Been seeing high praise (and price!) for the NOV-Mu with the 21 emitter array and now further praise for the 9 x FFL emitters.
What makes the FFL better than our golden child, the Nichia? Apart from the cool 3x3 square compared with the 21 emitter pattern
Iām interested in the 4000K Rosy, the 3700K, and the 1800K. Are there any comparison beam shots anywhere? Is the 1800K extremely candle yellow/orange and mainly suitable for indoor lighting, Iāve never considered such a low candela before. The lowest Iāve gone is a 4000K Wurkkos HD10, which is a lovely indoor light, but Iād definitely be ordering the lantern kit with the NOV-Mu and using it as a semi permanent side light.
They are not ābetterā than any of the beautiful Nichia LEDs like 219b, 519a DD, B35AM. The word I like to describe the comparison is ādifferent, not better, nor worse.ā Some people would still prefer more neutral tint. The rosiness is not for everyone, one just has to try and see if itās for him.
And itās not just the LED, the host itself (at least the ones I have) is of premium quality and a pleasure to hold and use. Button is top notch with feel and travel. Captive clip is fantastic. Magnet USB cover is fantastic. The attention to details, at least for this latest generation, is excellent.
All of their rosy LEDs have ridiculous Duv measurements (with my amateur equipment), as in all in the -0.0090 to -0.0100 range. IRL use for my evening walks, the color rendition is pleasantly warm and rosy, often makes my beloved 219b 4500k harsh and flat in comparison. I would suggest to start with 4000k Rosy. At lower CCT IMHO CCT color dominates such that I am not sure that rosiness comes through clearly.
Vs the ābelovedā 219b 4500k, and 519a 4500k not DD. Interestingly the Convoy S21F with tint mixed 519a 5700k+2700k has nearly identical color rendition. Just much lower output and throw.
Thatās helpful, thank you. I have a domed 519A 4500K in an Emisar D3AA with the throwy Carclo on it. Though itās actually perfect for outdoor use, I feel I could have gone 4000K on the Hanklight and been happy with the increased warmth and wasnāt too interested in the dedomed 4500K. Iād read a few post here saying the dedomed was too pink.
Looking at your pics, Iām thinking I want something less rosy pink than the āRosyā 4000K, something more Incandescent/candleflame yellow.
On the build, yes, the quality of the build and clean look of the wine red version really have me shopping with my eyes. The D3AA I chose was the grey with copper bits, the thing looks lovely and is a great compromise tint. But at the price point for a basic model without anything Ć la carte itās not so crucial to hit your ideal tint first time.
The previous version of the light uses E21A, which is essentially obsolete now; the FFL emitters offer the same color quality but with much more power. The 519A should not be used in mules because the dome introduces extreme tint shift.
Unfortunately, pretty much any mule you come across will have a pink hotspot and yellow boundaryāitās just an unfortunate reality of how most LEDs work, and mules donāt have a secondary optic to correct for this. But domeless emitters will certainly lessen this tint shift compared to domed emitters.
Unless you are looking for extreme flood and willing to sacrifice tint consistency, a triple/quad TIR is a better solution than mule 95% of the time: sufficiently floody, a lot more throwy, and better tint consistency. Thing about mules is that over half of the output gets sent to a place that not even your peripheral vision could pick up.
Youāre welcome. If 519a seems perfect for you, and youāre looking for yellow tint, and if I am reading you right, then I am not sure these FFL LEDs are what youāre looking for, at least not the well known rosy ones I have. There are of course other FFL LEDs with different CCTs/tints that MIGHT work for you, but I have no experience with them.
FFL rosy LEDs are warm and make red color pops like nothing else Iāve ever seen, but they are anything but yellow. IMvHO safer to try for 519a with lower CCT as you wrote. Or 519a 5700k dedomed (my Hank D4K 5700k DD becomes ~4100k and looks beautiful) for the next step towards more rosy. Hope this helps.
I love mule lights, the Emissar D3AA works well without the Carclo in it, in this case Iām looking specifically at the NOV-Mu. I have a PL-47 with the 4x Nichia 219B SW45K 4500K R9080 CRI95 and I donāt see a pinkish hotspot.
The NOV-Mu is intended to be a more powerful performer, with the same or increased warmth. Iām a little confused by the FFL emitter as only one is listed as Rosy. Are they all quite pink. Iāve read recent posts here in a thread about creating realistic indoor candlelight where the FFL 1800K is recommended. Candle might be too warm and the output is quite low by comparison, I must search out a pic of the FFL 3700K
What I donāt want, is pink night pics. I donāt do much nighttime photography but the little PL-47 is great for even lighting. This stone, with the snow, isnāt one Iād want too yellow, but I certainly wouldnāt want a pink rock.
Found this. I never thought to look on the LED section of the FFL website. 3700K looks good, 5000K looks too white for candle lantern usage. 1800K looks like itās almost specifically indoor ambient lighting.
Good find. I just posted the picture below on the Walk Light thread.
I think the picture is excellent and very accurate (I believe author is a photographer). For example that B35M color is exactly like my B35AM: creamy yellow and one of my most favorite tints. WB was held at fixed value IIRC.
The 219B is currently the only domed emitter that does not exhibit a ton of tint shift. For this light, the entire beam is almost uniformly pink, which your eyes can adjust to and perceive as not pink. (Though a camera might tell a different story.) Do NOT get 519A domed in a mule; the tint shift is very noticeable and distracting.
Apparently there are pink and neutral batches of the 3700K, and in the beamshots you posted below it appears to be the neutral batch, and I think this emitter would be good for your purposes. Not too much tint shift, and not too pink. Fortunately, you can tell from the beamshots which ones are unacceptably pink.
Iāve only come to Firefly recently so not an expert, but Firefly seem to make LEDs with similar CCT in different batches with different tints. And once a batch is gone, itās gone. Insofar as the 351A at ~3700k-4000k CCT AFAIK there have been 3 batches: 1st batch is rosy, second batch is the yellow neutral one you see in picture above (I donāt believe this is available anymore), and third batch is my very rosy 4000k thatās next to it.
It is done, my thanks for your input on this. Much as I wanted a candle colour, I think the 1800K would limit my secondary use which is night walking the dog. Hoping the 3700K is going to give me the best light for both applications.
Nice, on sale too. Hope it turns out the way you want. If you like pls post your impression when you get it.
I hear A LOT of praise for that Firefly red finish. Unfortunately I have bought all the Fireflies that I wantā¦ At least at this point. AND I have never had a mule.
