Ahh thanks very much. I also have a couple SC31 pro that I’m looking to flash so I’ve been looking at guides for them mainly so that’s why I purchased the USBASP. I thought I’d start on the SP10 pro as the contact points are easier to access. I’ll buy the new adapter for the SP10 pro if I have to but I have PL2303HX USB to TTL RS232 COM UART Module Serial Cable Adapter for Arduino https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263864494229 that I used once to mod an ISP locked modem router for WRT firmware. Would that be suitable?
Yes, that should work. I believe SammysHP successfully used a PL2303.
The thing to watch out for is if there is an RX LED inside for some reason, you will likely need to disable that (cut it’s trace or remove the LED/resistor) as the LED interferes with the signal.
Thread ownership transferred temporarily to gchart. As soon as Lux-Perpetua is ready to take over again just let me know. Thanks a lot!
Does anyone have an Astrolux A03 to compare it with the SP10 Pro side by side, or give some info on (comparable) dimmensions etc?
Thanks in advance 
Before I purchase a 3rd sp10pro. Will sofirn release a bare aluminum or non ano version?
Not exactly but FWIW here’s a screen capture from one of The_Flasholic excellent videos. showing an SP10S against the A03. The A03 appears shorted but thicker.
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Thanks pc_light I might have missed that video.
Seems, indeed, to be thicker, despite this perspective always change the look of the objects on each extreme.
I found this video in which they don’t seem much different, but there is always a margin for smaller differences.
Again, thank you for the reply :+1:
Anyone know of any TIRs for SP10Pro? Ones that don’t need to be shaved or cut down preferred.
Just tried it, no difference. I’m not able to get more than 3.0 A through this light.
-#define PWM1_LEVELS _PWM1_LEVELS_,_PWM2_TOPS_
+#define PWM1_LEVELS 1,2,4,6,9,12,15,19,23,28,34,41,48,55,64,3072,1960,2372,1476,2097,1572,1920,1570,1777,1524,1646,1454,1286,1369,1234,1115,1011,918,837,894,823,759,702,650,603,560,522,487,455,425,398,374,351,330,310,292,275,259,280,265,251,266,253,240,252,240,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,255,0
yes
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/u3fjgc/nednmd_sp10_pro_sst20_with_convoy_20_tir_manker/
> that don’t need to be shaved or cut
no, that link describes modification
there is also this link
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/u52w10/nmd_sp10_pro_with_tir/
that describes a much easier modification
Just got mine - wow, great job Sofirn and everyone here who helped! I got a red one and it had a little glue. A heat gun and rubber gloves opened it right up. I put in an SST-20 3,000k.
I agree with everything that’s been said, e.g. bad clip, button could be better, etc. But aside from that, this seems like a winner.
One thing I haven’t seen mentioned - this would be a great bedside table light. With auto-lockout you get foolproof access to an incredibly low mode with no chance of blinding yourself or others. Granted, most any Anduril light would be great for this purpose but the moonlight here is lower than I’ve seen on most lights.
Very cool, thanks. Hopefully someone finds a drop-in solution but that second link sounds easy enough.
Thanks! I don’t have the right tools to measure it, but it’s good to know the lower output is due to hardware rather than anything I did.
My quest for pieces to mod the SP10Pro when it arrives hasn’t stopped.
I am looking for an alternative bezel, as I think the SP10 could have been done shorter in that case and could have used a TIR.
I tried some of my lights and so far only the bezel from my Manker E11 fits.
Has anyone tried different bezels there that fit/lego?
Any hint would be nice. 
I also inform that other AA flashlight hosts such as the Wuben E05 and the Manker E11 won’t be able to accomodate the SP10 driver without major mods (may not fit even after that). I have an old SP10A driver, that has the same overall structure and for one of another reason, it doesn’t fit well on those lights.
the FWAA bezel legos with the SP10
I believe it could be battery related. Unlike the larger battery sizes, we seldom call on a 14500 battery to deliver more than 3A so high-drain current hasn’t been an issue, until now.
I went through my cache of 14500 cells, there are probably more in some stored lights but these were handy.
Most were capable or 2.5-3A but only the two on the right went far above (5-7A). Even then neither would hold it very long before stepping down. I couldn’t tell you if it was the Anduril temperature, battery sag, protection circut, or some combination but I wouldn’t be comfortable running 5A through a tiny 14500 light anyway, I have larger batteries/lights for that purpose.
Unfortunately I don’t have meter to measure brightness, nor a V3 to compare.
Unfortunately it doesn’t :cry: 
When I took that photo it was merely to indicate an ideal length (for me) for the SP10 (when the project was still being discussed), and comparing it with other AA lights.
The FWAA and FW1AA’s bezels only “sit” on the threads, they don’t screw/unscrew.
Nor does the one from the Eagtac D25C, as example.
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The same battery in a SP10 V3 almost hits 5 A, see my comparison here: Sofirn SP10 Pro (AA/14500/Andúril 2) - now available! - #1765 by SammysHP
OIC, my bad didn’t read the entire thread. Strange behaviour indeed. Variability with FET?
I don’t have a V3 but fwiw my SP10A w/Anduril (using gChart chip mod) on turbo draws comparable to the SP10 Pro over 3A using the same capable battery. I can’t read output though.
Got mine in today! It is the greenest LH351D I have ever seen! They also forgot the magnetic tailcap, really wanted that for work. Found it was loose in the bag and fell out when I opened it.
Overall, it is a really nice light. Button does not feel bad at all, ramping very smooth and so far the light does not seem to spike brightness at turnoff. Runs great on a lithium primary as well… but clip really sucks. Going to have to modify the tailcap for use with FWAA clip, or epoxy the stock clip in place.
Forgot to mention that mine is glued up very tight, still have not gotten it apart. Usual methods have failed, guess I will try some heat next.
Finally got into it! Added some 803 filter to it for the time being and looks pretty good now. Also, heat shrink on the body tube clip groove was to thick and scrunched around when putting the clip on, but heat shrink on the arms of the clip works pretty well.