frosted optics or no??
and is there a page that lists some decent battery brand…
ok that seems good. those are high CRI? ok what is the difference of DOME d? more floody?
yeah that bumps up the price a bit
so maybe this config:
dark grey case
warm white backlit button
flat retaining ring
519a 5700k DOME
519a 2700k DOME
if this sustains high enough, might not do a x80
Is there frosted optic for M44? I don’t remember one…
It depends where you are, use only reputable battery stores in your country (as that’s usually the safest bet), I use usually molicel P28A/P26A
Yes
Yes, the domed one, have tint close to Div 0 deviation from BBL, and are more floody.
The dedome one, are modified led, with negative Dev, and warmer tint, and there’s usually artefact in the beam, by the TIR, as it’s not designed for it. dedome is worst for tint mixing, that’s why go to the domed ones.
It should do 1000 lumens sustained on 519A with reasonable temp, for arouind 2.5h.
On temp limit set to 65C it’s doing 1500 lumens, but nobody is seting it for 65C in normal use (usually people set it under 50C)
the seller lists it in the description as an extra option to ask for
i couldn’t find an example picture for frosted.
and i’m maybe gonna get a NiteCore D4 or something. i only have 2-slot right now. i had some purple cell in a drawer…i just read to not leave them around.
i saw some flashlight picture recently was a really floody wide beam
i don’t know much about this deviation from BBL, etc
i haven’t calibrated these flashlights i have yet
any idea how long the m44 w/ 519a can sustain 4000 lumens?
maybe consider an x80 once i decide on tint
wonder if anyone selling an old modded one with some other emitter or mods
still deciding case color and backlit button
i might do frosted lens though
For maximum runtime at a sustainable level, I’d recommend a high-mAh cell like the Samsung 35E. It’s 3500 mAh, which is currently about the maximum for 18650 cells. If you’re not using turbo brightness, more mAh = longer runtime.
To get an idea how floody or throwy a light is, divide the candelas by the lumens. The cd/lm value quantifies the beam shape, with higher numbers being more throwy. It goes from about 0.1 (light bulb) to 10,000 (laser), and most general-purpose torches are about 3 to 30 cd/lm. IIRC the M44 is probably about … 4 cd/lm maybe?
But for indoor lighting, I’d use something I can plug into a mains outlet instead of using batteries.
less then 2 min, it’s temp limited…
2 minutes?
i’m not sure that’s much better than the if25a i’ve got?
and @ToyKeeper yeah i’d prefer usb-c but i’m checking and even the x80 doesn’t have that?
it sustains its max very briefly
i was hoping the sp36 blf or the m44 could sustain like…4000 lumens for 10 minutes minimum…
i’m not exactly sure how to read the graphs or find more
which one between the sp36 and m44 then?
still maybe a x80? what do you think? there might be one for sale on classifieds.
or a different Acebeam, or there’s couple other lights
maybe i could get a diffuser for each of these (the if25a, m44, and whether the sp36 is too similar to m44 or what?)
thanks for all the help
i’m hoping to at least get the m44 i guess
then pick a tint for x80…(hopefully, or some other similar light)
$5.99 for the samsung 3500mah unprotected
plus shipping and tax
the x50
how’s that compare in this whole mix? it has usb-c
and a 5000k tint option, than the x80 seemed to be only 6500k or something
(edit: ohhh but built-in battery…)(and the 2.0 is high CRI but lower lumens…i didn’t check the candelas)
still just wanna compare the m44 or sp36
the m44 is $20 off and frosted…that’s kinda nice overall
does the sp36 hold any benefit?
if anyone is selling an x50 i’ll probably do that though too
Let’s assume 4000lm and a very generous 100lm/W†, so that’s 40W handheld heater.
A 40W anything needs to shed a lot of heat to stay cool. Heatsinks, fans, etc. Without assloads of fins and/or a fan to push air through, temperatures will rise higher and higher until that difference with ambient is enough to shed enough heat and stabilise.
Little cuts and gouges in an otherwise smooth Al cylinder ain’t what anyone would call a heatsink.
† And that’s just at the LEDs, and not counting the driver, warm’n’toasty cells, etc. And at those levels, we’re probably talking 80lm/W if not lower.
But not for a whole hour
even half hour, 15 mins
looks like there was another x50 2.0 version was 6500k and 45000 lumens
some were selling on the forum, not sure if it was that one, for about $240, $250
the one on Acebeam website now (x50 2.0) is 22000 lumens 4500k
i mean the extra lumens and CRI may be nice
if i skip the m44 i could go for something
just something marginally better than the 2 minutes on the if25a
i’m not clear how much difference between the m44 and sp36 though
m44 is 2 or 3 times the cost depending
Over 4000 lumens for around 3 minutes, you got yourself one more minute
if you want sustained 4000 lumens, you need fans. my X75 will do it, but it’s not high CRI
ok so a flashlight with fans
any other options?
the m44 gonna have some more lumens (again just going by that they use lumens on the description)
the sp36 has usb-c
whether a couple bells and whistles or the frosted lens is enough to justify m44
it’s on sale, but i could just wait and get a x75 or something
edit: wow the x75 cost more…quite a bit
The M44 should perform much better than a Sofirn IF25A. The M44 has a much more efficient driver, much better heat handling capabilities, and 2X the battery capacity. It generates less heat at the same brightness, and can handle quite a bit more heat in total, so its sustainable level should be significantly higher.
The IF25A and SP36 use the same type of “FET+1” driver. At output levels above ~200 lm, they are very inefficient, generating a lot of heat. The SP36 can sustain higher levels than IF25A because it is physically larger, but you’ll get more runtime and the same or higher sustainable brightness from a M44.
… but a lamp would probably be much more practical. Like, that Viltrox panel I mentioned is very nice, highly adjustable, and can be powered by a battery when desired. Or this Waveform light is reference quality and should work great in a closet. Or they have a shop light which sustains ~4200 lm indefinitely. There are some really good LED bulbs like Philips Ultra Definition, $27 for an 8-pack of 4x2700K and 4x5000K, dimmable and with great light quality and performance, which could be mixed in a light fixture for up to 6400 lumens. Or the local home hardware store probably has something suitable.
Flashlights just aren’t built for this type of use.
thanks so maybe a stone white m44, and…cool white backlit button…
and maybe the Viltrox and Waveform, yeah
but if i do want a flashlight, and for 15 minutes of indoor use also, maybe the x75
i’m not seeing x75 in classifieds list
but i could maybe check another forum too
ahh i missed an Amazon deal
but that’s 6500k tint
XHP70.2 is floodier than 70.3?
i can leave it go for now
yes, but X75 isn’t really an indoor flashlight
Yes
I have the White 70.3Hi version of X75, and also I have white M44 (but with 219b 4500K, and W1).
As for that X75, I used it only once indoor, to find staple.
I was looking for it couple minutes with SP10 pro, then give up, grabbed X75, run it on high, and found that staple in seconds. 
Convoy M3 C will run a very long time at lumen levels about 1400 or so, I can’t remember the exact #. Search the review here for run times and lumens. Can be had in high CRI. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801548469795.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapthttps://1lumen.com/review/convoy-m3-c/
should i switch one of the options to that W1 also?
not sure the difference
point of the x75…just is more than enough for anything
but the convoy mc-3… here’s the charts graphs
so it can sustain a few minutes, yes
i might have to compare that to the m44
and here’s wolfgirl42’s charts of the m44
there’s some more charts but in Lux and of the W1 emitter
so the convoy m3-c can sustain 1600 lumens or so for over an hour
the m44 sustains a while also and can hold at 20%…whatever that is
really just get an x75 (eventually) or if there’s any other with a fan
like i’m not sure if the mc-3 has a benefit either now (well it is less expensive), still leaning toward the m44 for today
so the w1 seems to drop off quicker…not sure what else. i mean it’s a bit cooler tint too.
eh i might even consider a 3500k and the 5700. i can’t get much yet. thanks for the help.
i could also find a few more shops sell the x75 or see what acebeam official does next month or next year.
i can’t find a 5000k on amazon now…i think the sale one wasn’t
someone elsewhere mentioned a couple other holidays or 11/11 might be sales
LOL! 
