What did you mod today?

You might be able to get more performance by running a lower current somewhere between 3-5 amps since it will be producing less heat and running at higher efficiency.
I’ve ran mine up to 6A with lots of cooling.

I’ve also killed one at 6-6.5A probably because I didn’t let it warm up long enough at first turn on.

What driver or resistance changes did you make for the D1S?

None, but I only use it for short burst on Turbo… might not be ideal since it’s a FET driver :frowning:
Maybe I should use a lower amp cell

Not a physical mod but still tons of work yesterday.

My wife came to me a few weeks ago needing a light for a very specific use;
Wide even beam with no hot spot
Red light
Single mode
Small host
USB rechargeable

Like most people I try to provide everything my significant other needs but there’s some things we’re just not able to provide like unlimited money or things not in my field of expertise so when a need I can perfectly fulfill comes along you just gotta love that feeling. Yea babe, I got this!

So I ordered up a utorch s1 mini, got it stripped down and got the driver board out then set to work making up a driver for it. This is the end result ordered from oshpark.

Interesting bit- the heart BATT+ pad is a library part, after I drew it with the line tool then cloned it and changed that to bStop for the mask then needed to reposition it a fraction of a mm and all that going to crap cause it just wouldn’t move right as a group I wasn’t doing it on the board again so I just drew up a 5mm heart shaped library pad and now I can drag and drop is as needed lol.

Final specs:
Osram Olson ssl-80 in the deeper of the red nm choices
7135x2 with modified Tom E “E-switch 13” FW. Single mode medium with the hidden strobe replaced with hidden max (press hold).
Sub 16mm custom driver design one off for my wife
Uses a gigantic 3x5mm switch that I have a million of.
No thermals on the 7135 tabs with solid Cu pours under them for better heat management cause of the low vF of the red LED.

Update: I lost the switch bezel so I made a new one, being that it’s our 6th year married I’ve been incorporating copper into every gift I could and this was no excepting. I feel like this one hit the bullseye (you’ll get the pun in a sec).

Btw this was done with a hand drill, a pair of pliers, a hacksaw and some small files.

380 round, lead drilled out, a tiny sliver cut off.

Ready to fire

I’m talking about much longer runtimes and doing that often.

Not every other overdriven LED will have problems. It depends on how far you overdrive it and how good the heatsinking is.

Nice touch :slight_smile: :+1:

CRX version:

Replace the battery wrap with a printed note. Install acrylic window on the side with an external way to spin the battery.

You continue to amaze ck. Love your work. :+1:

Yesterday the new Osram CSLNM1.TG leds arrived from led4power. Putted in one to my modded Convoy S8 and one into my GT mini. Some pics and beamshots:

Convoy S8, S2+ SMO reflector, AR lens, 3,15A. 9x7135. It makes 573 lumens and 30800 cd.

It is slightly smaller than XP leds

GT mini with Emisar D1S reflector. You can see the beam thinner as going away from light so it need to raise the reflector a bit. Making 219000 cd with unfocused reflector and GA cell to not overdrive the led.

Beautiful… You are not using solder paste for re flowing?

When you mentioned smaller than XP led yes it is smaller than XP-G2 de domed but about same or even bit larger than dedomed XP-E2.

I bought these soldered to MCPCB but I using paste with bare leds. With size I mean the complete led size smaller than XP centering ring cutout. Not the die. :wink:

Got my Astrolux S43 today and of course, it needs to have Anduril!

The bezel can be removed by hand, the MCPCB is held down by 2 screws and after desoldering the MCPCB can be removed.

While I am no subscriber to the motto "the bigger the gob, the better the job" I think we all can agree that this amount may be not really enough.

Removing the button was easy with a pair of tweezers

And now, the whole stack of PCBs can be pushed out.

It is worth noting, that you need to push straight because otherwise the PCB will wedge itself in the threads of the head.

After that, flashing is pretty hard as you cannot use a clip or pogo pins.

But you can use a modified clip to get inbetween the sandwiched PCBs.

My verdict after having the light apart:

  • Not mod friendly
  • Hard do disassemble / reassemble as the PCB likes to get stuck
  • Flimsy switch wires which like to simply snap off
  • Could use more thermal paste
  • (Anduril currently needs workaround so this light can use the 1x7135 channel)

Cree XD16, on VirEnce N119 mcpcb on a Kronos X5.

This emitter was my test led and got slightly burned on the edges of the phosphorus during some max power tests, that’s what the odd color is in the reflection of the die. Even as such it still performs well as well as expected (i.e. nothing to write home about but it’s still cool as hell)

XP-L HI (stock) 29,690kcd
damaged XD16 5700cri 25,700kcd.

I have 2 more 5000k 70cri emitters to play with too.

NovaTac 120T - Triple Nichia 219C 5000K - H17Fx - 18350 - Rv Clicky Sw - 2300lm.

Another awesome mod CRX

Love the triples on small body lights :slight_smile: Awesome mod CRX !

Btw , is there any place to get these Novatac lights at a decent price ? Thanks !

Thanks :+1:
jon_slider is the NovaTac man :wink:

I installed OSRAM KW CSLNM1.TG in SP32A V2.0:

Throw is comparable with C8. Here is the picture with Convoy C8 with CREE XP-L HI V2 5D at 2.7A, SP32A with OSRAM KW CSLNM1.TG at 3A and stock Acebeam EC35 at 3.3A. Around 2.5 metres to a wall:

More details in this post.

Reflowed some more XD16’s onto VR16S1 boards. Man those 1616 LED’s are tiny!!!