.
  • Non-removable driver. I originally wanted to create a drop-in-replacement driver for this light, consisting of a new MCPCB (3 LEDs in series) and a dual-fuel boost driver similar to the D3AA, but if I can not remove either… Well.
  • FET+1 driver. I really hoped for a DC-DC driver for higher efficiency - 900 mAh ain’t a lot, and the heatsinking capacity of such a small light is low. Every % increase of driver efficiency is very welcome and directly improves user experience.
  • No flashing pads. This is by far my largest issue with this light. It runs an excellent and frequently updated open source software, but we can physically not access any flashing pads to update it to the latest versions (especially since it launched with a 2 years old FW), or personalize it. This is not good. Wurkkos, please fix this.
  • Battery tube is not reversible, so that the clip can only used one way. All this would take is machining a similar 3 mm deep step into the other end of the tube, so we can safely reverse it. Threads are already identical on both ends.
  • Firmware bugs

All this being said, I have extensively used this light for about a week now, and it has fully replaced my previous Sofirn HS10. It is a fun light, and I enjoy using it. Honestly, most users will be perfectly fine with what it offers already. But with a few very small changes, it could be better. We are an enthusiast forum, and a light that ships with Anduril gets measured by enthusiast standards by me. I hope Wurkkos still has the time to pick up some of our feedback :slight_smile:

The only thing that is an absolute dealbreaker unless addressed is the amount of bugs people encountered in this short time. I do not know what is happening here, but please - address it. This will make or break the public opinion of this light. And it really deserves its time to shine. It is great - when it works.

Edit history

  • 2024-05-20, 16:05 CEST: Added section about packaging, added weight
  • 2024-05-20, 16:15 CEST: Added some missing image descriptions
  • 2024-05-20, 16:30 CEST: Fixed Introduction heading, added some more information about runtime/step-downs
  • 2024-05-20, 17:05 CEST: Fixed Opple screenshots showing in wrong sizes
  • 2024-05-22, 19:00 CEST: Add charging chapter


  • Add battery charging time and charge current graph once I managed to run it down to zero for the first time
29 Thanks

Modding, reverse engineering and bugfixing

After plenty people asked, I decided I would risk my light to try and disassemble and bugfix it. So, let’s deep dive into the guts of a HD10!


The light is surprisingly easy to take apart - When you unscrew it, you see a second vertical daughterboard protruding through the driver board. This is the MCPCB. It is held in place by 6 solder joints to the LEDs.

The MCPCB can sadly not be removed without removing the bezel, which is pressed into the body. So the LEDs and TIR can not be accessed without accepting damaged hardware. Unlike the driver - desoldering those 6 joints with the help of solder wick is easy, and then the driver can be slid out of the light.

This is the result after removing the driver PCB. Most of the logic sits on the vertical daughterboard, while the actual power semiconductors are located on the PCB that directly interfaces with battery and LEDs - this is good design, and saves a lot of transition resistance. Overall, the driver is mechanically nicely built. I like it.

Reverse Engineering

Now lets put the head and MCPCB aside and look at the driver itself in more detail.

Now, what do we see here? An attiny1616? Yup! Flashing pads? Yup! In the worst possible spot, inaccessible inside the light -.-
On the battery side of the driver PCB there is a 6-pin component marked “P122”, presumably a p-ch MOSFET for reverse polarity protection. On the other side of the PCB there is another 6-pin marked “N201” which is a n-ch MOSFET for the direct drive modes. Next to it we find a AMC7135 for the regulated modes. I traced the most important connections and drew up a simplified schematic. Keep in mind this is no complete schematic, and heavily simplified, to only show the basic connections. The fact that all 3 AUX LEDs have the same 300R resistor might explain the weird colors… Green should have a slightly higher value, red a significantly lower value for similar perceived brightness…

The pinout is exactly the same as used by many Wurkkos lights, among them the TS10 RGBAUX.

Another curiosity of this design: It uses TP4057 battery charging ICs, which are 500 mA fixed single cell chargers. For some reason, instead of using a single 1 A chip, they paralleled 2 500 mA chips. I have never seen this before, but apparently it works, so… Well. Curious, but not an issue :smiley:

Fix #1: Hardware

At this point I was positive I could simply flash the TS10 RGB firmware directly from Toykeeper, but I wanted to keep the option of reflashing the light later on, so a redirection of the flashing pad was necessary. For this I used a thin piece of enameled wire I had at hand, and covered the solder joint in Kapton tape (as the exposed flashing pads are rubbing against the alu flashlight head… This has the potential to short out the light. No more, thanks to the Kapton! This wire was barely thin enough to fit through the cutout for the MCPCB. Not ideal, as it might eventually wear down from vibrations and short against the MCPCB, but works for a proof of concept. On the other side I stuck a piece of Kapton onto the PB, then a piece of copper tape onto the Kapton, and soldered the wire to it. This gives me a very rudimentary “flashing pad”. Might make a proper thin PCB exposing +, - and R some day, but for now… It works. Ain’t pretty though, I’ll admit that. It’s 2 AM now and I just wanted this thing working.

Fix #2: Firmware

In the review I spoke of erratic behavior, which I eventually pinpointed to a very weird issue: It appears that this light was configured as a dual channel light, with the second channel not having any LEDs connected, but still being present in firmware. This allows to get “stuck” in the second channel mode where the behavior of the light appears erratic and wrong - while in reality it is simply trying to turn on LEDs that do not exist, resulting in a confusing behavior (instead of toggling between on and off, aux leds on you toggle between light would be on, but no emitters are on, so effectively it is off and off, aux leds on. My best guess is, Wurkkos tried to recycle an older firmware of a dual channel light, added RGB aux to it, and flashed that.

Since the pinout (and presumably power/setup of modes) is identical to the TS10 RGB, I ended up simply flashing this firmware, directly from Toykeepers Github repository, in the latest version. And see there - no more bugs. My light behaves exactly as expected now. I will keep my eyes open if I can spot any more issues, but for now it seems to work perfectly.

I really wonder why Wurkkos went through the trouble of developing another firmware, instead of reusing the perfectly fine TS10 firmware? I do not know. @Wurkkos_Terry please do not ship the light with the firmware of the testing units. Use the TS10 AUXRGB Anduril 2 (or a firmware based on that but with changed brightness levels, if you prefer) instead. I think pretty much all issues people had with HD10 test samples (apart from the one by @wolfgirl42 where the electronics actually fried) were caused by this strange firmware, and the hardware is actually fine. I can ofc not guarantee that and will need further testing, but the main issues I ran into and could reproduce are now gone. The light is so much more fun to use now that everything works :slight_smile:

14 Thanks

Thanks for the review.
Cool table of contents on the right! :+1:
(I don’t remember seeing a table of contents like that before on BLF.) :slightly_smiling_face:

1 Thank

Thx! Was my first proper review, hope it’s decent!

The ToC is a really awesome feature of this message board that I discovered at random while trying to figure out how to do tables :smiley:

4 Thanks

Thank you for all the work you put into this review!

1 Thank

Great review, thanks! :+1:

A few comments:

  1. the bugs/glitches you mentioned (which could be hardware, firmware, or a combination) are the most worrying aspect IMO. If I were in Wurkkos shoes, I would drop everything right now and get this solved (@Wurkkos_Terry, hope you’re reading this).

  2. to compound #1 above, the lack of flashing pads makes it basically unfeasible for us first-testers to fix any firmware bugs (or hardware bugs that can be worked around in the firmware), as we can’t upload new firmware in the field. Ditto future users… Again, this is something that needs to get done before the main product launch.

  3. the tube being non-reversible is disappointing but not critical: Wurkkos can fix it anytime by offering a double-direction clip. I’m specially interested in knowing whether the one Wurkkos offered for the TS10 would work with the HD10.

The rest looks good, even very good or excellent (eg, the USB port and the main LEDs).

Let’s hope Wurkkos fixes #1 and #2 ASAP… I will be sure to buy a second (apart from the gifted first-batch unit that should reach me anytime soon) just for the flashing pads.

7 Thanks

I put a little bit of pressure with a pointy knife on the lens in a non-critical area and it definitely leaves a little dent. You could use a pin also. No glass on mine.
I went to mine today and the red auxiliaries on. I don’t believe I had left it in locked. Pressed the button and nothing. 1c , 2c, 3c. 4c, nothing. Removed the tail cap, put it back and all works again. ??? Voltage is at 4.0.
Spoke too soon, now when I put it in lockout the auxiliaries are rotating through all the options again. I’m pretty sure I had turned off the auxiliaries in lockout 2 days ago. I’m tempted to turn off the auxiliaries for anything. For now I’m going to leave them on low red when off and no auxiliaries when locked. And I’ll see what happens.

2 Thanks

Great review, thanks!
I think that the most worrisome problem is the loss of the ability to use the light at all without power resetting it. Even with that, according to reports, in some cases it is just bricked.

I have not yet seen that with mine, and I do use mechanical lockout, so it basically power cycles it each time I use it.

The bezel, and clip things are somethings that I can live with, but not like. Though I can see them being critical to some.

The lack of access to flashing pads is not acceptable to me. Especially considering that they ship with an older version of Andruil that lacks some of the functionality that I want/need.

5 Thanks

I agree with you. The bugs are definitely issue #1 and need to be addressed for the production version.

The lack of flashing pads is very annoying too.

The other issues I named are mostly minor, and not bothering me too much. The first two however need addressing.

I gotta double-check, it seemed like a glass lens to me, but maybe I was mistaking… Damn. Thanks for the heads-up.

I just found one more weirdness. In advanced UI, with the light turned on, 3 clicks put it to some weird state where it behaves normally, but the main LEDs never turn on. So I can toggle between “all off” and “AUX on”, basically.

According to the docs, 3C from on does this:

3C: Switch to the other ramp style. (smooth / stepped) (or activate the next channel mode, when more than one is enabled) (then use 6C instead, for smooth / stepped toggle)

Could it be Wurkkos enabled more than one channel in the Firmware, but the light only has one, so this brings it to a weird state where the second channel would be on, but since it does not exist all is off?

This is very similar to one of my “bugs” I found where I could not get the light back working. Maybe it even was this and I just did not figure out how to get back, back then (which is, turn the non-existing channel “on” (so, aux is off), and then 3 clicks again to get back to channel 1.

The “power taken away in the wrong moment” bug was different, I think. I remember having 2 slightly different error patterns in my tests. I will try to reproduce that one as well, but my suspicion still stands that it is some hardware/software combined issue with LVP.

1 Thank

in my opinion the firmware they put is buggy; we need a hero who sacrifices his torch to find out what’s inside

I may do that after I recorded the battery charging curve - I don’t want to risk breaking it before I measured that :smiley:

Actually, I would prefer not breaking it after that as well, so I hope I can disassemble it without damages. But we’ll see. Worst case I will have to purchase a new production model.

I tried to open the bezel with guitar picks, but I couldn’t…I think I need something harder which will certainly ruin the anodized color

My thought was to desolder the PCB visible of the driver - then see what I can reach from that point on. Not sure where the main driver sits. It seems to have 3 PCBs. The one that is visible which contacts the battery, the MCPCB, and a third which connects to the USB port. My hope is that the charging circuit sits on the third, but the whole driver on the first which should be removable with hot-air. I hope.

I think it’s screwed in somewhere

Desolder switch and push down, it must come out if not glued…

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Thank you for the detailed review. Relieves my fears of sub-par emitters. RA and R9 numbers look fantastic. I can live with the DUV if production samples hold to your observations. I agree a more efficient driver would be preferable in a lower mAh cell platform, but I’ve had no complaints with the performance of my TS10’s. I don’t use these for prolonged periods, mostly at moonlight low to mid level outputs and I’m not overly sensitive to PWM. 15 minutes of hands-free good quality light over a grill full of steaks or burgers is all I longed for with this model. Bring it.

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Yeah my main issues right now is the bunch of weird bugs and both firmware and hardware issues that absolutely need addressing, and the lack of flashing pads. Everything else is a minor nuisance, but no big deal unless they price this in the premium segment (which I am pretty sure they won’t).

I disassembled my light, modded it to have an accessible flashing pad, and then flashed it to a new firmware version - this fixed all my issues so far. I will keep my eyes open. Check the second post further up in this topic for more information. Direct link for the people who do not wanna scroll here: [Review] Wurkkos HD10 - A great formfactor Anduril 2 90° headlamp - #2 by ebastler

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Wow, just wow!!! Excellent job disassembling and documenting the whole process with pictures and text!!! an even a diagram of the circuit!!! :+1::+1::+1:

You’re quickly becoming my preferred reviewer! :tada:

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