Ah that explains it. Never ran into this before with any of my other Anduril lights, so it stood out. It’s fine as it is, it’s ramping after all. Just need to stop pressing earlier if I want it less bright
Mine just showed up today. Ordered 3/19. I never look at tracking so I don’t know what it showed. Since it looks like my previous SP10’s I am familiar with it. But so far I can’t switch from simple UI to advanced UI.
Edit: Doh! I now see 10H means click 9 times and hold the 10th. Now I really love it. The only problem is remembering all the Anduril 2 commands since I was used to the old one.
I received my black SP10 Pro today from Sofirn. It took 19 days to get to Chicago, not bad. Unfortunately, the 14500 battery that was to be included was missing from the order! I contacted Sofirn and asked them to send me the battery.
But, it sure works great with an Eneloop. The ceiling is much brighter than I expected.
Purchased a black one for $25 shipped with a coupon. Hoping green gets in stock soon. Doubt blue will be available for a while since the regular sp10 hasn’t had blue in stock for months.
Green and red were probably the easier ones to anodize since the regular sp10 is still selling those colors
Mine arrived today (EU). Ordered on 30th March, from both Ali (black) and from Sofirn store (red). The Ali black arrived today, the other one still in transit.
It also does this “change lightness when turning it off” thingy. Mostly it goes lower for maybe .3-.5 seconds and then it turns off. But I had it also go to full power output, which was unpleasant to say the least.
Regarding the clip, I almost immediately broke mine. Pulled it off the light to try to squeeze it a bit since it was very loose. It shattered with a very little force.
So I used one from tool AA with some grinding since the part that hugs the body is a bit wider than the slot. It fits nice for my uses. Shame the tube is not reversible, so I can’t use it on a cap like the original one.
Overall, I’m pretty satisfied for now. Using it with the 14500 battery that came with the tool AA as well, which gives me Micro USB charging, and a solid output.
table(table#posts).
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Did two mods to my SP10 pro and the thing became better for me.
1) A dedomed Nichia 519A brought the CCT to 3350K, CRI to 96.5, R9 96, and duv a cosy rosy –0.0037 (at some medium setting). A good tint became a much better tint for the snob. The output went down 80 lumens from 300 to 220 lm so this is not for everyone.
2) I sanded a M8 brass washer to shape and glued it as a bezel around the switch with clear Araldite epoxy so that the button does not stick out anymore, switching action is still good and I bet it does not fire in my pocket accidentally nearly as often as without it.
great info! it happens to match the DUV of my dedomed 519a in a Ti LAN, measured with an Opple:
.
I tested at max output w AA, which on my meter was 104 lumens… The dedomed beam in the Reylight reflector is really excellent, completely smooth spill transition.
How is the dedomed beam in your SP10 PRO… any shadow rings in the spill?
Here is what I have for you, I’m not going to pry out the driver now, it may be glued and it works fine now. It looks like it has a secondary board perpendicular to this one, no doubt that is where the switch is.
Thank you very much djozz!
It seems that the overal shape/structure is more or less similar to the SP10A/B driver.
It doesn’t have a retaining ring there, has it?
Eventually it will fit on the older hosts, depending on the “perpendicular” board and wiring.
Ahah, super!
So, the switch is different from the older SP10 models, but the overall structure and fitting seems similar. Eventually there may be some differences in sizes, but they are probably minimal!
Thanks for pointing up your post and for the teardown of the flashlight’s head!