I was finally able to get my Stanley fatmax apart today. They key was a new 3mm allen wrench. I guess mine was more worn out than I thought…
Remove the front rubber bezel piece, 4 allen screws and heatsinks. Use a sharp knife and cut the foam gasket tape underneath the rubber bezel, at 2 locations where the halves come together.
Remove the kickstand by prying off the 2x black covers and 2x screws. The part is flexible plastic so just carefully stretch and pull it off.
Remove black screws around the perimeter
Pry the handle grip HERE: Its rubber skin glued onto plastic, so make sure your knife edge gets underneath the plastic frame layer.
Remove one more screw in the handle
You should be able to lift the halves apart.
Circuit board. Just as I feared everything is Integral on one board. Charging circuit, HI-LO program modes and EPROM controller + LED driver. Modding this is going to be an “all or nothing” affair. Thats kind of a bummer.
Cast aluminum heatink
LED star, held down with screws and thermal grease
Plastic reflector (mine was very dirty and dusty, this was pretty much my main reason for wanting to take it apart, that and of course scoping it out for mods). I was also able to center the LED better…. no more egg shaped hot spot.
This stupid thing however was my biggest peeve about the light. They use a rubber gasket around the lens, and its really too small and thin of a material. So it “falls off” the glass, and into the path of the light under its own tension. Imagine trying to stretch a ~1/4 thick rubber band around the edge of a dinner plate. My solution was to cut it and alleviate the tension so it would stay snugly in-place around the perimeter of the glass without sliding off and into the reflector area. Thank goodness thats fixed!! They got it right though with a well made glass window. Its not AR coated, but its better than the cheap plastic I have seen on other LED spot lights.
2x18650 in series. The additional wires are for the balance charging circuit built into the OEM board.
2000mah spec’d, made in China
Higher res images of the board (56K!!!)
Can anyone ID the current sense resistor?
I re-attached the heatsinks and ran the light on the bench for 15 mintes. It did get very warm, but not what I would consider alarmingly hot, or skin-scalding hot. So it most definitely is under-driven to some degree. Neat thing about this design is I could touch the flat area RIGH beneath the heatsink and really monitor thermals from the source of the heat, all the way through the conduction path. I believe its most definitely a cast aluminum chassis assembly. The temperatues rose slowly and uniformly through all the heatsinking materials. At no point could I feel a drastic difference in temperature resulting from the thermal junction between the cast metal and the black anodize metal. IMHO Stanley engineers did their homework on this one.
It probably wouldn’t be too hard to mount a TIR optic in there and get a more open flood-beam.
Current draw from the 2x cells: Really easy current load on the cheap 18650 cells. I forgot to take a measurement on LO though… Oops.
Flipped the meter to read AC-Hz and I could not measure any PWM.
I think theres some real mod-potential here. The OEM switch is spec’d at 25V / 5A. So while it certainly can handle the load of a 3-3.5A draw there could be some resistive/parasidic activities going on there.