Is there a flashlight that meets these 3 criteria
adjustable tint
High CRI
Sustainable at a thousand lumens or something
The SP36 BLF is inexpensive enough I could just get a couple with different tints
I still considered an x80-gt or something
But am not sure which tint yet
I have an lt1 and I like it a lot more than the lt1s
Getting a wurkkos sc11
Noctigon M44 should meet your requirements.
How many lumens is that? I’m trying to read a bit about it.
which emitters would you recommend
And maybe consider frosted… (is it much difference?)
It doesn’t have usb-c charging does it? I have a nitecore charger, is 2 slot or something.
Oh and I see a video it can go throw and flood mode? Or that’s the 2 different LED to choose.
Get it from which https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/noctigon-m44-meteor-4-quad-high-power-led-flashlight.html
This first one seems to have more LED options?
Noctigon M44 Meteor 4 x Quad 16 LED High Power Led Flashlight Tint Ram – JLHawaii808
What brand of battery… The description recommends some. I have some sofirn lights that come with battery.
And how’s that price $88.60 on the first link?
Might go any lower next month?
Topic: “Sustainable medium”
My first thought: Society as a whole could really stand to focus more on a sustainable medium instead of going to extremes.
My second thought: Wait, this is BLF. It’s probably about lumens. 
Anyway, unless you’re ceiling-bouncing the light or using a diffuser cone, lumens might not be the right metric to focus on. Candelas are what people actually see. A really floody 1000 lumen light will typically look less bright than a throwy 100 lumen light. So it’s important to take the beam shape into consideration, not just the raw power. And the ideal beam shape depends on what you’re using it for.
So what are you using it for?
You could see my previous thread or at least the title.
to bounce it off the ceiling
I might actually consider a x80-gt2 or something if I can decide on a tint
Or sp36
But this is a good price on the m44? I might wait until November.
If I did use it outdoors though, floody might be nice. The lt1 isn’t great for walking looking ahead. The other couple flashlights I’ve had I haven’t tested out much besides indoors or hanging as a closet/bathroom light.
The ones I’ve got might be 5000k. I also got some Philips smartbulbs for ceiling and lamp.
If it’s meant for indoor use ceiling-bounced, the M44 would probably be a pretty good option.
Personally though, I prefer a Viltrox VL-300T attached to a slightly modified Ikea Tertial arm. It gives fantastic light quality with adjustable CCT and brightness.
I was a bit confused, because in my deranged mind “high” is the max sustainable brightness held in hand with nearly full cell at room temperature, whereas “turbo” is some stoopit-high brightness that lasts for anywhere from 1min to 3sec (GTnano) before stepping down drastically.
“Sustainable medium” seemed redundant, but yah, for BLF…
Still was thinking “medium” might be more like 500lm.
Anyhoo, I prefer floody as infinitely more useful for Real Life™ usage. If I need a thrower, I’ll grab a thrower. I rarely need to search for stuff in my closet with a laser-pointer.
yeah i could go for something floody
now depending what medium is, because for one of the ones i have now, it’s turbo on those… oh is the if25a 3800 lumens??
well i guess “medium” on a x80-gt
how much lumens is the m44 and how long can it do max, high, medium?
really, the x80 might be something to consider
if we set aside the usb-c requirement, and possibly the high CRI, is there any other to consider?
the tint would be something i’d prefer unless a flashlight is inexpensive enough to try 2
the if25a does a decent job even pointed downwards on a light-colored floor and walls
i forgot it was 3800 lumens max…
the seller recommends " 519A 4000K domed for both channels "
what does that benefit?
do you have any idea if this shop does black friday, or this current sale
i might even wait till next year. i might not want to get it this month.
maybe the sst20 4000k high cri
and the sst20 6500k (not high cri…doesn’t say so)
Just go for the M44 with
Channel 1: 519A 5700K with dome
Channel 2: 519A 2700K with dome
As that’s the only good option for high CRI full tint ramp (and remember domed)
as for the sale, there’s actually usually no sale for them. the 88$ for base M44 is good price now (do remember you need some good 3 x 18650 flat li-ions for it, and do be careful not to put on be reversed in)
frosted optics or no??
and is there a page that lists some decent battery brand…
ok that seems good. those are high CRI? ok what is the difference of DOME d? more floody?
yeah that bumps up the price a bit
so maybe this config:
dark grey case
warm white backlit button
flat retaining ring
519a 5700k DOME
519a 2700k DOME
if this sustains high enough, might not do a x80
Is there frosted optic for M44? I don’t remember one…
It depends where you are, use only reputable battery stores in your country (as that’s usually the safest bet), I use usually molicel P28A/P26A
Yes
Yes, the domed one, have tint close to Div 0 deviation from BBL, and are more floody.
The dedome one, are modified led, with negative Dev, and warmer tint, and there’s usually artefact in the beam, by the TIR, as it’s not designed for it. dedome is worst for tint mixing, that’s why go to the domed ones.
It should do 1000 lumens sustained on 519A with reasonable temp, for arouind 2.5h.
On temp limit set to 65C it’s doing 1500 lumens, but nobody is seting it for 65C in normal use (usually people set it under 50C)
the seller lists it in the description as an extra option to ask for
i couldn’t find an example picture for frosted.
and i’m maybe gonna get a NiteCore D4 or something. i only have 2-slot right now. i had some purple cell in a drawer…i just read to not leave them around.
i saw some flashlight picture recently was a really floody wide beam
i don’t know much about this deviation from BBL, etc
i haven’t calibrated these flashlights i have yet
any idea how long the m44 w/ 519a can sustain 4000 lumens?
maybe consider an x80 once i decide on tint
wonder if anyone selling an old modded one with some other emitter or mods
still deciding case color and backlit button
i might do frosted lens though
For maximum runtime at a sustainable level, I’d recommend a high-mAh cell like the Samsung 35E. It’s 3500 mAh, which is currently about the maximum for 18650 cells. If you’re not using turbo brightness, more mAh = longer runtime.
To get an idea how floody or throwy a light is, divide the candelas by the lumens. The cd/lm value quantifies the beam shape, with higher numbers being more throwy. It goes from about 0.1 (light bulb) to 10,000 (laser), and most general-purpose torches are about 3 to 30 cd/lm. IIRC the M44 is probably about … 4 cd/lm maybe?
But for indoor lighting, I’d use something I can plug into a mains outlet instead of using batteries.
less then 2 min, it’s temp limited…
2 minutes?
i’m not sure that’s much better than the if25a i’ve got?
and @ToyKeeper yeah i’d prefer usb-c but i’m checking and even the x80 doesn’t have that?
it sustains its max very briefly
i was hoping the sp36 blf or the m44 could sustain like…4000 lumens for 10 minutes minimum…
i’m not exactly sure how to read the graphs or find more
which one between the sp36 and m44 then?
still maybe a x80? what do you think? there might be one for sale on classifieds.
or a different Acebeam, or there’s couple other lights
maybe i could get a diffuser for each of these (the if25a, m44, and whether the sp36 is too similar to m44 or what?)
thanks for all the help
i’m hoping to at least get the m44 i guess
then pick a tint for x80…(hopefully, or some other similar light)
$5.99 for the samsung 3500mah unprotected
plus shipping and tax
the x50
how’s that compare in this whole mix? it has usb-c
and a 5000k tint option, than the x80 seemed to be only 6500k or something
(edit: ohhh but built-in battery…)(and the 2.0 is high CRI but lower lumens…i didn’t check the candelas)
still just wanna compare the m44 or sp36
the m44 is $20 off and frosted…that’s kinda nice overall
does the sp36 hold any benefit?
if anyone is selling an x50 i’ll probably do that though too
Let’s assume 4000lm and a very generous 100lm/W†, so that’s 40W handheld heater.
A 40W anything needs to shed a lot of heat to stay cool. Heatsinks, fans, etc. Without assloads of fins and/or a fan to push air through, temperatures will rise higher and higher until that difference with ambient is enough to shed enough heat and stabilise.
Little cuts and gouges in an otherwise smooth Al cylinder ain’t what anyone would call a heatsink.
† And that’s just at the LEDs, and not counting the driver, warm’n’toasty cells, etc. And at those levels, we’re probably talking 80lm/W if not lower.
But not for a whole hour
even half hour, 15 mins
looks like there was another x50 2.0 version was 6500k and 45000 lumens
some were selling on the forum, not sure if it was that one, for about $240, $250
the one on Acebeam website now (x50 2.0) is 22000 lumens 4500k
i mean the extra lumens and CRI may be nice
if i skip the m44 i could go for something
just something marginally better than the 2 minutes on the if25a
i’m not clear how much difference between the m44 and sp36 though
m44 is 2 or 3 times the cost depending
Over 4000 lumens for around 3 minutes, you got yourself one more minute
if you want sustained 4000 lumens, you need fans. my X75 will do it, but it’s not high CRI
