Lots of good info in that thread gords posted above including discussion on S2 vs. S3. I also linked Match's thread on XM-L (& other emitters) testing (output at various current levels) in post #6 in that thread - here is link to Match's test (note that a T6 bin was tested, so U2 would be slightly higher). At 1050mA you're looking at +/-395 lumens, vs. +/-852 lumens at 2,800mAh according to that chart. (Bookmark that thread too - I reference it all the time.)
-Garry
Looks like a good host to me. I almost bought one myself.
-Garry
Neckdo, that host looks pretty good price wise, I’d guess it needs a 16mm star as it doesnt seem to say, at 1.4a you’ll have plenty of run time and good flood with the xm-l/op reflector, and its unlikely to over heat.
For both you and Gerry, a typical high current for xm-l is 2.8 - 3.0a (2800ma - 3000ma) you can go higher in the right host, but I wouldn’t want to in an edc, their just not big enough, one of my edc’s runs at 1.7a (trustfire t2, nw xp-g) one at 2.6a (edc 18650, u2 1c) one at 2.8a (xiozhi xm-l 3c). All get hot on high fairly quick (minutes) if your not holding them in hand. I use medium and low mostly, so 1.4a would be my medium on two, 1a is close to the t2’s medium all three have usefully high lows, I could easily go lower but they are not uncomfortable when used as night lights when the baby wakes up or checking the other kids.
I hope all this helps.
I got most of the above, I'm bad at deciding 
... Love the T2 for throw/feel, but my modd'ed HD2011 w/U3 1C @2.8A is my latest "wow" - really nice wide beam from the shallow, heavy OP'ed reflector, and the 1C provides just enough neutral tint for me -- cheap housing, but for $10 +$10 or so in parts, it's the brightest of the lot and the heat is tolerable (potted driver, teflon 22 gauge wires, thicker star, Arctic epoxy).
The XIAOZHI is nice though - nice mode UI, nice feel, no SS head though, it is 2.8A - think the listing says 2.3A. My ceiling bounce test says the mod'ed HD2011 beats the XIAOZHI, the T2, and the I-O EDC 18650 @2.8A. Didn't mod the T2 yet, but will be doing it like Gords, but in cooler tint.
Many thanks, garry. There is some real good information in the references you provided.
It was interesting to learn that the S3 is 4mm shorter than the S2. That might be the difference in the body accepting the Panasonic protected battery.
Considering that heat builds up pretty fast in these type lights, I am thinking I might go the S2 2100 and using it on low most of the time. That might let me use the Panasonic protected battery, and have a relatively run time at a reasonable light level for most tasks.
I really do appreciate all the help and the information you have provided.
Jerry
Jerry, in that situation I think you’ll have a real good edc :bigsmile:
Tom, get an xp-g2 in the t2, I’m hoping to do an edc shoot out later, with a few others added, but I put an xp-g2 in my uf-v3, I used an m10 driver as mine was real underdriven, 2.5a on the u2, 2a on the xp-g2. Have a look at the crappy beam shots here :-
These really don’t do it justice, I’m hoping to do better, but I want an xp-g2 and another 350ma in the t2, you’ll love it. 8)
Gords - interesting... I got an extra XP-G2 and need a new emitter in my UF-V3, so... I got a KD V2 @3.4A in the UF-V3 now with a brass pill press fitted in - came out real nice. The UF-V3 lacks weight/mass but the brass w/copper inserted into that pill worked out well. Do you think an XP-G2 can handle 3.4A?
I know you’re asking gords, but you know there’s only one way to find out! Actually, according to Match’s test, it started giving less output after 2.6A.
-Garry
Yep - forgot, Match is the man! Hhhmm, wonder if those super $$$ new XP-G2 throwers are only in that range of amps (SaabLuster's OSTS TN31, the Deft X). I know they are bonding to copper, so maybe they can tweak out more amps? I know there's been a published chart on CPF showing an XML increasing output higher than Match's show, but who knows...
Saablusters pushing close in 4a through an xp-g2, but its direct copper bonded, as I say, mine pulls 2a from the driver that’s in, its damm throwy that’s for sure. Why not shove a 6*7135 in there to kick off with? I’m actually buzzing from what I get out of so little juice - run time from a 3400mah cell! :bigsmile:
Hey, TomE, can you post all of them together? Beamshots only, wanna see beam profiles. Not necessary on high, but pics shouldn’t be overexposed. Thanks a bunch 
Just thinking about this, when my uf-v3 had an xm-l it drew 2.5a, put in the xp-g2, it only pulled 2a. I asked johnnymac about it and his comment was it’ll only pull what it wants, maybe try hooking it up and testing with a meter before screwing the tailcap on, it’ll take what? Ten minutes at most, you don’t even need to remove the pill, just screw the head off, whole light into some soft jaws, solder away. :bigsmile:
Gords - oh boy - I'm dragging us off topic on the UF-V3, I'm posting a reply to your Uf-V3 thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/10206#comment-303246
SashiX - I can post beam shots, got a setup for it, hopefully this morn.
My Xiaozhi arrived today, a lot of chips/cuttings on the inside, I had to take it apart and clean it all over.
Now I like it !
Nice. It’s a great light. 8)
I purchased one of these lights after reading your post. I had good service from Fancy Flashlights and I like the light, especially considering the price. Thanks.
I got mine today with NW option for a couple of bucks more….
Like this light. Mine is not dirty but dry. A little lube on the double o-rings and all is good.
Built/fit and finish are very good.
Threads are not squared. But well done, fits and threads well.
GID tail cap buttom sticks out and won’t tail stand. (I guess I will use a glass-cup standing if needs be).
Very bright. For such a small reflector and xml led - still have a good hot spot to throw a little bit.
Lanyard is kind of meh!!!
Now it would have been nice if they have a listing for the pouch on the light page that fits! But that would be way too smart, right?
Thinking about “Convoy S2 Cree XM-L U2-1B 2-Group 3/5-Mode EDC LED Flashlight” 2.8 amp model for about 15 bucks and see how good that one is….
Cheers.
I can second your comment on build quality and dry threads, it arrived that dry, that one o-ring was already damaged.
Funny, I didn’t know that the rubber boot is a GITD one, I switched it for a black one in a blink of an eye.
meh……my copy start flickering and behave strange, switching between modes without any reason.
Maybe the switch, maybe the bad soldering at the driver ?
Cnqualitygoods is going to release the DQG tiny 18650
Twisty, 2amp high with a tir optic