simple way converting ultrafire C8 throw to flood (pic)

[Slim_Pickens]

Nice tip! I bet the wider but still throwy looking beam makes for a nice beam for night riding :cowboy_hat_face:

Now I need to get one of those and try it out.

[jaynick]

interesting… is it just me or does it project a horizontal rectangular beam?

i usually use german peel and stick opaque optical sheets that i purchased for only a few dollars from a cpf member. it makes a very wide floody beam thats really even all around with no hotspots or darkspots. its not that easy to remove but it takes about as long as swapping the lens out.

[DayLighter]

@Slim Pickens

Nice tip! I bet the wider but still throwy looking beam makes for a nice beam for night riding :cowboy_hat_face:

Now I need to get one of those and try it out.

you can’t go wrong it’s only cost $4.00
and takes seconds to install and uninstall
i used 2 lights one for throw ( to see 75 feet ahead ) and one for flood ( to see 25 feet ahead)
now i wish they make this wide lens for my Sky Ray S6 headlight or my Sky Ray King flashlight

[jonhobart]

@garrybunk

There’s a link to Action LED Lights in the first post.

-Garry

Thanks, missed the link while reading through it too fast.

[Hill]

@DayLighter

@jacktheclipper

Ordered !

Thanks for the link , Daylighter .

Gonna see if it makes a good biking beam for my XIN TD .

actually i bought this for my bicycle light… one of those chinese XML T6 “1600” lumen it turn out the head size and reflector size is identical to my ultrafire C8 but much brighter unfortunately the wide lens are a bit smaller than the glasses for both light… simple solution… install the wide lens and the glass together for perfect fit just remember to install the wide lens vertical not horizontal. the trick is to hold the wide lens in one hand and then using the other hand to tighten the bezel it will help keep it vertical finished BEFORE AFTER ( 30 degrees wider vs original 10 degrees) the distance is about 50 feet

I did the same for my XML bike light. The stock set up produces too much throw for a bike light. The wide angle lens is great at spreading the beam out. Here is another example showing the difference between stock light and wide lens modified.

[jacktheclipper]

I like what this did for my Xin TD beam .

Crazy whitewall , but great for biking .

Yep .

[DayLighter]

@jacktheclipper

I like what this did for my Xin TD beam .

Crazy whitewall , but great for biking .

Yep .

yep… i’m trying to create a home made diffuser for my other lights… imagine Sky Ray king with diffuser?

[whokilledJR]

Hmmm, I made the same suggestion a couple of months back on my JM07 review:

Review: Old vs new - JM07 side-clicky (**Pic heavy**)

[image] The new Shadow JM07 with Side-clicky. In my quest to find the perfect cycling flashlight, I’ve decided that pairs is the way to go, for looks, a clean beam profile void of different tints and double the lumens, and that flashlight just got a little better. The new look JM07 compared to the old looks like it’s finished a hard day in the woods, blinged and tuxed out and ready for a dinner party. The new look JM07 is definitely JRapproved! My new addiction to flashlights go hand in han…

post 25, although there seems to be an image problem with the post at the moment.

Fits almost perfect on the new JM07.

[DayLighter]

@whokilledJR

Hmmm, I made the same suggestion a couple of months back on my JM07 review:

Review: Old vs new - JM07 side-clicky (**Pic heavy**)

post 25, although there seems to be an image problem with the post at the moment.

Fits almost perfect on the new JM07.

sorry… didn’t even know this site exist… i just found out about this site in late november:)
actually i’ve been using the wide lens adapter since summer… just didn’t use C8 as my bike light…

[whokilledJR]

@DayLighter

@whokilledJR

Hmmm, I made the same suggestion a couple of months back on my JM07 review:

Review: Old vs new - JM07 side-clicky (**Pic heavy**)

post 25, although there seems to be an image problem with the post at the moment.

Fits almost perfect on the new JM07.

sorry… didn’t even know this site exist… i just found out about this site in late november:)
actually i’ve been using the wide lens adapter since summer… just didn’t use C8 as my bike light…

Hey, no accusations here! Just sayin, trying like to gain some credit.

[M3TAL_L0RD]

EDIT:

real life quick shot (was pretty cold barefooted and wearing t-shirt, temp -20C)

XinTD C8 V3 NW

ebay XM-L headlamp 2x18650 with wide angle lens, 1/4 CTO Lee Filter and original lens

[RaceR86]

Anyone seen something like this from a “China-store” with free shipping?

[Touchofred]

Since this concerns the Ultrafire C8, i must ask.

I just got my C8 a few days ago. And i was VERY dissapointed about this light.
My WF502-b is alot brighter, throws better and everything about it is better.
Is there something wrong with my C8?

[garrybunk]

Can you check tailcap current with a digital multimeter with thick wire leads? Sounds like it's under-driven. The bigger reflector of the C8 should cause it to throw much better than a P60.

Here's a comparison beamshot I did here showing a KD C8 XM-L at 3A versus a Fake Solarforce L2 (P60) at 3A:

KD C8 (mouse out) and Fake L2 (Mouse over):

-Garry

[Touchofred]

First time using a Multimeter. But i first choosed the 1.2Volt, and i didnt understand why it showed .1v. But i changed it to 12v, and now it works.
And i first tried on my 18650 3400mAh. i got 4.18volts.
Then i putted it in the light, and i measured from the battery and from the “Non-anodized” threads on the flashligt, correct?
i got right above 3volts.

I also tried on my WF502B, i got 4volts.

So my C8 is broken?

@garrybunk

Can you check tailcap current with a digital multimeter with thick wire leads? Sounds like it’s under-driven. The bigger reflector of the C8 should cause it to throw much better than a P60.

Here’s a comparison beamshot I did here showing a KD C8 XM-L at 3A versus a Fake Solarforce L2 (P60) at 3A:

KD C8 (mouse out) and Fake L2 (Mouse over):

-Garry

[garrybunk]

Ok, you need to test for current (DC Amps, set to 10A or 20A setting and move your positive meter lead (if necessary) to the jack used for the 10A / 20A setting (should be marked). Ground lead stays in the same ground jack. Then put the ground lead on the negative end of the battery and touch the positive lead to the flashlight body . Then to change modes you just touch & release one of the leads mimicking pushing a switch on/off. You may find that you need thicker homemade leads to get more realistic readings (you may be able to just bind up and shove an end with bare wire into the meters jack and then use the other end of wire at the flashlight).

Report back with your findings.

-Garry

[Touchofred]

@garrybunk

Ok, you need to test for current (DC Amps, set to 10A or 20A setting and move your positive meter lead (if necessary) to the jack used for the 10A / 20A setting (should be marked). Ground lead stays in the same ground jack. Then put the ground lead on the negative end of the battery and touch the positive lead to the flashlight body . Then to change modes you just touch & release one of the leads mimicking pushing a switch on/off. You may find that you need thicker homemade leads to get more realistic readings (you may be able to just bind up and shove an end with bare wire into the meters jack and then use the other end of wire at the flashlight).

Report back with your findings.

-Garry

The multimeter ive got can only measure 20mA or 200mA

[garrybunk]

Sorry, looks like you need to shop for a new meter.

-Garry

[DayLighter]

@garrybunk

Ok, you need to test for current (DC Amps, set to 10A or 20A setting and move your positive meter lead (if necessary) to the jack used for the 10A / 20A setting (should be marked). Ground lead stays in the same ground jack. Then put the ground lead on the negative end of the battery and touch the positive lead to the flashlight body . Then to change modes you just touch & release one of the leads mimicking pushing a switch on/off. You may find that you need thicker homemade leads to get more realistic readings (you may be able to just bind up and shove an end with bare wire into the meters jack and then use the other end of wire at the flashlight).

Report back with your findings.

-Garry

hmm… my C8 measure 1.09… is that bad?

[garrybunk]

1.09 is really low. That's more like a "medium" output level if the measurement is accurate. Are you sure you're using a decent quality meter and good thick leads? See my test with my two meters and different leads on my KD C8. I now only use my Elenco meter with homemade test leads made from 12ga wire and banana plugs from Radio Shack. I get results consistent with other users now.

-Garry