TS11 is great, but it is a lot bigger than a TS10:
Yes, you’re right – the TS11 head is more than twice the diameter of the TS10 head. But then, it’s still small in length and easy to holster or stick in a jacket pocket. Its a far more usable thrower.
I’ve not owned an FW1A, but it looks like what’s being proposed for the TS10 variant – single LED with reflector. Is it practical enough to be a useful thrower?
I built a convoy t3 with cslnm1, smooth reflector and 5a driver. Slightly longer than ts10, but not noticable in any pants pocket. It was a useful thrower, could reach 200m. Pretty useless inside 20m though with a very small hotspot. A ts10 host would be a lot nicer than the T3 IMO.
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For me the TS10 is about the biggest light, both diameter and length, I will carry in a jeans pocket. So IMO it’s not fair to compare it to anything bigger, because I’m not gonna be carrying it.
So if I want a light that throws as far as possible, and fits in my jeans pocket, the options are pretty limited.
I’m slowly working on a custom brass bezel that will allow a TS10 single to use up to 16mm deep x 18mm diameter reflectors/TIRs. LEDs being equal, throwers come down to physics with reflector size (and drive current, of course).
This means if you can get a deeper bezel on a TS10 single, it could throw nearly as far as say an S2+. Caveats being the TS10 would have a slightly smaller diameter reflector, and a 14500 can’t compete with an 18650 (but a 14500 is at least closer to an S2+ in 18350 format).
Wouldn’t anyone want a light the size of a TS10, that fits in your jeans pocket, and can throw nearly as far as a much bigger S2+?
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Challenge accepted 
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AeroLux just posted this outstanding TS1AA mod on Reddit:
pic is a link 
Maybe Wurkkos will offer one.
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Wow that’s nice looking. I might just have to try that TIR with my reflector W2 TS10
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Looking good, but he should add the aux back in. I have one SFT40 5000K emitter left and can’t decide what to do with it. I think the answer is to put it in my TS10 single and order more LEDs.
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I wonder how quickly an SFT40 modded TS10 steps down the output due to heat?
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I made a brass head for my TS10 single. Uses ~13mm height TIRs (like for S2+) with the diameter slightly shaved. This is a clear 10 degree, I think. W2 but may switch to SFT40 5000k. Red aux ring.
Should throw farther than the SP40 TIR that was in there previously.
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Probably 5 seconds LOL.
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Looks like a laser pointer.
Iron man
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I love this. Great job.
Ok I have a few mods I did over the last few weeks
to share, thanks to @MasterNate for designing and selling me the MCPCBs.
First, a funky TiTS10 Mule:
I modified the MCPCB slightly to accomodate 2 0603 aux LEDs (glued on with UV resin and then connected up using 30AWG teflon wires). To connect the CSPs I carefully scraped away the soldermask over the respective traces and soldered directly with 28AWG silicone wire - the traces are thin enough that there’s not much point using thicker wire even at 100% FET. The driver used is a standard TS10 driver.
The spacer is made of some 15mm square copper shims soldered together with the help of a hotplate. Total height of them was 3mm but I think 2mm would be a better choice for a lens.
Tintmix of 5700K and 3000K Samsung LH181Bs (I’m an idiot and accidentally ordered 70CRI 5700K ones because Digikey didn’t list the correct values). Opple says around 4200K and 85CRI which is acceptable since it also has a very rosy tint.
I currently have a really crude lens made of UV resin as I didn’t measure the height of the spacer correctly and the bezel is almost flush with the top of the PCB. Once some 17mm lenses arrive I’ll probably sand down the spacer to fit it. (Took this image with a test run of an older group of LH181Bs and the stock 6000K emitters before reflowing the new ones on)
The aux LEDs actually look really pretty but they kinda make an angry eyes face with on high.
Now some with more traditional high power LEDs:
One contains 3 519a 5700K DD measuring around 4000K through the optics. Red aux
The other has 3 W1 with the RGB aux board on top.
0402 LEDs aren’t the easiest to hand solder and I discovered that the hard way after spending nearly an hour on this xd
Here’s them side by side on a low ramp level.
Now with the TIR, I locked the white balance to the 519a so the W1 ended up way greener than it is IRL
The RGB aux looks really cool but the colours don’t mix as well as I’d like. I might dollop some UV resin over the LEDs and sand it to diffuse them a bit more, and the green channel could do with a bit more series resistance.
The W1 is definitely throwier and gets just as hot as the 519a. Both still out-candela the stock emitters.
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Awesome mods! I appreciate all the pics.
I had enough trouble soldering 0603, I can’t imagine 0402. What worked for me was reflowing them rather than hand soldering. I used a toothpick to dab a tiny amount of solder paste on the pads. I then carefully placed the LEDs and the paste held them in place until heating.
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This is what I do for the eighteen 0402 leds that go on a Lume1 Tri-LED Aux PCB.
The shelf of my TS10 TiCu was about 0.4mm too tall so I used a Dremmel to reduce the thickness of the MCPCB by about 0.3mm:
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thats a lot of effort, impressed you got a flat result with a dremmel
did you grind down the mcpcb with all the LEDs installed on the other side, or did you do a full remove and reflow?
fwiw, the bezel gap does not affect water resistance, but I agree it is a cosmetically larger gap than the other joints on the light and it would be good if Wurkkos would adjust the shelf lower, so the optic does not sit so proud.
the bezel gap is the most common complaint about the Ti models. It is definitely larger than on the Aluminium models… would be great if Wurkkos reduces the shelf height…
Very helpful of you to share the measurements… congrats on getting the gap reduced.
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