The brightness is around the third stepped ramp (maybe a little higher); It also does the flashing anywhere below that.
Ramping up and down a lot is smooth.
When ramping around that level (50/150ish), there is a high-pitched sound (a sort of “powering up” sound) and the issue seems to happen within that “powering up” sound (sorry, not very technical, I know).
I don’t mind the lower level flashing before turning off, but the max ramp flash in the night is something else haha
Very impressive. Works flawlessly on both AA and 14500. Love the Anduril 2 ui. Kudos to the design team on the driver. This is an excellent light for the price point!
The only flaws seem to related to the choice of the SP10v3 host:
(1) The clip is awful.
It’s a yucky bi-directional clip whose extra bend gets in the way
It’s too loose. It rotates around the light and is too easy to remove (this might be fixable by bending the arms of the clip in slightly).
It’s too short
Because there’s no lip, hooking it onto anything is a 2-handed operation, requiring manually lifting up the arm with one hand while the other holds the light.
(2) It tailstands, but not as well as earlier SP10 versions. The 2 cutouts in the tailcap don’t help. However, it does still tailstand so this is acceptable. Barely.
(3) The button is far too easy to accidentally press. The button is so sensitive I experienced accidental activation just from the light brushing my T-shirt when I had it clipped to the outside of my sweats. Lockout is mandatory with this light. Autolockout works, but is much less convenient than a well designed switch that does not need any lockout.
With the SP10 Pro with autolockout activated I need at minimum 4 clicks to get to turbo (assuming light memory was set to turbo).
In contrast, with my Zebralight SC52w I can get to max with a single click from off. The switch is stiff and deeply recessed. I can pocket carry it without fear of accidental activation without needing lockout.
It’s possible that placing a washer around the button might alleviate the switch problems. I did that with some earlier model SP10 lights with mixed success. It reduced accidental activation, but not to the point where I felt safe carrying it without lockout. Also, the switch button on the SP10 Pro is larger than on the earlier models (except for the v3). Finding a washer that fits and looks good might be a bit harder.
I solved all the clip problems by replacing the stock clip with a modified deep-carry FWAA clip. Much better.
Was speaking with Sofirn, and they are sending me a new flashlight!
Thanks to everyone who gave suggestions of what the problem might be; I was relaying them to Sofirn as I had no idea, and I think that helped me get a replacement, so thank you!
It seems making the first AA compatible Anduril UI light was a smashing success. It appears the next project would be getting it in a better host. Progress is inevitable but not always timely.
Since I don’t want to wait for that to happen, I’m anxious to see what people can come up with to improve the pocketability of this host, whether it’s better pocket clips or physical protection encircling the switch (washer, etc). Auto lockout is a huge help but great Firmware can only cover over so many physical host design flaws
I think we can be grateful for Sofirn and the project team, recognizing the budget limitations of this light while also recognizing its shortcomings at the same time.
I’m pretty new to Anduril but I’m having some trouble getting the memory to set. I’ve set the autolock (4C to lock, then 10H to turn on and 1C to set to 1 minute) but I can’t seem to get it to always turn on in the lowest level. I turn it on, I ramp up or down to a desired level (I ramp down to lowest level), then I 10C to try and set that to memory but that’s not working. Have I misunderstood or are other people having issues with memory?
The same FWAA deep carry clips as modded in this thread all fit.
The new clip will cause the tailcap to screw in a hair too short to make contact with the body tube. To solve this I cut some thing brass sheet into a “C” shape and inserted it at the bottom of the tailcap. But if you do not have brass sheet, some solder braid bent into shape works.
Once that is in the tailcap, just unscrew it and slip the clip on. Any FWAA clip should slip in perfectly. However, I prefer the modified deep-carry clip for its slimness and deep carry.
Very odd. Manual memory is not working on mine. I just received 2 from the Sofirn website. Not sure what is going on here…
Edit: Never mind, must have set timer by accident.
So, my tint seems warmer than 5000K (which I like). The clips are terrible. I put on alternative slide on clips and messed up the anodizing on one light trying not to mess up the anodizing.
The other is fine. In any case, Anduril 2 in AA and 14500 with single LED, all for under $25. I’m happy.
I’m putting some full kits together right now that will probably be $10 or less with US shipping, but shipping outside of the US would be expensive ($14+ for shipping alone). You can use something like the CH340-based USB to Serial TTL adapter shown below. Jump across the RX and TX pins with a Schottky diode like a BAT54WS or B5819WS as described here. You could probably use bent-up male pins from dupont wires for a temporary flashing key, or you can use a “proper” pogo-pin adapter like this one with P50-B1 pogo pins. Pymcuprog would then be used do to the flashing.
, I should try those serial to TTL adapters, I bought several and also CH340s to assemble the all in one board you shared, but since the Xplained nano works very well for flashing I just haven’t yet.
Apparently the Wurkkos WK10 will also use a T1616, more lights coming out with them means that more people will need a programmer, hopefully Sofirn will get on it.
Just unpackaged my Sp10 Pro and its pretty much exactly as expected. Only tested on alkaline and the included 14500 and it seems to work fine. I’m normally not a fan of side switches- for multiple reasons- but this one seems tolerable. Not quite as easy to find/use by touch as a zebralight but better than many. The washer trick won’t work so well as it already sits in a slight recess. While with the stock configuration the lock out mode still offers two very usable modes (single click moon and double click for a utility level). May or may not end up gluing the clip in place to aid in sight-free orientation and button finding as I have found that helped a LOT on my IF25A (I didn’t glue that one but the armytek wizard clip indexes quite securely).
I know a lot of people like the 5000k LH351D and its very OK… but I’m in for a red to match this green if they do a 3500k!!
, I should try those serial to TTL adapters, I bought several and also CH340s to assemble the all in one board you shared, but since the Xplained nano works very well for flashing I just haven’t yet.