I know in some places a light seems like it’s beam is strong forever, but other places it fades away before finding a subject. We have ginormous open spaces, ok, big open spaces, NorthWest Texas has the see into tomorrow spaces.
Anyone know if this 50mm aspheric would work same way? I know it doesn't have the same lip around, but in theory it should be a tighter focus.
Tom, I'm about as sure as I can be looking at only the picture that the lens would fit. The focal length may be different though, so more tweaking may be required.
May I ask what is the reason this lens will give a tighter beam?
Cool - already ordered one for the heck of it, and 2 of the one you linked, so maybe I'll give it a try.
Well specs says 2-80 degs, maybe I'm not interpreting this right, but your linked one is 8-120 degrees, so I'm thinking the 2 degrees would be tighter?
Oh thanks for doing this btw... I just ordered qty 2 of the adapters: 1 gray, 1 black. I got 5 of these lights now, soooo maybe I'll set up 2 of them with different setups.
Another tip for an HD2010 change-up: the UniqueFire UF-2200 will LEGO with the HD2010 perfectly, so I really like the 2200 body and tail on the HD2010 head - shorter, thinner, and better quality finishing and better tailcap.
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The 2 black ones pictured above came from TMART - one branded TangsFire the other no brand name on it. You do the math for adding up cost - I got like $60 invested in one of mine (all the mod parts + $33 for the light), maybe $100 in another (yikes - copper pill, mod parts, UF-2200 for the replacement body...), plus $10 for the adapter, plus $4 or so for the lens. It's budget, but not when you sum the parts, then it gets scary... 
Two of my HD2010's are from Tmart. Their price is either the lowest, or close enough. They seem to be sending them out with drivers with real direct drive. Even if their price isn't quite the lowest, the fast customs-free shipping from within the country is well worth a minor difference in price.
thanks guys. tmart has really fast shipping in the us, i’ve been happy with their stuff before, and if i get one, i will get it there.
I did exactly the same. How scary is that? 
I ordered the TangsFire on Oct 31, they marked it shipped on Nov. 11, so it may possibly show up tomorrow but I didn't notice it was below the free tracking amount at the time.
fyi... That UF-2200 tube does shorten the battery spacing quite a bit. Using a powerizer last night, think I blew the driver - the cell compressed the + driver spring so much, possibly the spring or copper braiding shorted out something on the Nanjg I'm using in the vob copper pill. The copper pill itself seems to shorten up the battery spacing also, so the combo seemed lethal...
That’s a lot of cell to be shorting!
Bought mine 30-Oct, shipped 6-Nov it boarded an airplane today after sitting at the processing facility for 9 days according to tracking. Arrival sometime next week!
How much effect does de-doming have on an aspheric? I mean, it’s an obvious win for a reflector-based light, but I haven’t seen any numbers on how it behaves for aspherics.
If I understand correctly, de-doming has a few effects:
- Reduces total lumens. (~40% ?)
- Warms up the tint.
- Reduces the visible size of the emitter (lens acts as a magnifier), which should increase surface brightness.
- Causes a more even distribution of light output (?), since the dome isn’t focusing light forward… so more light goes into the reflector for a brighter spot, but it’d also mean less light goes forward into a lens.
So, I’d expect a de-domed emitter to produce a smaller spot via an aspheric lens, but it also reduces total output and may also throw away a higher portion of the light… What sort of difference can be expected for lux? Is it still a net win?
I’ve been wanting a good “light saber” torch for a while, with a tight, intense beam… and this looks like a very good way to do that. But I’ve never de-domed a LED and am a bit wary of attempting to solder anything nontrivial. What kind of lux would a stock HD2010 get with just the lens swap? And, if modding further, how much difference does the emitter type make? (xp-g2 would perhaps be higher lux than xm-l2, no?)
- De-doming lumens reduction has been very consistent for me - about 20%, like maybe 18% to 22% roughly.
- de-doming in an aspheric seems to have the same result as de-doming in a reflector based light - about doubles the kcd.
- use the gas method, it's the easiest and simplest - I could even do it . Actually I've done dozens... (https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/17374)
- in aspherics, you will get a narrower more intense beam also. XP-G2's will throw better than XM-L2's, and XP-E2's will throw better than XP-G2's, but, I mean big "BUT": at the same lower amps! XM-L2's can be driven at high amps, XP-G2's seem to have problems from single cell non-boost drivers when de-domed on copper which holds them back at high amps, and XP-E2's cannot be driven at high amps without sag. An XP-E2 will have the narrowest beam, then XP-G2, then XM-L2.
So Tom, would you go with an XP-G2 under this glass? I got my spacer today, thanks Matt, still looking for my copper pill. I was thinking about an XP-G2 for this, when I had one in the regular reflector it did indeed produce more throw but at the cost of less spill of course. So in an aspheric set-up, where no spill is expected, seems the smaller die would be the way to go and keep the amps down around 4A. Less heat to deal with, nice tight beam….am I thinking right?
Dunno - I think there will be advantages here being able to use the Powerizer cell, so thinking an XP-G2 at an attempted 5A may be nice, but an XM-L2 at 5A will be a broader beam. If this works out, the 230 kcd I have now with an XM-L2 may approach 400 kcd, and an XP-G2 if it can work at 5A will certainly well exceed it. I'm ordering 2, I got 4 HD 2010's now, 1 more on the way, so maybe I'll do one of each.
Did you see the new high bin XP-E2 Hank has? Wow - an R4 - I'm ordering some!
I did a couple of de-domed XP-G2's in a UniqueFire T20 and they came out pretty good, but lower amps than expected, so result was still better than a XM-L2, but not significantly. But a Powerizer is better than a Sam 20R, so Id' expect to get over 4A. Hhmmm, I could test that out now -- think I couldn't hit the 7135 amp level with the Sam 20R on my T20, so, could open it up and try the Powerizer - that's the ultimate test.
If I recall #'s, the domed XP-G2 got about 75 kcd, so was expecting 150 kcd, but, only got 135 kcd because the amps dropped after de-doming. This might have been in a Convoy C8, not the T20, but think the #'s were bout the same.
If I remember correctly, my zy-t13 with crelant head went from about 140-150kcd to just over 200kcd after Dedome. It could have been more, maybe from 120kcd... Will have to look it up tomorrow. But, there is a significant increase from dome to Dedome with aspherics...
You might like to know about this…I had the MT-G2 on a Noctigon in a Solarforce M8, Direct Drive. The 20R’s allowed 12.18A to the MT-G2 for a start-up lumen reading of 4140! They fell like the proverbial ton of bricks, in 30 seconds output was down to 2284 lumens and the poor little M8 pill was HOT! I’ve got a half inch of copper shoved into the pill, soldered into the brass sleeve that used to house the driver. Wasn’t nearly enough. Not at that power level anyway.
With it being so hot in direct drive, I decided to put a Qlite on it, modded with the Zener mod and 2 stacked chips (ran out of chips, more on the way) So at 3.74A it’s putting out 1428 OTF and stabilizing at around 1000. Not to be too satisfied with it, I shaved the dome off. Not a technical de-dome as there is still about 1/32” of silicon on top of the phosphor, but the beam is much tighter and the spill is warm as compared to the hot-spot being white. Pretty nice overall, surprising throw from an MT-G2! Remember, the M8 has a hybrid reflector, about 12mm of orange peel with the majority smooth shiny perfection. Top of the shaved emitter sits just about flush with the inside of the reflector, works very well.
Thinking this might be yet another option for an HD2010, the aspheric will show every single tiny die in the big emitter, pretty cool stuff! I held the 50mm aspheric in focus over an MT-G2 at 4.76A and the 84? dies showed on the wall. 
Shaving the dome cost output, indeed, but I’ll bring it back up with some more chips, at least part of the way…
Hadn’t seen that XP-E2, thanks for the heads up. That one might be a little too lasery for me. When I need that, I’ll break out the actual laser that hit’s some 2 miles off……
Oh Mr. Mailman Got some shiny coppery goodness in the truck for me?
Hmmm, does the lower tint of a de-dome come into play with the aspheric or does the intense hot spot make up for it? I don’t really like how much warmer most of my de-domes are.
I think the intense beam would make up for it, but can not say for sure... The extent of my dedomes are xre. And I'm pretty sure those get colder, and they have the nasty Cree ring too