What do you think of this? I don’t really care if it is one mode. I just want some power without bringing out the HID. Otherwise I will have to ask if Erik can do the transistor mod.
I think the only way to find out would be to test it. It is predictable that mine throttles back to early because it throttles back at 55 degrees at the driver.
Only if you can access the driver, which is the real problem for me; I can’t get the plastic cap off the battery contacts!
Anyways, I think you meant the resistor, not the transistor because you should either short or put a very low ohm resistor across the sense resistor. The sense resistor’s value is inversely proportional to the output current, so try lowering the resistance.
Good luck Slewflash and scaru and others who are modding this light!
I think removing the plastic cap is going to be the hardest part of the mod. It sounded like even E1320 had trouble.
Thank you ryansoh3, but I’m actually trying to get E1230 to mod it into a powerhouse.
I think if you have access to a dremel or small sharp knife you could cut it off, then glue it back on when you’re finished.
This is a good driver, I used it in my DIY FM3X Elephant Mod:
I tried two, as the 1st one burned out. mine did exactly 9A measured at the led.
None of the other sst-90 multi-mode drivers I tried can go up to 9A.
The X6 driver I tested (Dx sells it) does 6.5A.
I think this driver might be from Flydragon, a chinese flashlight maker known for their huge SST90 & CSM-360 big head flashlight & dragon head aspheric.
They sell their driver on their site & it looks just like this one.
Either way, this is a great driver, but needs to be potted & heat sinked well. It’s not very efficient & heat up quickly at 9A.
So the single mode driver is good? Any comments on the step down speed of it?
Thanks guys for your replies.
Meanwhile I’ll wrestle with the darn plastic cap and see what I can do.
Perhaps E1320 can help me out. 
Cheers! 
I was wondering… is there anything that doesn’t conduct electricity but conducts heat well? Because that way scaru can just fill up all the gaps (gaps in the driver too) with that stuff (if it exists) to make a super heat pathway to the fins. Just a thought…
To prevent thermo kick-down early, it need to be potted to a heatsink.
The bottom borad doesn’t heat-up much, the top board heat up quickly & need to be heatsinked.
The first time, I potted the top surface of the top board, because the components stick out so much, it kick-down very soon & would not get back to Med & Hi at all after a few days.
The 2nd time, I potted the bottom surface of the top plate.
I did this by flip the top driver & expose the bottom of it up on top, it can be heat sinked well as the components are low. & no problems so far.
I potted it to a alu heat sink surface using Fiji thermo glue from DX. It does not conduct electricity.
To pot well, the board & heat sink needs to be close & fill the gap with thermo glue
Fill the gap between the top & bottom boards is not going to do much, as most components are too far from the flashlight alu. wall to have good heat transfer no mater how good thermo paste you use.
The brass button that touches the battery unscrews so grab it with pliers and unscrew it. Next jam an appropriately sized flat head screwdriver in the hole were the button screws in and pry up on the white plate going around in a circular motion until the white plastic plate pops off, go easy so you don’t crack it. Once the white plate is off there is an outer ring that holds the metal dummy plate in. Drill 3 holes at 12 4 and 8 o’clock in the dummy plate near the outer ring. Use a dent puller or sheet metal screws and some vice grips and pull up on the dummy plate until the outer ring comes loose and the dummy plate will come out and you can now reach the internals to replace the driver. As long as you didn’t damage the outer ring the dummy plate or the plastic plate you can reassemble it with no signs of tampering.
Be warned that white plate is stuck! I just tryed the above and was able to get the brass button unscrewed but was not able to lift the white plate out.
Sweet! Thank you, appreciate it. I hope I don’t destroy anything but I’ll document the process and post the results!
Cheers!
Ok, I just got the plastic spacer off. I snapped one screw driver in half trying to get it out. I ended up drilling an extra hole in it so the spring wasn't in the way. So if I broke a screw driver doing the easy part I'm worried about the metal plate.
Ok, I got the whole thing apart. :D Now I just need some Fujik. I will probably go get some later today. How long does Fujik take to dry?
Hello Everyone, I'm new here and am an owner of 2 of these X6 lights, I am seriously interested in having this mod done, Can someone reply or PM me with E1320's contact, I'd greatly appreciate it !!!
Looking forward to learning alot from you fine peeps!!!!
You can contact E1320 easiest by PM. (E1320 is his user name)
While this is a great mod be warned this did burn out the switch in mine and it also causes thermal throttling to kick in after a minute or 2 causing it to only run on low.
Excuse my noobiness, but what if I went with the 7A Driver board:
http://kaidomain.com/product/Details.S020146
Would this overdrive the LED to a still very noticeable throw output of this X6, yet not get into the problem of thermal kick-down/throttling???
(still reading&learning from you guys)
Yep, that should work. However when installing the driver it would be a good idea to pot the driver as I think the driver itself is generating the heat that causes thermal throttling.