Does the Tank run brighter on a 4.2 volt 10440 vs. a 1.2 volt Eneloop?
Anyone know the actual lumens on low-med-high with a 10440?
Read this and learn all from the master himself
That’s a nice little light 
The estimates are available!
On the Fenix lumens scale the E09 (=ES12) is ~92 Fenix lumens on Eneloop and ~155 Fenix lumens on 10440 according to the ES12 review. The reviewer uses a newly built (over 200+ man-hours :O ) DIY integrating sphere and calibrated it after Fenix flashlights.
Whenever I can get away with it, I use my ZL H51 as a necklace instead of using the house lights. And when I can’t, I often use one of my handheld EDC lights instead. So much nicer than messing with light switches, especially when carrying things or when I only want a small amount of light!
There’s also something inherently enjoyable about it, wandering around in the dark, putting light only where I want it. It’s romantic, I guess, in the same way that a haunted house is more fun at night (and then, only if nobody pulls out their Skyray King, which totally ruins the effect).
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Read this and learn all from the master himself
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Yikes! Kreisler, I just followed the link (post #42) and saw your in-depth review of the E09 
If I had known earlier about it I wouldn’t have bothered with my so-called “review.” Yours makes mine look positively
amateur-ish (I’m not technically inclined). I do agree with one thing though…
I tend to judge a lights worth by its price vs. performance ratio. I know there are better tiny lights out there but at the price
of the E09 it’s gotta be a best-buy
That is good news.
My eyes were NOT deceiving me! Thanks for testing those all important lumens.
My additional purchase of my very first 10440’s batteries (for my new Tank007 E09) ends up being a very good decision.
Guys this is to confirm, from my part, the measured ~150 Fenix lumens on 10440's:A simple wall double bounce tells my eyes that indeed my 4Sevens PenLight mocha (rated 180 47's lumens, which coincides pretty much with 180 Fenix lumens) is noticeably brighter than the E09/ES12 on 10440's. That's a plus for the PenLight (1.8A current draw!) but also a plus for the E09 since its low LiIon current draw is a VERY SAFE way to run 10440's.
Last night i gifted yet another E09 to another neighbor. It was the 9th copy which i gifted away!!, leaving me with 3 copies for myself: 1x black (303.. serial number'ed, shelf copy), 1x black (112.. serial number'ed as my beater with LD01 pocket clip and unusually large very round artifacts-free hotspot, beautiful!), and 1x gungray (in transit from DD, possibly shelf copy instead of gift hehe). Yep, that's a total of 12 E09's which i got my filthy hands on, plus the E10, E11 and "E12" (=stainless steel version of E09, designated ES12), and they all share the identical driver and XP-E R3 led.
Oh, it's early morning. i am filthy. Time to take a shower, gotta run, bye!! :bigsmile:
I agree!! This is how I feel sometimes walking around my house with my Preon:
My little Tank 007 came a few days ago.
Really impressed with it myself, but honestly don’t have a clue about flashlights.
A few shots beside my EDC Fenix L1D.
This thread actually piqued my interest in the Tank 007 E09. I have to admit that I’m typically a large light kind of guy. And I never had much interest in 1xAAA lights. But with everything that has been said here, I got interested. Not to mention that the price EASILY put this light into the ‘what the heck’ category.
First things first. As a few others have said, this is NO 120 lumen light. It’s maybe comparable to the basic LED Minimag (ie the one you can get ‘free’ with the 3D LED Mag). That would put output at around 70-ish lumens. Still, not too bad for such an inexpensive 1xAAA.
Perhaps I’m saying this because I’m used to large lights that have plenty of metal through which to dissipate heat. But this thing gets quite hot with one NiMH battery. I don’t know if this is ultimately detrimental to the light if you run it on high and keep feeding it batteries. But it’s something to think about. I actually thought about getting a LiFePO4 10440 to run it on. But I can only imagine how hot THAT would make it.
I’ve not tested runtime on other modes. But I get about 25 minutes on high with a Duraloop and 30 minutes with a 1000mAH Duracell (HSD). Still, not too bad, all things considered. And AAA batteries are fairly light and easy to carry. So if you carry around four, you get about two hours of light on high.
Build quality is, as others have said, pretty good. Not too much to complain about here. Threads are smooth. There are no burs (unlike some cheap lights I have bought). And it’s nice to have an actual glass lens rather than a plastic one that will scratch. The extra o-rings are nice, too.
One more thing. I bought mine from Fast Tech, and got in in 8 days to California. This is certainly not bad when ordering from Hong Kong. I HIGHLY recommend you pay the extra 20 cents for USPS First Class Mail. Given the ETA they give for free shipping vs First Class, it’s DEFINITELY worth this small increase in price.
I’ve wondered about this. But for the same amount of light, wouldn’t using a flashlight be less energy efficient since you would lose some electricity charging up the batteries and some more due to the battery just discharging over time? On the plus side, a flashlight is much more directed light so you wouldn’t need to light up a whole room.
One other thing. According to the instructions, this light MUST be kept away from sunshine (?), water, chemicals, and (last but not least) ‘rot muddy gas’.
(emphasis added)
Depends. I’m not sure what the runtimes on the Tank007 E09 are like, but I’m pretty familiar with my ZL SC52. It gets 2.7lm for ~96 hours per battery, and has other modes when necessary. In practice that’s enough runtime to last me for a whole month of not-using-overhead-lights for a few hours per day (let’s say about 3 hours per day). (I’ve actually done this with my ZL H51w, which is less efficient than the SC52, and one cell lasts about a month)
But how much electricity does it take to charge one 2000mAh Eneloop? As far as I can tell, my La Crosse BC-700 charger spends about 2500mAh at 1.6V, or about 4 watt-hours, to charge one cell. I used its built-in counter though, rather than a kill-a-watt, so I’m not sure if actual usage might be a bit higher.
Compare that to using a light bulb… The Phillips L-prize winner bulb gets 94lm/W or about 910lm from 9.7W, and is the most efficient bulb on the market. At 3 hours per day for 30 days, that’s 9.7W*3h*30d == 873 watt-hours, or about 218 times more electricity than the flashlight approach. But maybe you don’t need 910 lumens. I have a 150lm candela bulb which uses only 2W, and it’s plenty most of the time. That brings the monthly usage down to 180 watt-hours, or 45 times more than the flashlight approach. Most rooms have more than one bulb though, and rarely use as little as 9W per bulb. So, in a more typical scenario, it’s probably more like 2-4 bulbs at 12-20W each, so overhead lighting (with CFLs ) can be more like a thousand times more energy than the flashlight.
So, at a rough estimate, using a flashlight can be hundreds of times more energy-efficient than using overhead light bulbs. The main reason is because light bulbs typically emit hundreds of times more light and most of that light is unnecessary when you could instead focus a smaller amount exactly where you need it.
If that’s how you use it, you might like the Olight i3S a bit better. Take a look at its specs:
You could get at least twice the runtime, on high (80lm/1h), or reduce it to medium for more like 16X to 20X the runtime you’ve been getting (20lm/8-10h).
Personally though, I find 20lm is too bright most of the time… I mostly use 0.05lm to 3lm on my lights, which gives me runtimes measured not in hours but in days or weeks or even months per cell. That’s the sort of use case where these little lights really shine.
Then again, according to specs, the Tank 007 e09 is supposed to run for an hour at 120 lumens. In the real world, is the Olight i3s really doing any better?
Real world, yes it is. The olight is around 50 minutes at 70 genuine lumens = 3500. The E09 is 30 minutes at around 90 = 2700 at max.
Crucially though, the I3S is current controlled instead of using PWM. This means much higher efficiency at lower modes, with 15 lumens OTF for 8 hours (480 minutes) = 7200.
Wow, thanks for doing the math and usage scenarios!
the water, sunshine or chemicals will certainly destroy the performance of the light, and we mainly use the flashlight at night, so it doesn’t matter.
Of course, that still doesn’t explain that rot muddy gas.