I’ll take it.
Hi Lexel.
I send you a PM but don’t know if you receive it.
OK I ordered 3 MF01 boards
list up to date
Hey Lexel, just confirming, I know the MF01 driver probably can’t have both LVP and an indicator LED, but the drivers have both LVP and a simple lighted side switch?
You can put a simple lighted side switch on anything because it doesn’t have to rely on the driver at all. Just battery power and ground. Twist the end cap 1/4 turn for mechanical lockout and the switch leds turn off. Use the electrical lockout and the switch leds stay on.
Can NarsilM in 2S use the indicator function? I’m not sure. I know the older Narsil could not. Lexel will know for sure.
lighted switch is always possible using the battery voltage and a resisor
any 2S NarsilM driver can choose between LVP and indicator LED as it can be programmed both ways
I need one for the convoy L6.
I have some questions, tried to read on as much as i can but its so much info (and im kinda new to this).
I guess its NarsilM, 2s, startup = 2 blinks, LVP, temp stepdown at 70deg Celcius (Works with ramping?)
How many AMC7135 fits? Are those amc7135 only for modes or does they work ramping also? Better with many of them?
As my soldering skills sux could u solder the spring and spring bypass, solder 2 wires (or only the negative wire since the positive wire goes directly from the spring to the mcpcb?) for the led (maybe u know how long they should be?) aswell solder 3 wires for the e-switch (1 for positive, 1 for negative and 1 for the “power on led” positive) and a ~15k ohm axial resistor if you have one laying around (prolly just gonna break a smd resistor if u put one on).
Wire size? 18awg? 20awg? You prolly know that best.
Yeah. You noticed i dont want to put my solder iron on the driver.
(I dont have so steady hands)
Modes? Put on mode 7 as the cheat sheet. Prolly just gonna use ramping and double click for turbo? And another double click from turbo is for strobe? If i understand the cheat sheet right.
Price? Dont know, just pm me. I know its more then normal because all the wires and the soldered spring…
Im forgetting anything?
For the L6 should be 5cm wires enough, not sure as I dont own one
The AMCs are also used in ramping and modes up to 3.15A, then the Fet is added on higher currents
I got here 0.75mm2 ultra flexible silicone wire for the LED
Its not a problem to add wires for the switch, SMD resistor is fine if secured with epoxy glue
I will pm you tomorrow
Okay, for 2S NarsilM you have to choose between indicator light or LVP. I keep forgetting that. Lol
LVP is always the better choice. You can still have the lighted side switch by using regular battery power. There’s no big loss by not using the “indicator” features.
It’s pretty easy to switch through the modes. I’ve got 6 videos in my signature showing all kinds of Narsil related stuff.
Yeah. Looked at your L6 mod.
I wrote LVP, maybe should have makes it more clear?
1) 30mm 2S NarsilM LDO (temp stepdown?) 70°C, SD (shutdown)=6V, PO (power on)=(2B), lighted sideswitch 2.2k (is this the resistor for the 2P sideswitch leds?) I saw u used a 15k ohm thats why i wrote 15k ohm resistor. + alot of wire and soldered spring + 9 amc7135.
For Convoy L6 XHP70.2 (I hope this is what I wrote in the last post)
Btw what is it that determine what led i can use with this driver? (Volt output)
Is it in the firmware?
Been reading but i cant find the answer.
No, it’s clear. I was just mentioning it for other readers.
Yes. I think Lexel uses 2.2k for 3 volt drivers and 4.7k for 6 volt drivers. Mine came with 4.7k.
If you mean main led, then yes, it’s the voltage. If Lexel makes it for a 6v led then you can use any 6v led such as the 6v versions of the Xhp50, xhp70 or MT-G2. He adds the LDO to feed the MCU exactly half the battery voltage. The MCU needs the lower voltage to operate. It’s also why it blinks out half the actual battery voltage. Both my lights in my signature will blink out 3.8v or 4.1v etc… instead of 7.2v or 8.2v. I didn’t even notice this at first, but it’s fine. If it blinks out 4.1 then you know each cell is at 4.1v.
I’m guessing Lexel can make a 12v version of this driver if you want to run 4 cells in series. Although I don’t think the 7135 chips can handle 12v. So maybe he can’t. IDK. LOL. He’s way more knowledgable about it than I am.
Hi all, I'm afraid I didn't manage to support bistro-HD OTSM very well recently. I think Lexel had a few questions preventing providing it in more configurations. Some of that is maybe getting worked out.
I just noticed this exchange:
So Lexel, there is a little wiggle room here that might help.
In 1S HD absolutely can use "internal" LVP, and if I remember right I even left that as the default in the pre-built hexes. C2 is of course needed because it's what keeps the clock running during power off to measure click time.
However, you're right that in OTSM the divider serves a couple of purposes that are NOT related to LVP:
1) It provides a path to bleed C1 quickly after power off, which is critical to OTSM
2) Voltage is read from the divider to detect the power off (after it bleeds down)
Part 1 can be accomplished with a single bleeder resistor from C1 to ground.
Part 2 can be accomplished with a jumper (or resistor) from the C1 - R5 junction to the divider pin on the mcu., effectively just an R1.
But R2 can then be left off.
That's still two resistors, but I suspect they are easier to place that way, because they aren't daisy chained.
This is pushing the mcu specs, which says the mcu pin should never see more than 0.5V over Vcc. Because of the diode, it's seeing probably 0.2 to 0.4V over. My first test board was run exactly this way though and it worked. You will probably get slightly worse performance, (ie the maximum possible medium press length is reduced) because it will take slightly longer to trigger the power off detection without the divider, but I guess it would work.
It's not a big change, but it could help a little maybe. If you have more questions about it, we can discuss in the HD thread or here.
The DD driver works well with XHP70 and 70.2 with 26650 cells, for both you need a good DTP star cooling because at turbo it drives them with a lot current
XHP50 can be run from 2x18650 or 26350s
XHP50.2 from 2 26350, 2 high drain 18650 could get too high cureent
2.2k is for single cell lights with a pretty bright LED, for L6 you need to go to at least 4.7k or run the LEDs on the switch in series
Basically you can choose any value which suits your brighnesss you want and keeps within the specs of the LED you use
as running em in series is more efficient I would do that if you can cut the ground lane from one LED and connect it to the positive of the other
Changing the L6 switch pcb to series is very complicated with cutting traces and adding tiny wires. It’s not worth the trouble and not necessary.
Lexel, is a 12v version of the TA driver possible when running 4 cells? I’m just curious. Not a big deal.
Interested in a 17mm for a s2+ and 22mm for a L4 if available.
edit: I’ll take the lack of a reply to my comment to mean there are no more available. Thanks anyway.
dont forget to add it for the curoui D1 driver with stock narsil firmware,with ramping and double click for high,thanks.
yeah Narsil has double click for turbo
so I can confirm you will take it?
standard settings?
38.5mm NarsilM 60°C, SD=2.8V, PO=(2B)
60C ? it has temp stepdown? if yes i prefer it to be disabled ,no memory always start from low and what is PO=(2B) ?
Temperature ste p down is to protect the light ar 60° Celsius you cant hold the light that hot, but 70 would be an option at that temperature the whole lioght is too hot to touch with bare hands, even with thin gloves
Power on is what happens if the driver gets connected to the batteries