Nuts, I was hoping the button would be a little resistant to pocket powerup…one of the reasons I wanted their usual rubber button with the trim ring style to be on this light (or a raised ring/recessed button). With some lights that have clip grooves near the head end I can use a deep carry clip facing backwards and rotate that over the button for pocketing…that works pretty well. I have one of these on the way. Looks like I may be trying to craft a clip that will reach down far enough to protect the button, although with these I really prefer to remove the clips entirely. Might lean toward mech lockout instead of the auto lockout.
Does that zebra have a boost driver? Asking that many lumens from NiMH isn’t going to make those batteries happy. 250-300 seems like a great level.
No issues with lithium metal primaries like what was discovered with the T4?
I’d be curious to hear real world results on this. As long as voltage is 2.0 V or less, it should be good. And if we discover otherwise, a small firmware tweak could fix that (setting: DUAL_VOLTAGE_FLOOR)
Have you tried using the clip at 90 degrees from the button so it’s at an angle that theoretically reduces the likelihood of being pressed in your pocket? Or are you the sort to let the light sit in the bottom of your pocket instead of clipping it?
After making that video and swapping from Alkaline to Li-ion, The flashlight now behaves differently when turning off
When I press the switch to turn the light off, the flashlight will step down to a lower level first and then turn off; and other times, the light will flash at max ramp before turning off. I’ve done a factory reset, and it still does this. This happens about 50% of the time.
Currently charging my H10 back up to 4.2v to see if that might kick it up the butt into fixing itself, although it’s wishful thinking!
Just a quick question regarding Anduril2 and this flashlight. I’m going to be using the lockout far more than the voltage check so is there a way to swap the shortcuts through button presses or am I going to have to buy some kit and figure out how to edit and flash the firmware?
Yeah, usually autolock eliminates most of the need to lock lights manually.
In general though, it’s still a good idea to have a flashing kit, because then you can customize absolutely anything you want. It also means you can get updates.
What does version check say? Also, what brightness is the light at before turning it off? If you smooth ramp up and down a lot from the lowest level to medium-ish (like maybe step 1/150 to 50/150), is it always smooth, or does it have a bright flash once in a while?
I ran into some PWM phase sync issues back in September or October, due to the way the attiny1616 handles pulse generation. I fixed every case I found, but it’s possible you may have gotten something with older firmware, or maybe not every case was fixed. It may perhaps need to wait a few extra milliseconds between setting the PWM level to 0 and going to sleep mode.
The only remaining issue I’ve noticed on mine is that sometimes when I turn it off, the LED will glow very slightly for a few seconds while a capacitor drains or something, before it fades out.
Mine arrived today. Thoroughly impressed with the light, especially at this price point. I’ve always had a liking for infinitely variable lights that use a humble AA cell. Sincere thanks to everyone involved .