I have some gaggione lenses where it’s cut more cleanly, but ultimately it’s still visible.
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What are Nichia e17a and e21a LEDs used in besides a few niche flashlight models? Lightbulbs? Commercial lighting? Can I buy some product they’re used in and harvest the LEDs?
Nichia give intended applications at the bottom of the product page:
https://led-ld.nichia.co.jp/en/product/lighting_dmc.html
German supplier LedRise sell reels but sometimes have individual LEDs in stock, shipping may be prohibitive but I’ve found them to be very helpful so if you’re just buying LEDs it’s worth asking if they have a cheaper shipping option to offer.
This is the listing, generally anything that ‘Ships in 1-6 weeks’ is reel only, anything that is ‘Stock Germany’ is available individually:
https://www.ledrise.eu/leduri-individuale/nichia-leds/nichia-e17-and-e21-flip-chip-leds.html
Just had a quick look myself, there are some colour E17A in stock but the only High CRI ones i can see in stock are E17A 5700K 9050 and E17A 2700K 9050.
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Will a Convoy lighted switch work in a Texas Ace driver controlled flashlight?
How do you people open this stuff? This is an S2+. As far as I can see I have to turn the retaining ring clockwise to unscrew. the only tool I have that can enter those tiny holes is a pair of tweezers, which aren’t happy about this job but unscrewed every pill I tried them on so far. In this case however, no frigging chance. It’s so tight I can barely manage to hold the outer part while trying to unscrew…
Thin nose or circlip pliers. I have these https://www.knipex.com/products/gripping-pliers/gripping-pliers/gripping-pliers/3741125 , 1mm tip.
If you don’t have suitable pliers you can try with a fork.
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I have pliers like that, but the tips are too big - the driver has tiny drills.
I just found a solution as ugly as it is simple: I took the cordless drill and a 2mm drill bit, and made the holes large enough for my pliers ro fit. Unscrewed perfectly after 
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Necessity is the mother… of invention, of course.
If it looks stupid but it works it’s not stupid. Or maybe a little 
The ring still has a lot of material underneath my drills, kept them shallow on purpose not to weaken it too much!
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I just found this in my scrap box. Reflector seems to be ~50mm diameter (forgot to measure while it was open) and is super bad quality (chrome-plated plastic). The internals feel a bit flimsy (shelf rests on a ~1mm wide edge, how is heat transfer supposed to work there??).
Do you think this might be worth trying to turn into something useful (big buck driver, 3S LiPo battery since I already own those in backpack, 4 5050 or 3535 LEDs and a big quad optic), or would you just trash it? Original LEDs/drivers were shot.
Get a nice LED in a temp you want, a diffuser (scuff up some clear plastic, even), and make it an outdoor accent-light or area-light.
Doesn’t have to be pushed too hard, just a coupla hunnit lemons.
I got a solar-light that wouldn’t charge whether from the solar panel or via usb. Still got the nifty 3-wire LED panel with WW and CW chips. It’s got a diffuser already, so was going to do exactly that, use a shallow “cup” to act as housing and heatsink, have a simple stoopit resistor to limit current, and power it off a usb adapter.
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Can a failing/ defective switch cause the light to be stuck in one mode and you can’t turn it off?
Ramping and clicking the switch does nothing. Have to unscrew tail cap. Then when I tighten the tail cap it comes on in that same mode. Only way to get that mode changed is to unscrew the body from the head, then the light will go off.
Double click goes to Turbo sometimes and very low output other times. Double click will only work sometimes for the right mode or the wrong mode. Sometimes it does nothing. Much more. That’s the short version. It’s a K1 flashlight with Anduril 2
I am sure a bad or faulty switch can cause issues.
This glitch has nothing to do with the switch…
The only way to get to Turbo, (when it works), is to double click once you reach the high ramp. All other outputs below that,a double click returns to moonlight.
Most people like Anduril or Narsil… I prefer a simple UI with three modes that’s it.
All the stuff started 3 days ago… No Doubt a firmware problem.
When configuring the ceiling level (for example) in Anduril, I believe that you can use 1H in place of 10 clicks. How long do you hold the switch for it to count as 1H, and how do you know when you’ve held it long enough?
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I found that by sounding out a simple rhythm of say, 1…2…3…4…5…so on, whereby each count represents a full second works well. Nodding your head, tapping a foot, and such while you count can help you stay in rhythm!
For example, if you want to reach a level of let’s say 120 of the maximum of 150 without having to count and remember each of the 120 clicks, you begin the “full second” count rhythm of 1…2…3…, pressing and releasing the switch button for each second until you reach 12.
You’ll know you’ve done it correctly by checking to see if the output level is where you’d expect it should be. Or check the output with a lumen meter.
Hopefully that works as well for you as it has for me!
EDIT:
I need to clarify that my example above was for setting the Tactical Modes, which typically require a lot button presses, or press & holds of up to 150+ 1,2,3 for the strobes. The same applies when using the Ramp Menu to configure a large number of steps desired for the Stepped Ramp.
For a Ceiling level of 120 in the regular ramp setting, you count backwards from 150. So when using the method above of, you would only need to do it 3 times, or 30 individual button presses. I hope that helps!
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“One chimpanzee, two chimpanzee, three chimpanzee, …”
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Thank you both, that makes sense.
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