TTT
The switch will absolutely not fit into the Malkoff tailcap. In the Malkoff the McClicky switch screws in from the bottom the tailcap with the narrower E-series threads and there is also a solid collar between the two types of threads. It is a completely different design to any other C-series compatible tailcap and will only accept a switch the exact same size as a McClicky.
Wow. OK. Thank you for the clarification.
how are these going tofty? with whats going on for me in real life, a distraction would be really appreciated at the moment so dont worry about contacting me.
Ah, so there's hope for me? This isn't real life, just a dream, I'll wake up and NOT have dozens of flashlights and my wife WON'T be mad at me! Whew! I thought I was a goner. Glad this is just a dream. Just a dream. Only a dream. Not in trouble, only a dream.
Makes me wish I had a solarforce.
Solarforceflashlight-sales.com has a bunch of em!
No worries, your right about the Malkoff tailcap being longer and this is because it fills the gap usually found between the body and tail of Surefire 6Ps and other C/P/M/Z series lights which were designed to have twisty tailcaps. When i get a chance i'll start looking at making a McClicky sized switch as this is the most universal of switch sizes.
If we're lucky i should be ready to take payments and potentially post by Friday. There is some complexity as to the height of the contact post so i'll be sending out an email about this sometime tomorrow.
I like that as an argument; "You can't have a go at me, coz you're not real and this is all a dream, so there!" It might work.
That website certainly is the cheapest source of Solarforce lights and parts that i've ever found, and to be fair my switch only needs the Solarforce tailcap and will fit any other C-series tail thread compatible torch.
cool. looks like the kids Christmas presents will have to wait…. :bigsmile:
But my 6 year old flashes me in the eyes all the time with his, maybe that's not such a great idea after all...
my two flash themselves……not good when upto 1000 lumens is on tap….
Yeah, well, not like we don't that to ourselves when working on em. BAM! AW man, now I have to wait 20 minutes to be able to see again! Lucky it's only 1000 lumens sometimes, I've got several now over 2000. ;)
Just popping my head in to say this is still looking good. $25 is also a fair price to me, especially for something that does not exist on the market yet.
Yep, good work around the board. Gonna get some new levels of flashaholism going on around here! 
Right time for the last important bit; the length of the central post to ensure proper contact with the battery.
This will require some testing by those chosen for the first beta run of the switches (you know who you are):
Using the host, drop-in and battery that the switch will be used on and with the tailcap off, take something non-metallic and disposable like a chopstick and use it to depress the battery as far it will go against the drop-in spring. Once depressed use a pen, pencil or a knife to mark the stick at the level of the top of the bore. Then do the same with the stick just resting on the battery. Measure these two marks from the end of the stick.
(the drawing shows the battery bottom of a primary CR123, most Lithium-ion batteries have a negative contact which is not recessed, just measure of the negative plate, ignoring the relative position of the plastic wrapping)
If the two lengths are above and below 9mm then my standard post length of 7mm will suffice. If not then using your measurements i can calculate what will be appropriate.
If the switch is destined for a yet unmade or unfinished custom host then i can supply an over-length piece of threaded rod (M8) that can be cut to the required length.
Please let me know which option would best suit.
Cheers
ok, pm sent, we shall see how easy this is to tailor to other budget lights. I have a c8 in need of a switch, good test bed. an hd2010 inbound, and that huge multi xm-l thing that would definitely benefit from one of those. Should give an idea how tailorable they are elsewhere.
We sill have to see. I had assumed that the spring in the head would take up the difference. Of course the frequency with which I am wrong is sometimes disturbing. My next step was going to be a revision of the spring on my driver as it should be the next weak link or choke point. I was looking at adding the 0.9mm diameter spring at Mountain Electronics. It is 11mm long, I don’t know if it will tolerate the amps Tofty’s switch is going to take.
PP sent
Task done with crayon + box cutter + ruler. Dunno if I did this right.
Copper Cryos bezel (Original design)
Copper FiveMega 6P body (Original)
Vinhnguyen54 P60 5A drop-in (10mm charred spring)
AW 18650 3100mAh (with 3 bumps on the negative end)
12mm - 5.5mm = 6.5mm
L2T bezel
L2M body
Ahorton aspherical lens + spacer
Vinhnguyen54 P60 3A drop-in (8mm charred spring)
AW IMR 18350
13.5mm - 7mm = 6.5mm
Atm, the switch is going to reside in my L2M (all SolarForce parts). It might go into the Convoy C8 if there’s room (the host hasn’t arrived, so I don’t know). It’ll be outfitted with a red PT-54 direct driven with a 2000mAh Samsung, hopefully above 10A. I’m also trying to order 10mm copper springs from Saabluster for pills, but it seems he’s away atm.
Didn’t I see beryllium springs somewhere? Those would do well I’m thinking. The Convoy C8 I got came with a copper looking spring. The DIY kit came with everything but a driver and a star/emitter. Was kind of surprised to see that quality level of spring included for a driver that’s left for me to supply. Really like that, nice attention to detail!
I used it in my SupFire F9 if I’m not mistaken. Need some more of those!