I’ve had a lot of requests to review this light, and I’m glad I was able to - it’s a remarkable light, especially for the price. It has a custom user interface (no more Anduril), but with a lot of thoughtful features (and a few quirks). To give you one quick teaser for performance:
You’ll see the same pattern on Med in the full review - basically, I’m seeing best-in-class efficiency for my sample, which is particularly impressive for a neutral white emitter.
Please check out the full review for more details, happy to answer any questions here or on my site.
I have a few of these TS22 lights. What I particularly like about the TS22 is its fairly wide flood beam.
Now a request. Would it be possible to review the Wurkkos WK15 light, please?
This (WK15) light has been around for well over six months now and appears to be fairly popular, based on various online sources. However, there has yet to be a thorough review of this light that includes runtime graphs.
Thanks for the comments, and the suggestion. I will add to the list of ones I’m considering - I do like the idea of prioritizing what the community is most interested in. I may conduct a poll in the near future - in the meantime, please keep the suggestions coming.
I just got the Wurkkos TS25 (Anduril 2, quad 519a, 1x21700). It’s a good looking light with a lot of features. I haven’t tried it out much yet.
Another reviewer’s runtime graph seems to show it stabalizing at <300 lumen. In that case it has comparable sustained output of four single aa lights taped together. That seems crazy to me and I’m wondering what you would think.
It looks like a very nice light. Very similar yet different than my newly acquired Wurkkos FC13.
The TS22 has a bit more lumens and a little less throw.
One reviewer for the FC13 had turn on lumens at 4088…
I’m very very impressed with Wurkkos. There was serious issues with the firmware on my FC13.
I sent him a video and they’re sending me a new light. I was pleasantly surprised.
Two previous experiences with China dealers they wanted me to pay for shipping which was more than the light was worth. I took the loss.
Their lights are powerful, built well and reasonably priced.
When I first saw you came back a few months ago I was pleasantly surprised. Always liked your reviews and the videos. You Put a lot of work and time into it, a lot of information which helps many of us determine if we were going to get a light or not.
Oh, that doesn’t sound right. I haven’t seen that model, but assuming it is a compact build, I’m wondering if it isn’t the thermal sensor calibration? Anduril lights are configurable, and can sometimes be set rather conservatively for heat (i.e., if the manufacturer doesn’t pre-configure it well to the build, and just goes with the default).
Mind you, they are also typically safer to handle and run as a result - a lot of small-mass budget lights run (too?) hot by default, and are not configurable. I would test your sample and see how it performs - if you find output low, and it doesn’t seem too hot, you could try to adjust the temp calibration.
Ah, good to know. Makes sense that it would fit and mate with the light, given the common production facilities. And a nice way to add a tactical forward clicky to the light.
Ah, I was going to ask about that - presumably, the tail click just restores the current, and you would need to have the electronic switch in the on-state if you want to activate the light by the tailcap clicky.
Of course, that would also mean you could still use the switch indicator LED as a “green moonlight” if you kept the electronic switch in the off-state, correct?
I had noticed the light “remembered” whether or not the electronic switch was in the on- or off-state when connecting the tailcap, so this really would be the best of both worlds.
Why no mention of the high parasitic drain in the summary CONS?
People may just skip some parts of the review, and buy it without being aware of the problem.
I message TERRY 7 month ago about it, and it seems nothing was fixed…
That’s a good point, I will add that to the con side of the table, as it is a significant point for this light.
I suppose the reason I didn’t think of it originally is how I’ve opted to use the light, namely as a twisty with the switch indicator serving as a moonlight.
And I’m glad to see you found pretty much the exact same pattern. I can only guess right now the issue is the powerbank feature, as I haven’t come across that yet on other lights.
If you have the TS22 by your side, please use the auto lock mode, and leave if for over 3 min (after this 3 min, the parasitic drain should be at 130-110µA, and no more jumping), and see if the powerbank function works. (I don’t have the light on me, gifted it to my dad).
If it works, the it’s not the powerbank function fault.
Right, I hadn’t measured the standby drain past 3 mins to see if it dropped down. I have just measured it, and can confirm it drops down and stay at ~100-110 uA on my sample, with no more jumps up to ~1.82 mA.
I have tried the powerbank feature after auto-lockout engages, and it works no problem. So you are right, the jump-up in current to ~1.8mA every few seconds (before the lock-out engages) can’t be due to powerbank feature.
On the other hand, once the auto lockout does engage, that means the standby drain for this light (without the indicator feature on) is actually not that unreasonable for the class - a little under 5 and half years for 5000mAh cell to drain at the post-lockout ~105 uA average.
Yes, but the problem is, you have to use the auto lock mode.
If you use 2 other modes that don’t have auto lock, and you even manually lock the light (that shuts off the green button led), the parasitic drain ramein 2000-1960µA.
It’s clearly a bug, the drive can draw 130-110µA in standby/sleep, and work perfectly fine, but is not doing it.
Yes, thanks for having measured that. It certainly seem to be a bug that the user-engaged lockout mode maintains the much higher standby drain with those other two indicator states (compared to the auto lockout mode with no indicator). And I don’t know why the flashing-on indicator state similarly has the higher base drain in the first place. It is a bit puzzling for those two mode/states.
Personally, I can’t stand electronic lockout modes, and rely exclusively on tailcap lockouts. Thank goodness for anodized screw threads!
That is really good to know. Almost makes me want to get one now, but it’s kind of silly that Sofirn/Wurkkos won’t just add an option into the UI to turn Auto-lock off and on… @Wurkkos_Terry
For example, Sofirn SC33 looks amazing on paper - high power LED, great regulated driver, chunky build (in a good way) but that auto-lock feature makes it immediately a no-buy from me.
