【TS10V2 Al available】Wurkkos "slender waist" TS10v2 aluminum version available with black,green,orange

Domed emitters (519 etc) looks like crap in SMO reflectors.
Only SFT’s and W1/2 (flat, no dome) can look good in this situation. I don’t think Wurkkos will go that route…
OP is somehow good deal in this small package.

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I’ve had decent luck with Nichia domed emitters (especially compared to Cree), something special about the phosphor and dome material.

Either way, I think offering two versions would satisfy 90% of the people interested in one, with a max-intensity smooth and a high-CRI orange peel version. They already do that sort of thing normally, with the different CCT and color options of the regular TS10.

The remaining 10% probably want something special enough that they’d have to get it modded, or do it themselves.

Sadly the OP reflector loses quite a bit of throw if using a small-die emitter like the W1 or W2, because they’re very sensitive to focusing.

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As I already commented on Reddit, my vote is for TIR combined with round die LED.

These LEDs can be made to spec, at pretty much any CCT, and at high CRI, with great results (Yinding 5050 6500K 95 CRI and the FFL505 3500K 95 CRI for instance), they have a good ratio between light output and intensity versus heat generation, which is important for such a small light, and they are really cheap, which is a must for an inexpensive light like the TS10. The SFT40 is too expensive and it generates too much heat for such a small light.

And TIR because it’s easier to implement aux LEDs with them, no need for complicated designs and special LEDs like it’s needed for aluminium reflector lights, which is also a point for budget oriented products. Size is an important aspect too, and the single TIR doesn’t add much to the length of the light. Also, aux + TIR looks awesome.


Size comparison, single vs standard TS10.


Aux comparison, standard vs single.

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  • W1 for maximum throw
  • SFT40 for throwy with higher output (offer it in 6500k and 3000k at least, and preferably 5000k too would be nice)
  • XM-L HI RGB - an RGB main emitter, to take advantage of the new RGB features being worked on in anduril.
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I like this idea as long as the tint is nice. Doesn’t Wurkkos use a custom round die in the TS12? It had issues with being very green but they said they resolved that with later batches (I haven’t seen it myself). The FFL505 has nice tint at low currents but it’s less efficient than even the SFT40 3000K, so it will run hotter.

I have some of the round die, warm LEDs Convoy sells arriving soon. Should be more efficient. I will try one in a TS10.

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Vote for ‘YLX N3535B’ round-die emitter from 2nd batch (with better tint) in classic reflector (SMO).

This emitter has good performance and good color consistency in optics.

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I would love to have both TIR and reflector!
But if I had to choose one, would be a narrow TIR.

Reflector
OP if SFT-40 and 519a
SMO if NM1/PM1

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The last batch had the tint problem solved, and this LED would be an great choice too, but using a 5050 LED would be more interesting because we can swap the SFT40 or the XHP50.3 for maximum hotrod potential, and we can always use a 5050 to 3535 adapter on it if we wanted to swap the 519a on it (a 3535 to 5050 adapter would be suboptimal). And because the 5050 is way more popular i bet it would be even cheaper than the 3535 version they are using in the TS12, and as far as high CRI goes, the 5050 high CRI version can realistically produce about 1000 lumens OTF, which is not that far from what the standard TS10 produces (I’m using the 6500K 95 CRI on my TS10, and it performs about the same as the triple 6000K CSP LEDs in terms of light output and heat generation, but with more throw).

Comparison between stock TS10 and single LED TS10 (Yinding 5050 95 CRI)

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Do you, or anyone else, know how many amps we’re talking about? I think an SFT40 would be underdriven and not reach its potential (but I have a 3000k in one of my TS10 and it looks great).

The LMP W5050SQ3 is what I mentioned in my post above. Funny enough it arrived minutes after I made that post. I quickly threw it in an SC31 to try it out and the tint looks nice enough.

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That is the reason I suggested a 3535 emitter, the stock Wurkkos 14500 is rated to 3A continuous, and an H10 is only 9-10A but will have too much voltage sag to fully drive an SFT40 in a FET light.

Good idea about using the YLX-3535 round-die for the throwy version. I think it would be nice. I haven’t tried it myself, so I went with the usual Osram as my preference, but I’d be fine with either.

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I can’t measure the current directly but based on the light output I’m guessing around 3.5 to 4A with a freshly charged cell with the Yinding LED (stock Wurkkos cell). The LMP W5050SQ3 would pull more current because of the lower Vf.

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I got a couple of the Green versions. I meant to order an Orange and a green, but must have screwed up.
Unfortunately the green I got is not the same as the picture:

It is a more “subdued” green. A bit darker, less vibrant. It is fine, just not what I expected from the picture.
Of course there are many reasons that this could be. Like camera color balance, lighting, and my monitor (though it is calibrated). No big deal, just a comment.

Also, people wanting the new switch. You are not missing anything. The ones on my green versions are not as good as on my Original V1 AL lights. The new one is stiffer and doesn’t have quite as much travel. It works just fine, but I prefer the “feel” of the original.

Beyond that, with channel switching, is there a way to switch the colors? All I can get is red after enabling channel switching.

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Yes
We can enable other colors, by holding the 9H from On, longer. It will cycle through additional RGB colors. When you see one you like, release the hold, and do 1C to enable a new color.

Channel 1 is White
Channel 2 is pure Red,
channel 4 is pure Green,
channel 6 is pure Blue.

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Thanks!!

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Got it! I like your detail and professional answer. Let me feedback to Wurkkos factory now :wink:

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Woo…That’s amazing! But how to make the RGB aux working normal on 14500 reflector lights?

The centering gasket has 4 little holes, for the RGB leds to go through.

It would be a simple modification to an existing design, though it would add an extra alignment step for assembly.

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The perfect combine. I will vote your opinion :+1:

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The new RGB LED :hushed:, We have never used that. I think we should try once now

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But the combine-reflector is too large and unsuitable. We need to find a new tiny reflector for it.